Am I missing a clutch adjustment rod

[johneic]

My clutch no longer disengages, I have read the three threads here I found to replace it and am comfortable doing it myself. But while reading the threads I noticed what appears to be a clutch adjustment rod that goes at about a 45 degree forward - upward angle, from the clutch pedal towards the engine/bellhousing, on others 1300s-1500s. There is also a little blurb in my owners manual about it.

It is a two cylinder, which is a 1978-81 I believe, G174, rode hard and put away wet ( by POs) but runs good, except for this.

My questions:

1) Am I missing it?
2) Might it make the clutch disengage?

Pics attached,

John

 

[jugtownjohn]

John,
Had to tell from the pics if the rod is missing. the rod is under the drive shaft tunnel and connects to the yoke.
Does appear you are missing the safety start switch.
When I get out to the barn tomorrow I'll take some pics of my G174.

 

[johneic]

Thanks John!

There is no safety start, There is a heavy duty rod/bar that goes under the tractor, it looks strong enough to activate the clutch fingers, but not the rod, though I might have a bent tube/rod coming off of my clutch pedal, like I have seen here?

 

[Ilikeurtractor]

If it did disengage before and now it doesn't and nothing has changed with levers, rods, etc., then it most likely is because the disk has seized in position. If you pop out the rubber plug on the side of the bell housing you can get a putty knife in there between the disk and flywheel to free it up while the clutch pedal is pushed down. Clutches sticking are somewhat common. If you do end up changing the clutch, and at some point you likely will, be sure to put a small amount of grease or anti-seize on the spline so the clutch disk can slide freely.

I've never had to adjust the linkage for the clutches on my TX machines (before or after replacing the clutch disk) and just taking a quick look I don't see anything in the area where you took your pictures that can be adjusted or is different than what you have. There is a rod tucked up underneath the machine which is below the safety switch but mine (on the machine I looked at) isn't adjustable. You wouldn't be able to see it with the pictures you took. There may be something further up or inside that is adjustable but I never had to mess with it.

 

[jugtownjohn]

John,
Attached is a pic of the clutch adj rod viewed from under the tractor.
Also attached are some diagrams form the WSM.
Hope this helps.

 

[johneic]

Thanks John and I like. I am sorry, I wrote imprecisely, it does just barely disengage now where it was fine before, but maybe not? I now have to throttle it as low as it will idle and I can get it into gear. I do have a rod that goes horizontally to the rear differential, I am not sure what function this rod performs. I have OM and SR Manuals. I will try and shoot a video just for sound tonight, rain is coming for most of the next 15 days (MidSouthMidWest, 2017 year of the rains all over).

 

[Ilikeurtractor]

The rod going to the rear is the left brake actuator rod. It connects to the shaft that goes through the hole in the clutch pedal so it looks like it has something to do with the clutch.

 

[johneic]

The rod going to the rear is the left brake actuator rod. It connects to the shaft that goes through the hole in the clutch pedal so it looks like it has something to do with the clutch.

What purpose does a rod serve that goes to the brake area when the clutch is engaged? Brakes are applied when clutch is engaged?

I shot a few videos, first one is on my problem and the other two are about two little solutions I did for my great little guy. 1st video is taking 30 minutes to upload about a 2.20 minute video.

John

 

[johneic]

Here is a 2:24 minute video of my issue.

YouTube

 

[Ilikeurtractor]

The brake shaft rotates independently of the clutch pedal. Have someone else press the left brake pedal and watch the rod going to the brake and you'll see how it works.