Grading with bucket

nails_n_glue · 08-01-2007, 06:17 AM

Hi all

Here's what I discovered the other day but I am a bit worried JD would not approve.

Prior to putting down a cement slab I needed to excavate 50 - 100mm from an area measuring 9 meters * 6 meters. I had thought about buying a box blade or grader blade but discovered that if I angle the loader bucket (so that loader bucket edge is a close to tractor as possible (obtuse angle)) and lift off front wheels (only just), I could take nice thin shaves off the ground while reversing the tractor. Almost a bit surgical like. The result was a very impressive flat surface almost ready for laying concrete... but the big question is..... Is this all to much for the loader bucket, hydraulics and assembly? Wot doya all think?

Egon · 08-01-2007, 06:20 AM

I back back blade with the loader all the time. Different angles will give different results.

nails_n_glue · 08-01-2007, 06:30 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Egon

I back back blade with the loader all the time. Different angles will give different results.

Do you use float like the manual suggests or do you ride backwards on the bucket to grade?

BamaRob · 08-01-2007, 10:12 AM

This has been discussed at length here before. With the bucket angled as you describe, back-scraping with it is (potentially) putting a LOT of stress on the curl cylinders. If you were to hit an immovable object (top edge of a big root or rock) while doing this, you could certainly do some expensive damage. I'm pretty sure you're correct that JD would frown upon this practice.

But hey, it's your loader and (potentially) your money to spend on repair, so if you're getting the results you want and are comfortable with the risk of damage to your equipment, more power to ya.

Later,

BR

unreconstructed · 08-01-2007, 10:50 AM

I backdrag all the time also, but its just to smooth out the loose stuff. Have not used the angle you describe with the wheels off the ground however. Dont think I would want to chance it on immovable objects.

Z-Michigan · 08-01-2007, 12:13 PM

I do this somewhat often with loose dirt and composted manure. I usually use float setting; if I don't use float, I definitely don't have the front wheels off the ground, and I'm very careful about not hitting anything that will give much resistance. If there's any chance of hitting something that won't budge, do yourself a favor and either use float or use a 3ph implement for the task.

Simpleman922 · 08-01-2007, 01:59 PM

I also have been using my 2210 FEL to grade, however I use the float mode most of the time, it works great!!

flyngti · 08-01-2007, 02:29 PM

I think being careful is the rule of thumb here. I've graded by backblading in non-float position and it's fine. Just don't get greedy and take too much of a bite at once.

gunmaker · 08-01-2007, 05:35 PM

Do it with the toothbar on, it really breaks the soil up fast!

JerryG · 08-01-2007, 06:14 PM

It will bend your bucket cylinders. Most manufactures have something in their owners manuals about back dragging like that. Look at this thread.
http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/a...oader-box.html

08-01-2007, 06:17 AM	#1 (permalink)
nails_n_glue New Member Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: Sunshine Coast, Australia Posts: 22	Grading with bucket Hi all Here's what I discovered the other day but I am a bit worried JD would not approve. Prior to putting down a cement slab I needed to excavate 50 - 100mm from an area measuring 9 meters * 6 meters. I had thought about buying a box blade or grader blade but discovered that if I angle the loader bucket (so that loader bucket edge is a close to tractor as possible (obtuse angle)) and lift off front wheels (only just), I could take nice thin shaves off the ground while reversing the tractor. Almost a bit surgical like. The result was a very impressive flat surface almost ready for laying concrete... but the big question is..... Is this all to much for the loader bucket, hydraulics and assembly? Wot doya all think?

08-01-2007, 06:20 AM	#2 (permalink)
Egon Super Member Join Date: Aug 2001 Location: Nova Scotia, Canada Posts: 9,527	Re: Grading with bucket I back back blade with the loader all the time. Different angles will give different results. __________________ Egon 50 years behind the times Livin in a Worn out skin bag filled with rattlin bones

08-01-2007, 10:12 AM	#4 (permalink)
BamaRob Gold Member Join Date: Aug 2005 Location: Alabama Posts: 456	Re: Grading with bucket This has been discussed at length here before. With the bucket angled as you describe, back-scraping with it is (potentially) putting a LOT of stress on the curl cylinders. If you were to hit an immovable object (top edge of a big root or rock) while doing this, you could certainly do some expensive damage. I'm pretty sure you're correct that JD would frown upon this practice. But hey, it's your loader and (potentially) your money to spend on repair, so if you're getting the results you want and are comfortable with the risk of damage to your equipment, more power to ya. Later, BR __________________ Mahindra 2615 4WD w/ ML106 FEL 5' KK Rotary Kutter 5' KK Boxblade 5' KK-II Tiller 5.5' KK Box Frame Disk KK Middle Buster WR Long Electric Hydraulic Valve Millonzi LD-48 Grapple Ubuntu - The power of open source. On your laptop, desktop and server. Smart. Secure. Easy.

08-01-2007, 10:50 AM	#5 (permalink)
unreconstructed Platinum Member Join Date: Jul 2005 Location: West Texas Posts: 528	Re: Grading with bucket I backdrag all the time also, but its just to smooth out the loose stuff. Have not used the angle you describe with the wheels off the ground however. Dont think I would want to chance it on immovable objects.

08-01-2007, 12:13 PM	#6 (permalink)
Z-Michigan Veteran Member Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: Central Lower Michigan Posts: 1,483	Re: Grading with bucket I do this somewhat often with loose dirt and composted manure. I usually use float setting; if I don't use float, I definitely don't have the front wheels off the ground, and I'm very careful about not hitting anything that will give much resistance. If there's any chance of hitting something that won't budge, do yourself a favor and either use float or use a 3ph implement for the task.

08-01-2007, 01:59 PM	#7 (permalink)
Simpleman922 New Member Join Date: Mar 2005 Posts: 17	Re: Grading with bucket I also have been using my 2210 FEL to grade, however I use the float mode most of the time, it works great!!

08-01-2007, 02:29 PM	#8 (permalink)
flyngti Bronze Member Join Date: Jun 2007 Location: Snohomish County, WA Posts: 90	Re: Grading with bucket I think being careful is the rule of thumb here. I've graded by backblading in non-float position and it's fine. Just don't get greedy and take too much of a bite at once. __________________ John Deere 2320. 200CX FEL, Modern Ag 5' Box Blade, 4' blanket harrow, POS loader forks, HF quick hitch, Mill Creek model 25 manure spreader Craftsman 46" cut lawn tractor w/ trailer

08-01-2007, 05:35 PM	#9 (permalink)
gunmaker Gold Member Join Date: Apr 2006 Location: nw nj Posts: 270	Re: Grading with bucket Do it with the toothbar on, it really breaks the soil up fast! __________________ 2520 w/200cx & JD 61"bucket/toothbar-46 backhoe-54" plow-Woods RB60/84-Woods LR72-Meyers 6ft plow w/JD Quick-Tatch 425 w/54"mmm-54"plow

08-01-2007, 06:14 PM	#10 (permalink)
JerryG Super Member Join Date: Apr 2000 Location: Northwest Arkansas Posts: 6,908	Re: Grading with bucket It will bend your bucket cylinders. Most manufactures have something in their owners manuals about back dragging like that. Look at this thread. http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/a...oader-box.html __________________ My Photos My OTHER Photos

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