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  1. #1
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    John Deere 2010

    Default John Deere 2010 Back hoe

    My John Deere 2010 Back hoe has air coming out of the air intake. I know it needs to have the injectors rebuilt, but as far as the air coming out the intake is it a form of blow-by or something else?

  2. #2
    Elite Member JasG's Avatar
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    Kubota L3240

    Default Re: John Deere 2010 Back hoe

    Are you sure about that? I've seen where it looked like aircoming out, but it wasn't.

    Is the motor running?

    I've seen this with 2 strokes that one way or another ran backwards. Never seen or heard of it with a 4 stroke engine that was running.

    The only way can think of it happening is a stuck intake valve, maybe. I would think though that any air coming back through that valve though would get sucked through the other cylinders.
    “Government is like a baby. An alimentary canal with a big appetite at one end and no sense of responsibility at the other."


    Ronald Reagan

  3. #3
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    Default Re: John Deere 2010 Back hoe

    Yeah I don't understand it either but when you give it a hit of ether when the engines running to clear it up, it sprays about 50% of it back at ya

  4. #4
    Elite Member Tx Jim's Avatar
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    Default Re: John Deere 2010 Back hoe

    First off ether shouldn't be used a an engine with "glow plugs". Sounds as if an intake valve(s) isn't seating correctly allowing compression into air intake. A compression test will identify if this is true.

  5. #5
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    Default Re: John Deere 2010 Back hoe

    Glow plugs don't work okay I'll give a compression test a try

  6. #6
    Veteran Member
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    Default Re: John Deere 2010 Back hoe

    Quote Originally Posted by farmerjon0020 View Post
    Yeah I don't understand it either but when you give it a hit of ether when the engines running to clear it up, it sprays about 50% of it back at ya
    Using ether is one of the 1st clues. Blown head gaskets, cracked pistons, broken rings, crushed ring grooves, bent rods, damaged rod bearings are just a start. Valves and seats could also be damaged by the pressure spikes which can exceed 3 to 4 times full load combustion chamber pressures. Use a block heater and/or glow plugs but leave that stupid ether alone.

  7. #7
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    John Deere 2010

    Default Re: John Deere 2010 Back hoe

    Glow plug don't light other wise i would, and its parked out in the middle of a field most of the time don't have a extension cord that long to use the block heater, I know the ether is bad for it sadly its the only way to get it to fire up or yull sit there all day cranking the darn thing. I let it sit for a few secs before i crank it up after the shot of ether so it doesn't bang around that bad

  8. #8
    Silver Member
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    JD 1520

    Default Re: John Deere 2010 Back hoe

    ether is ok on many deeres as they come with ether start systems. My 1520 is very tiered but a shot of ether and she cranks right up no matter the temp. I have new pistons/ liners but as long as it will start im in no hurry to rebuild .
    " If I`m curt with you its because time is a factor." "If my helps not appreciated lots of luck gentlemen."

  9. #9
    Elite Member Tx Jim's Avatar
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    Default Re: John Deere 2010 Back hoe

    Brimstone10x
    Utilizing a factory ether starting aid is "much better" way of using ether than spraying in air intake. Ether starting aid has a small orifice to help limit the amount of ether that engine is exposed to rather than an overdose.

  10. #10
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    Default Re: John Deere 2010 Back hoe

    Quote Originally Posted by Brimstone10x View Post
    ether is ok on many deeres as they come with ether start systems. My 1520 is very tiered but a shot of ether and she cranks right up no matter the temp. I have new pistons/ liners but as long as it will start im in no hurry to rebuild .
    The factory ether assist is for emergency use for when the block heater either doesn't have enough time to pre-warm the engine. Or if caught in the middle of nowhere without power. If there is a choice to use ether or a block heater. The operator is foolish to use ether. A pre-warmed engine suffers less cold start wear too.

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