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#1 (permalink) |
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Bronze Member
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Alaska
Posts: 98
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I have a 2520 with 200CX and 46BH. I leave the hoe off and usually keep the I-Match on. I have approx 1/2 mile of trails to mow that are raked smooth, but have some turns, bumps and hills. Becuase of our rainfall and long summer days, I will need to mow every 4-5 days.
I was thinking that a rear finish mower might be a pain in the maneuverability category, but be a plus for ease of hook up. If I went with a 62D, what is the final verdict on ease of hook up and release of the deck? Your recommendations. |
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#2 (permalink) |
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Member
Join Date: May 2008
Posts: 41
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I timed my self from the time I get off the tractor to backing off the 62D it took me about 2 minutes if i'm not trying to hurry.
I did it in under a minute once time to see if i could. kinda pointless i know. Putting back on is about 2 minutes as well.
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2008 John Deere 2520, 200CX FEL, 62inch Ramp on Deck. |
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#3 (permalink) |
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Platinum Member
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You've pretty much got it, RFM is easier to hook up but could have maneuverability issues while the MMM is easier to maneuver in the curves but you'll need to remove both it and the mounting frame before you mount your BH.
An RFM is actually a bit easier to get into some tight spaces, there are a few "alleys" in my yard where backing a RFM up to the tree would get me closer than the MMM can. The 62D is not too bad to get on and off, just drive over it and you can use the 3PH to move it around. Removing the mounting frame is a few pins and four bolts, but you only need to do that if you want to mount the backhoe. Still, unmounting the RFM from an iMatch is probably much faster. Depending on the nature of your trails, you may also want to look at a 4' rotary cutter, the 2520 should be able to easily handle a 5' but the 4; would be more maneuverable. The rotary cutter will last much longer for trail work since it can survive rock and stump strikes much better, but you'll get a rougher cut.
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Thanks, Jeff JD 2520, 62D OnRamp MMM with MCS, 200CX Loader with 53" bucket and forks, RT1250 tiller, DR PTO Chipper/Shredder, iMatch/Pat's EZ Change, 46 BH, Top-N-Tilt |
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#4 (permalink) |
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Bronze Member
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Alaska
Posts: 98
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Thx for the replies.
I thought about the rotary cutter too. I've never acutally seen grass cut with one so I'm not sure how smooth it looks when done. My "trails," despite being steep in some places and having some turns are quite smooth. I dug all the stumps out of the way and box bladed the whole thing with my Kubota. I just raked in some grass seed into the native soils and threw out some fertilizer. I would like a semi-finished look. Ref: Removing the pins & bolts from the 62D mounting kit - is that a 5-10 minute deal or a tight spot/impossible to reach/never quick right/knuckle banger nighmare job. Also, would you recommend the fancier lift control that I saw discussed in other posts? |
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#5 (permalink) |
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Bronze Member
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Alaska
Posts: 98
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Thx for the replies.
I thought about the rotary cutter too. I've never acutally seen grass cut with one so I'm not sure how smooth it looks when done. My "trails," despite being steep in some places and having some turns are quite smooth. I dug all the stumps out of the way and box bladed the whole thing with my Kubota. I just raked in some grass seed into the native soils and threw out some fertilizer. I would like a semi-finished look. Ref: Removing the pins & bolts from the 62D mounting kit - is that a 5-10 minute deal or a tight spot/impossible to reach/never quick right/knuckle banger nighmare job. Also, would you recommend the fancier lift control that I saw discussed in other posts? |
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#6 (permalink) |
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Gold Member
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Missouri
Posts: 428
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Since your trails are well groomed and clean, this may not be an issue for you, but I also like the fact that I can raise my RFM up high enough to clear obstacles (stumps, rocks, etc.) that I'd have to go around if I had the MMM on.
As for ease of attachment/detachment, I'd give the edge to the rear mower, but not by much. The 62D is very easy to work with. For cut quality, I like the RFM better because it seems to follow the terrain better. Also, I like having the noise and clippings farther behind the tractor. I don't have to clean my grille (or myself) off nearly as often with the RFM. Finally, the 2520 handles a 72 inch RFM fairly well, so you can get quite a bit of mower beyond the rear tires for trimming under/against trees and bushes and such that you are mowing near. As mentioned previously, it is handy to be able to back under trees as well.
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Runner |
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#7 (permalink) |
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Platinum Member
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A while ago I put together a post describing the 62D frame removal, if you've got a clean, dry place to park the tractor it's not a tough job at all. The bolts are fairly easy to access but they do require lying down under the tractor. Takes me longer to remove the 3PH arms to install the backhoe than to remove the mower and mounting frame.
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Thanks, Jeff JD 2520, 62D OnRamp MMM with MCS, 200CX Loader with 53" bucket and forks, RT1250 tiller, DR PTO Chipper/Shredder, iMatch/Pat's EZ Change, 46 BH, Top-N-Tilt |
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#8 (permalink) |
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Gold Member
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: WI
Posts: 306
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My rear flail mower cuts grass real well, especially stuff thats 4 feet tall. It also likes to eat 2 inch brush, so thats a plus!
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JD 2520 --- FEL, I-Match, LX4 Rotary Cutter, DR Brush Chipper, Ballast Box, 71 Flex Planter! |
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#9 (permalink) |
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Veteran Member
Join Date: Dec 2001
Posts: 2,337
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I was also going to suggest a flail mower also. Here is a link to a long discussion on Flails. I have both a Flail and a MMM, so I have two options.
http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/a...il-mowers.html
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Nuru JD 3520 ![]() |
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