John deere 14t owners

[BryanM]

I am looking to buy a baler to bale 5 to 12 acres. I have come across a few but need some work. I am in experienced at baling and balers but am pretty handy when I choose to be. I have come across a 14t JD baler that has an intel slip clutch bad. what the heck is that and is it worth fixing or buying as a parts machine?
What is a decent price on a operational 14t JD baler? Ball park. I know thats a rough question to field with out seeing but if you could try would apreciate Thanks

 

[Robert_in_NY]

Anytime I am curious about "ballpark" prices on a particular piece of machinery I go to New & Used farm equipment, tractors, combines, and other used and new machinery by Fastline Publications and see what the dealers are charging, location and condition. Location has a big part in how some items are priced but for ball park prices Fastline is a good place to visit.

I forgot to add, balers are a lot of fun to work on when you don't know much about them. The way they are put together and how they work you feel like a kid taking apart the toy to see what makes it go. I have fun working on my baler as I learn more and more every time I turn the wrench.

 

[flusher]

I am looking to buy a baler to bale 5 to 12 acres. I have come across a few but need some work. I am in experienced at baling and balers but am pretty handy when I choose to be. I have come across a 14t JD baler that has an intel slip clutch bad. what the heck is that and is it worth fixing or buying as a parts machine?
What is a decent price on a operational 14t JD baler? Ball park. I know thats a rough question to field with out seeing but if you could try would apreciate Thanks

You're lucky to find a 14T. Wish I could be so fortunate.

My JD 214 baler manual shows several slip clutches in the baler:

There's a slip clutch on the pickup drive sprocket that prevents damage to the pickup.

There's an overrunning clutch and a slip clutch on the main pto drive shaft.

There's a slip clutch in the flywheel.

There's another slip clutch in the auger.

I think the 214T is a follow-on to the 14T, but I could be mistaken.

 

[farmerjim]

if you can pick up a 14t at a good price and the only issue is the slip clutch i think it would be worth it. it may take some time/work to fix it if you have never had to wrench on a baler b4 ,but it would be good to do and you will learn a lot. i have a 24t which is the step up from a 14 t and everytime i work on it i lean something else, previous to that we had a 14t and put about 800-1k bales per season on it. is that 14t pto driven or does it have a ponymotor? either way its a great baler and will last awhile if its in good cond. check out tractor house for some insight on prices. goodluck jim

 

[zzvyb6]

14T has a rotary slip clutch on pto main drive just before flywheel/crank gearbox. Its a TSC type of part if you have to replace it. (throw some car brake lining in there if its all come out). If springs are all rusted and shot, new springs from TSC, too. Some also had an optional slip clutch at the pickup tine drive. The auger and flywheel have shear pins, not slip clutches. There is also a needle brake which has brake lining material on it, it slips all the time when the needles are extracted from the bale chamber at every bale cycle.

In these parts a 14T goes from $500 to 1200 in twine. I just saw one for sale with a JD kicker pan on the back end for $1500. They had thrown a pulleyed flywheel on it to turn the hydraulic pump.

 

[BryanM]

Just for kicks how big of a trailer due I need to get a 14t home. Its probably a 3hr drive so towing it home would be hard.

I own a Landscaping trailer 14ft long and 7ft wide would that be big enough its a tandem rated 7000lbs. Just weighing my options

 

[zzvyb6]

2 options:

 

[BryanM]

Dont get ya ZZ ( 2 options )? Would it fit on a trailer like mine?

 

[zzvyb6]

Not sure what happened there.

first option is to park it diagonal on the trailer with hitch in retracted position. I'd block up axle to keep tires and wheel bearings from getting abused. Maybe you could use a few planks and a ditch to get this done

2nd option is to remove driveline and tongue and lift it on 90 degrees to trailer with a loader. Or roll it on from the side and remove parts (including wagon hitch and bale chute(s). Much heavier on crank side than auger side, although my elCheapo Sears car jack easily lifts it when necessary to change a tire). That reminds me to put a tube in the plunger side tire (its tube type but I didn't put a tube in it).

Come back when you get it home, I'm pretyy familiar with this machine, including how to reset it if you want to use plastic instead of sisal or vice versa. Just play with it by running the tractor at idle with no string in it and no hay in it. Trip the knotter manually and watch it all happen in slow motion. There's a guy who sells manuals and a parts book on eBay. This is a very good thing to have.

 

[Robert_in_NY]

If you have a spare tire you might find it is quicker to just pull the baler home (stopping along the way to make sure the bearings are not heating up too much).

I was faced with this decision but opted to find a baler closer to home. By the time you dismantle have the baler, block everything up and strap it down, bring it home and put it back together you will probably have as much if not more time invested in it. If you just drop a pin in it and pull it home you only have to worry about tires but hopefully they are in good shape, if not stop at a tractor shop or tire dealer and see if they have new tires for it. Or keep looking and hopefully you will find one close to home.