My 2355 needs some engine work and I am going to split the tractor and get the engine rebuilt. Looking for any advise or ideas as I have never split a tractor before. Done a few trucks and cars but never a tractor. Also since it's going to be split any other things I should look at. The clutch was replaced last year by the dealer. Thanks for any help and advise.
Splitting a 2355
- Thread starter jodyk
- Start date
Zebrafive
Super Member
First thing to do is put wood wedges between the front axle and the frame so the front half will not tip after the tractor is split.
I made a splitting stand to bolt to the rear side plate mounts. I put a single pivoting all steel wheel on it that I could adjust the height on. I used a floor jack under the rear half of the tractor, foward of the rear tires. I put a jack stand under the drawbar just incase it wanted to tip backwards, it did not in my case.
You need to decide where to split, trans from clutch housing or clutch housing from engine. If trans from clutch housing there are bolts hidden under the shift cover.
Determine what sizes your hydraulic lines and brake lines are and buy plugs and caps as need to plug and cap all lines to keep dirt out. I removed the brake lines entirely.
I pulled the wiring from the key and light and switch (everything that goes to the rear).
I blocked the rear tires and moved the front half forward.
Lot of work, they come apart easier than they go back together. Good Luck!:thumbsup:
I made a splitting stand to bolt to the rear side plate mounts. I put a single pivoting all steel wheel on it that I could adjust the height on. I used a floor jack under the rear half of the tractor, foward of the rear tires. I put a jack stand under the drawbar just incase it wanted to tip backwards, it did not in my case.
You need to decide where to split, trans from clutch housing or clutch housing from engine. If trans from clutch housing there are bolts hidden under the shift cover.
Determine what sizes your hydraulic lines and brake lines are and buy plugs and caps as need to plug and cap all lines to keep dirt out. I removed the brake lines entirely.
I pulled the wiring from the key and light and switch (everything that goes to the rear).
I blocked the rear tires and moved the front half forward.
Lot of work, they come apart easier than they go back together. Good Luck!:thumbsup:
Tx Jim
New Member
To R&R engine one needs to split between engine and clutch housing. If one has/builds stands for frt half with an adjustable leg on both sides the wood blocks aren't required at frt axle. Use caution on rejoining to be sure both traction and pto clutches are lined up & splined correctly. Also 2 long guide bolts with the heads removed help alignment.
For some reason I though I would move the back half and keep the front stationary, but Zebrafive suggest the opposite. I am all ears. It would be easier for me to move the front as I am backing it in to the shop. Where would the best break be as I want to completely remove the engine.
beenthere
Super Star Member
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Is the tech manual (CD or paper back) available for your 2355? If so, I'd strongly suggest investing the $75 or so bucks that will outline your project very well.
Zebrafive
Super Member
I would break at engine to clutch housing. You should not need to disconnect wiring to rear.
Since the splitting stand I built has a single wheel I had to wedge both sides of the axle with wood to prevent tipping. If you make a stand for each side as Tx Jim suggests, no need to wedge the front axle. If they have wheels front half should roll forward just fine.
I moved the front half forward since I had a splitting stand with a wheel and the front wheels to roll. Because I came in from the side with a floor jack to support the rear half, the floor jack wheels were sideways to the rear wheels and not condusive to moving. Thats why I did not try and roll back the rear half.
Tx Jim
New Member
Back when I was a JD service manager we used OTC stands that had 2 adjustable legs on the frt and a caster wheel on the rear stand. We left frt sitting still and rolled rear by pushing on rear tire cleats.
Two manual screw jack on the front half. I think the dealer has hydraulic jack on the front. On the jack half there is a long ibeam rectangle frame on 4 casters. A scissor jack screws to the drawbar and a bottle jack under the transmission.
Looks like we're gonna use the front half again on the 4020. The plan is take the front axle off and use the loader bucket with the front half of the splitting stand to support the engine while taking out the hyd pump.