Oil pressure light.

   / Oil pressure light. #1  

miramichiguy

New member
Joined
Jul 7, 2003
Messages
8
Location
New Brunswick, Canada
Tractor
Iseki TS1910
Help!!! Was out blowing 2' snow last pm and noticed oil light on. Shut tractor off and checked dip-stick and oil gushed out of the stick hole. Checked rad and coolant level was good. Recent oil change 7 hrs. ago. Where do I go from here? /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif I should add that it was the light on the left (right side of steering column) that came on. I have read in another link that it is possible for a seal to break at the rear of the hydraulic pump and for hydraulic fluid to enter the crankcase. Is this common with the ts 1910?
 
   / Oil pressure light. #2  
Is that the oil pressure lite? If oil is coming out the dipstick you do have a problem.
 
   / Oil pressure light. #3  
After you pull out the dipstick, does oil continue to flow, or does it just gush for a moment? If it blows out for a moment, you could have excessive crankcase pressure caused by blow-by. If it continues to run out and you filled it to the proper level with the oil change, the fluid is being contaminated by something. In that case, I'd drain the oil, pour a sample into a glass jar and see if it separates into different fluids. That may give you a hint of what is going on.

Either way that is a serious problem. Is the oil level in the hydraulic system okay?
 
   / Oil pressure light. #4  
I have a TS1610F that is the same tractor as yours with slightly smaller injectors. I discovered the same type of problem after I purchased my tractor. In my case, the rear cylinder rings were leaking by 38% when I did a cylinder leakdown test (I'm told it must have overheated at one time and the rings lost their tension, since the bore measured almost no wear). Anyway, the symptoms were: oil gushing out of the valve cover breather, and it would gush out of the threaded dip stick opening when I removed the dipstick. This would all happen after about 5-minutes of operation.

In your case, with no oil coming out the breather, I'm not so sure you have the same problem. (A compression or leakdown test would tell for sure). For some reason, these particular Isuzu motors don't have a crankcase breather tube from the crankcase to the valve cover as most other motors do. For that reason, I think the dip stick is threaded into the pan so that normal blowby (which all diesels have) won't get past the dipstick. To conclude, you may not have a problem other than a bad oil pressure sending unit, or you may have an oil pressure (or level) problem which wouldn't necessarily be related to the crankcase pressure. After all, my tractor showed 62-psi pil pressure when I was having the blowby problem. Let us know what you find and if it is the worst (top end rebuild), it's not hard to do on these motors because you just have to pull the head, remove the front drive shaft, and then the oil pan to get to the rods, pistons and hone the cylinders. Good luck.

Bill in CO
 
   / Oil pressure light.
  • Thread Starter
#5  
No, there is no oil coming out of the breather. I will be checking to see if there are two fluid levels when I change the oil tonight and will also check the hydraulic level. If it is too much fluid in the motor, why is the light coming on? I have not lost any power from the engine but shouldn't I if it is blowby? I think that I may have a nervous breakdown before I get home, worrying about all the possibilities!!!!!!! /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif
 
   / Oil pressure light. #6  
Change your oil. Go to a local dealer ship and ask for an oil sample kit, follow the instuctions on th kit and send the analysis off to the lab. (will take a couple of days) If you wish, you could do this every oil change or every other. It will tell you if you have other fluid contaminants in your oil plus it will give you a report and graph on what metals are in your oil, chrome, aluminum etc, this, over a period of time will show you if you have premature wear of certian items i.e. pistion rings. Now back to your dilema, did any other fluid levels go down? The light may have come on because the sensor may have sensed a lack of pressure for a given period of time. Have you restarted the machine and did the light come on and stay on? It does not make sense for the light to come on if you have too much oil as most sensors "sense" low pressure not high and excessive oil would be high pressure. (This is why I prefer guages) Also because you are blowing snow in your Eastern snow storm it could be very well just a coincidence with an electrical problem, wet melting snow that caused the light to come on and when you pulled the dipstick, because your crankcase is pressured up a little bit, it blew a little bit of oil out. If you are not "making oil" (other levels would be going down) then this could be an issue. As I type this another issue comes to mind and that is, what is your engine temperature during all this work, is it running warm, did you have any excessive idle time at a low temperature sometimes when a diesel engine idles exceesivly in cold temperatures (go in for supper) a cylinder or injector might not work properly and you could have washed diesel fuel past your rings and filled your crank case. As you can see there are many possiblities and there a lot of checks that have to be done to ascertain what the problem is if any at all. I will keep checking the postings for your results. Wish you well.
 
   / Oil pressure light.
  • Thread Starter
#7  
Update: Changed oil and there was no seperation into two layers after sitting overnight. Hydraulic fluid level unchanged. Started tractor and no oil light. Let it warm up x 5 min. and started to blow snow... light came back on... let tractor idle x 5 min. and light stayed on... shut tractor off x 10 min. restarted, no oil light...ran it x 3 min at high rpms (no snowblower load) and no light. Is the extra load that I am putting on the engine with the 51" blower somehow causing all this? I will be installing an oil pressure guage later today.. but where on the engine?... as you can tell, by no means am I a diesel mechanic. If someone could tell me <font color="yellow"> </font> where to adapt in a pressure guage I would appreciate it. I sure wish my headache would go away! /forums/images/graemlins/crazy.gif
 
   / Oil pressure light. #8  
Connect your new oil pressure gage at the same location in the right side of the block as the existing pressure sending unit, I think just below and in front of the fuel pump. Buy a Sun mechanical gage with the tubing and get the metric threaded fitting kit that Sun sells as an accessory next to the gages. One of those brass fittings is an exact fit. The whole thing will cost you probably less than $20.00.

Bill iin CO
 
   / Oil pressure light. #9  
I've been thinking some more about this problem. Did you also change the oil filter? If the oil filter becomes blocked, I believe there is an oil filter bypass. I've never had that condition occur so I don't know how it would change the oil pressure.

Add the gauge sounds like a great idea. If the low oil pressure continues, the next thing I'd look into is the oil pickup for the oil pump (that's inside the oil pan). It sounds like either the pickup line may be clogged, blocked, or not below the oil level. Past that, I'd look at the oil pump.

Let's hope its just the oil pressure light! Hang in there!
 
   / Oil pressure light. #10  
Since you just changed oil, was this the first time since you bought your tractor? Apparently from what you say the light comes on under high torque thus causing the oil to splash around more and there is less in the pan or sump. I assume you purchased this unit used and you could have possibly the wrong oil dipstick in your pan. This would mean that under higher RPM you have less oil in the crank case thus less pressure. That is one thought, the other is that the sensor is starting to fail and under harder woking conditions it fails. You could always check the price of a new sensor and just replace that to see if your problem is solved. Unfortunately when you are performing your own mechanical duties "we" all have to "pay" for our trial and error experiences. Beleive me I have spent enough to learn the hard way. Hopefully this helps. /forums/images/graemlins/tongue.gif
 
 
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