pedal on 1910?

[Ron25]

it is on the right when sitting and you use your heel to operate it.

Also I want to change the trans oil. Checked it and it's a tan color. I read to use 90w gear oil, but also seen that GL-5 isn't good if you have brass/bronze bushings. I don't know if there are any in the trans - what does everyone else use in their Iseki?

ron

 

[JJPWAus]

Ron,
The pedal is used to lock the diff.

I am sure others will chip in on the trans oil, be keen to know what has been used, as I have recently changed mine with a local brand and hope I have not introduced a problem. My oil was a nice tan colour as well, the filler cap is not that watertight, I house mine inside now so its not really a problem for me any longer. It also holds quite a few litres so make sure your drain container can handle it, I know I had to do a quick container shuffle /forums/images/graemlins/blush.gif when I did mine.

 

[RobertBrown]

I use sae 80w/90 gear oil, I get at walmart. Is your oil the color of peanut butter? If so you have water in it, and any oil is better that that. I have not heard of a problem with bronze bushings and Gl-5. Iseki recomends sae80w/90. Your tractors transmission holds 2.77 gal. Attached you will find a photo I just took of the specs from under the hood of my Bolens g192, which is an Iseki 1910 2wd.
Hope you can read it

 

[Ron25]

thanks guys,

The WalMart here has the 90w but it's GL-5, in big text on the one gal. size.

Here is one of the threads that got me wondering what to use ..

Shortened Long Link

Think I'm going to try and find something other than GL5 just to be safe.
For sure learnung more about oils and lubes than I care about - lol.

 

[RobertBrown]

You are right about GL5. I don't think it's and issue here (no syncronizers), considering your transmission. It seems that the ideal choice would be Mt-1. See if you agree

What is GL and MT-1 rating?
The gear oil's GL rating as set forth by API measures how well it will perform under extreme pressure. Gear oil is manufactured with anti-wear additives to stop metal surfaces from welding together. The GL rating ranges from 1 to 6. Gear oils rated 1 to 4 are considered anti-wear products, whereas GL 5 and 6 products are for use under extreme pressure.
GL-4
Denotes lubricants intended for axles with spiral bevel gears operating under moderate to severe conditions of speed and load or axles with hypoid gears operating under moderate speeds and loads. These oils may be used in selected manual transmissions and transaxle applications where API MT-1 lubricants are unsuitable.
GL-5
Denotes lubricants intended for gears, particularly hypoid gears, in axles operating under various combinations of high-speed shock loads and low-speed, high-torque conditions. Lubricants qualified under MIL-L-2105D satisfy the requirements of the API GL-5 specification, although the API designation does not require military approval.
MT-1
Denotes lubricants intended for nonsynchronized manual transmissions used in buses and heavy-duty trucks. Lubricants meeting the requirements of API MT-1 provide protection against the combination of thermal degradation, component wear and oil seal deterioration. API MT-1 does not address the performance requirements of synchronized transmissions and transaxles in passenger car and heavy-duty applications.

GL-5 has the following oil performance tests with stringent requirements:
ASTM L-33:
Gear test using differential assembly measuring the resistance to corrosion in the presence of moisture.
ASTM D-6121:
Gear test using complete axle assembly measuring the resistance to gear distress under low-speed, high-torque conditions.
ASTM L-42:
Gear test using complete axle assembly measuring the resistance to gear distress (scoring) under high-speed, shock-load conditions.
ASTM L-60:
Bench test using spur gears measuring oxidation stability.
ASTM D-892:
Bench test measuring foaming tendencies.

Most manufacturers of manual transmissions and transaxles recommend an 80W or 90W GL-4 lubricant. GL-5 gears oils which are required in hypoid differentials are not used in most synchromesh transmissions because the chemicals used to provide the extreme pressure protection can be corrosive to synchronizers, which are commonly made of brass or bronze. Typically, the use of a GL-5 lubricant in a synchromesh transmission will shorten the synchronizer life by one half. The extreme pressure requirements of spur gears and helical gears found in transmissions are not nearly as great as found in rear-wheel drive differentials. A GL-4 lubricant provides adequate protection for most manual transmissions, unless a unique design consideration requires the extra protection of a GL-5.

 

[Ron25]

uugghh - at this point I'm about ready to just dump in some motor oil! lol/jk.

John said the pedal was for the differential - if I read the info in your post right Robert wouldn't you use GL5 for that? Is there another place for that fliud?

>>The extreme pressure requirements of spur gears and helical gears found in transmissions are not nearly as great as found in rear-wheel drive differentials.>>

I just looked and have a qt of gear oil in the shop that I got from AutoZone years ago (it's a 85/140) and it says "API serivce GL5, GL4, GL3".

Robert, what rating did you use from WalMart? Guess I'll look for either MT1 or GL4. I'm going to a tractor dealer tomorrow for a driveshaft and see what oil they sell.

Speaking of the d/s - I also need oil for the Yanmar 1300 tiller I found - would that have brass/bronze fittings?

John - if I recall, you said in another post that the bolts that mount your FEL to the engine housing were 14mm? Is that the same as the ones on the bottom of the axle - and do you know what is the thread is on that bolt?

Also John, stupid question maybe but the diff. is to lock both wheels? To engage it do you just push it when needed, clutch it, stop .. ?

thanks,
Ron

 

[RobertBrown]

Your differential is lubricated from the same reservoir as your transmission. So you use the same for both, it's the same case. I am using a GL-5 and I don't plan on changing it until the scheduled maintenance. I have an f-150 with a manual trans and I will consider avoiding a gl-5 because it it's a synchronized transmission-shift without stopping(bronze synchronizers), thanks for the heads up on that one.
A differential lock is a device that locks your two axels (left and right) together so they both turn at the same rate regardless of the conditions. You would use it when you find that your not moving but one of your wheels is spinning. When you notice this condition engage the clutch and depress the lever with your heel, release the clutch, (you should feel the lock engage) and both axels will turn and if your lucky the tractor will move
You have a hydraulic reservoir under you seat. might want to have a look at it and change the Hyd. fluid. I look for the one that has a John deere spec. I think it's 300 or something like that.
If you hava any trouble seeing that .pdf let me know and I will email you the larger picture I have. This site will not allow you to post a file larger that 1meg or 1000kb.

 

[JJPWAus]

Ron,
The studs in the are standard M12 thread.
I think Robert covered the diff lock operation, only would like to add the following direct from my operation manual.
"Caution"
When travelling on the road, working with heavy loads or working at high speed, Do not lock the differential.
Do not turn the tractor with the differential locked.
Do not engage the lock with the tractor in motion.

Might like to add this is all news to me to /forums/images/graemlins/blush.gif didn't read the whole thing before.

 

[Ron25]

Well, today at the dealer he sells one gear oil, GL1 in 140w. Said the reason for the 140 is because the 90 so lite that they prefer the heavier because it's like the "old" 90w. ?

Other than GL5 this is the only other I've found - I didn't get any but will likely tomorrow since I have to go back that way.

Thanks for all the help ya'll. I would have been lost on the diff. pedal. The thread is a 12mm with .175 if I recall - thanks John.

Now, the driveshaft is giving some problems. Dealer suggested a slip clutch and I agree because it just seems to solid of a connection to the tiller w/o one. The price he gave me was almost $300 for the clutch and about $150 for the d/s. Sounded high to me. Anyone have a link that sells the clutch for less?

Oh, Robert also got some hydraulic oil while at the dealer. JD 303 is the number. Mine "looks" clean but going to change it anyway.

 

[kayssupply]

I would say that is high$$$. Agri Supply 1-800-345-0169 $61. www.Agri-Supply.com