Traction Loose Rear Wheels on Iseki TX1410

[Lifeinthehedge]

Has anyone a solution to excess movement of the back wheels on the axles which seems to be caused by wear of the quick release bolts/wheels/axles fitted to this tractor? I have just bought it and was told by the seller he had been advised that tack welding the wheels to the axles would solve it. I'm not too happy about doing that although it's very unlikely I would ever want to remove the wheels except to replace/repair a tyre. The previous owner actually tapped one wheel three times and screwed three bolts through the wheel onto the axle. Not very successful! I haven't tried removing the wheels myself yet.
Otherwise it is a lovely wee tractor

 

[Ilikeurtractor]

That is the nature of that style of wheel attachment. You could have new hubs machined with tighter tolerances but that would be expensive unless you can do it yourself or know someone who can. The other problem with that solution is the axle is probably worn enough that a new hub will not entirely solve the problem. You could put an over-sized sleeve on the shaft and drill the hub to match the sleeve. Again pretty expensive. None of the options are great in my opinion - I guess it depends how much it bothers you or if it's concerning you from a safety standpoint. Later versions of the TX tractors did away with the pinned hubs to the best of my knowledge. I can't imagine most users having to change wheel positions frequently enough to justify a pinned connection. I'd avoid welding the hubs to the axle but if you did you could still remove the wheel from the hub to change a tire.

 

[johneic]

Hi,

Welcome to the forum!

Are the axle holes ruined beyond tapping new holes, or is the fitting that "quick attaches" to the axle ruined, or both? A picture (or a bunch of pictures) would help

 

[Lifeinthehedge]

Hi, thank you both for the replies. I have seen pictures of later models without the pinned hubs so it was probably abandoned as a not so good idea...
I haven't had the wheels off yet to examine the problem. I've used the tractor a few times since and the looseness isn't creating any real problem, I'm just concerned is that it can only get worse. I'll post some pictures when I get more info (have to learn how to do that first.)
Many thanks again.

 

[Ilikeurtractor]

My tractors with the pinned connections seem pretty "wobbly" in the rear at times, but I'm going to leave it alone for now. It doesn't seem to be that big of a concern but I do prefer the solid axle/hubs.

 

[284 International]

I don't own an Iseki, let alone the TX1410. In the photographs I have seen, I cannot tell if there is a tensioning adjustment or not. On my small Yanmar tractors, the sliding hub has a hexagonal bore that slides onto the axle. A pin goes through the hub and axle, locating it and keeping it from sliding in and out. Then, tensioning bolts are adjusted to pull all the slack out of the hub system.



It sounds like this style of system would work, if it is not so equipped, on your machine, and be straightforward to fabricate. It makes more sense to me than welding the hubs onto the axle.

 

[Ilikeurtractor]

That's neat. Sounds like the way to go. I'd imagine those Yanmar hubs and sleeves (if I understand it correctly) might be a little hard to come by but appear to be a good solution if they can be acquired/made reasonably.

 

[284 International]

I don't know if the axles are the same or not; there's a reasonable chance they may be. New hubs are available at Hoye tractor: Yanmar Tractor Parts REAR AXLE HUB ASSEMBLY

I can't tell from his description if something like that has been made onto his current hubs, or if it is drilled for additional pins or bolts.

This system is used on my YM186D, a 15 PTO horsepower machine that has lots of cast iron ballast, filled tires, additional ballast on the tractor, etc, far in excess of that advised in the manual, and I haven't had any wobble in the hub/axle interface. My Kubota B6000 uses it as well.