TX1300F engine questions

[dantnz]

Hi All,

Long time since I've posted on here, but reading the threads - just haven't been able to contribute much.

My TX1300F just won't start in the cold weather, so I'm finally going to have to do something about its compression (lack of) issues. Basically I'm going to have do a valve lap and ring change as a minimum (incl new gaskets, conrod bearings etc), and see what else needs doing when the head is off. Already replaced glow plugs, starter motor.

Thanks to Fxrs55 posts I have some good tip to start with, but I just have a few questions to help me plan the job.

Can I do this without removing the engine from the tractor? Looks like it will be tight to get the oil pan off with the front prop shaft in the way? Just wanted to check that it can be done before I open her up.

Any other tips or other things that should be done at the same time?

Anything to look out for with the injectors while they out?

Dan

 

[dantnz]

Also - anyone got the torque settings for the head bolts - injector bolts etc?

 

[fxrs55]

Hey Dan, you can remove the oil pan without removing the
front drive shaft. Here a few pictures from the repair manual.
I can E-Mail you the manual in pdf format.

 

[dantnz]

Thanks for those pages, that is gold dust!

removed the head for inspection today.

Extremely coked up inside the combustion chamber - as you would expect with low compression. Did a quick check on the vale seats and both exhaust valves leak through badly - would seem to be the source of the compression loss.

As the bores look good and the engine does not burn oil, I'm very tempted to just lap the valve seats and put the head back on. This is my loader tractor and I really need it back in action. At worst it's only going to cost me another head gasket to do the piston rings if I have to.

I know its a shortcut, I may just end up doing the rings anyway. Anyone got any thoughts?

 

[fxrs55]

Can you rock the pistons back and forth a little in the bores?
Take a screw driver and put a little pressure down and then
see if you can move the pistons side to side. If the rings
are stuck you will not see much if any movement. If the
rings are not stuck the pistons should move side to side.
Also, When I did mine after I got the rings loose I removed
them from the pistons. I then got a piece of crocus cloth
and laid the cloth on a flat piece of steel. I then laid each
ring on the cloth and applied a little pressure by hand
and I gently swirled the rings around and that cleaned
them up nicely. I gently honed the cylinders and I reused
the rings. That tractor still runs great today.
If you do hone the cylinders you MUST cover the
crankshaft to protected it from the grit and grime.
I used heavy brown paper and after I was done honing
I flushed the heck out of the cylinders to get all of
the grit out With the crank covered. After I removed
the brown paper I washed the heck out of the
crank using SEA FOAM in a spray can.

 

[fxrs55]

Oh, On this side of the pond a new head gasket is $140 us.
If I were you I would drop the pan and remove the pistons
just to clean and inspect the rings.

 

[fxrs55]

Here is a link to the thread I made about my
journey fixing my TX1300F.



http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/iseki/273164-bolens-g154-iseki-tx1300f.html?highlight=

 

[dantnz]

Thanks for the advice - I've been using your rebuild thread as my main source of reference for some time now!

The pistons do move slightly in the bore, they seem to be sealing quite well. I'm really in two minds whether to take them out or not. Something that nags at me is that there was a lot of coking on the inside of the cylinder walls, it came off real easy, but I still find it strange that the rings wouldn't take this off. The more I think about it the more inclined I am to replace the rings just because I have the engine open and its done then, but it all takes time.

 

[dantnz]

Just another question - did you use a gasket sealant when putting the new head gasket on - I can't quite work out whether the manual is saying to use sealant or not.

 

[Ilikeurtractor]

Usually sealants are not recommended on head gaskets. There are recommendations to retorque the head bolts after a few hours of use though which I would recommend as well since these head gaskets have a tendency to leak around the cooling fluid and oil passages. Applying sealant around these area may prevent the need for a re-torque but a re-torque may prevent a cylinder leak so I'd opt for that (or both).