Little Help With 4410 Axle Seal Repair

[VTHokieJD]

Originally Posted by AKfish

Good post! Great detail and it just warms my DIYer heart!

Funny squiggle where the suspected crack may be... could it be poor machining?

I've never seen cracks like that --- with rounded loops (squiggles). But the closeups are a bit out of focus.

AKfish

The photos do not catch the detail very well. Running around the most of the shaft in the middle of the squiggles, there is what appears to be a thin crack. Can catch it very lightly with my fingernail too. I don't know if its poor machining... doesn't seem uniform enough for that

[CATMAN]

If you don't find your sealed bearing, has anyone mentioned to you about a "speedy sleeve" for that old seal area, so the new seal will have a smooth surface to ride on. I would think JD or NAPA should be able to help you out with the correct size of "speedy sleeve". I recommend you buy the style/part number that comes with the "sleeve installer" along with the sleeve itself. Note: Even with the sleeve installer, you may still need to slide the correct size of pipe over the axle shaft so you can tap the "speedy sleeve" onto that sealing area. You must try a tap it evenly onto that area for a good, smooth fit.

[VTHokieJD]

Thanks for the tip. I'll definitely look into that if the sealed bearing idea doesn't work out.

[AKfish]

I just gotta ask... if you think that there might be a stress crack or if there's a machining irregularity that might be a part of the seal failure problem --- why not buy a new axle shaft?

I know that Deere places a high premium on their parts --- but, what's it gonna cost $100; maybe a bit more? Your time is worth somethin' and not havin' to do it all over again in another 6 months has gotta be worth somethin' to ya'?

Never mind that if you have a catastrophic failure under power --- your cost could escalate way beyond what any of us might begin to recognize at this time!

Keep those pics comin' --- can't wait to see how it all comes together!

AKfish

[vic4news]

Originally Posted by CurlyDave

2. We compared the head & broken section of the bolt with the thickness of the hub, and the bolt broke off almost at the base of the hub. This means removal of the hub will be easy, but I am really worried about getting the broken section of the bolt out of the housing. There is nothing to grab, so it looks like easy-out time, and I have never had a lot of success with drilling a hole in a broken bolt.

Trying to get the hole anywhere near centered is very difficult. The broken section is never flat, and it is work-hardened to the point where getting the drill bit to bite into it before the bit has walked over the the edge of the bolt is very challenging.

Any good ideas?

I've had good luck using a drill bit that is almost as big as the original bolt. One that just fits in the hole. It takes a while, but drills straight and often doesn't even mess up the threads. I've never tried it with a left hand bit, but that sounds like an excellent idea.

If you can weld, I know that bolts that are broken off in the hole can be built up with weld, and then a nut welded to them. If I were to try this myself, I'd drill a hole in a new bolt and thread this in to protect the threads and weld through the hole in the bolt. Good welders don't need to do this and can build up a weld without messing up the original threads.

Vic

[VTHokieJD]

Picked up the sealed roller bearing today from Philadelphia Ball and Roller Bearing Co today in Wilminton, DE. Must be a very standard size, the guy looked at it for a second and came back with the sealed replacement. I don't know how roller bearings are marked for sizes, but there was a four digit number on the side of the original, and the sealed bearing has the same four digit number on it too.... 6126 or something like that, don't have it near me at the moment. Cost me about $77, but I'm still way under what it cost the JD dealer to replace the first side. I'm thinking of putting the seal on as well. I realize that it will go bad if the sealed bearing idea works because the seal will stay dry... but I figure it can act as a dust shield, also help prevent muddy water getting in there. And if the sealed bearing idea doesn't work right away the seal will be there to stop the leak. I don't know... still thinking of how to go about it!

[VTHokieJD]

Just as an update, finally got everything pressed back together and was back to work on the 4410 this past weekend. I rechecked the bearing number and it was 6212, not what I had in the previous post. I updated the page I made with some new pics, shows the bearings side by side. Used casing sealant on the inside and outside of the bearing, and also on the flat surface next to the seal. I did install a new seal, but my intent is that it will act as a dust shield and stop dirt, mud, and water from getting into the inside. We'll see how it works... can't be any worse than replacing axle seals every couple of years!! I'll try to update the link a little more when I find some time... so far I've been doing it rather quickly, but I think the important information gets across.
JD 4410 MFWD Axle Seal Replacement