JD 2040 clutch problems

[dugndeep]

Yes I was,I had it in low forward and the gearshift in 3 and was pushing in the clutch and letting it roll backwards and then putting the blade down and pulling back up the hill again.

 

[Verticaltrx]

Clutch pedal adjustment is right,free play is right,I did find a little piece of clutch lining just a little piece though.I just can't believe the JD prices.$430 for the drive clutch,aftermarket is $230.Jd pilot bearing is $22 and aftermarket is $9.I've had it apart once before to replace the pilot bearing,that was about 15-16 years ago.This is a 1977 model bought brand new in the spring of 1978.It's been a good tractor,I've replaced the water pump and the pilot bearing and that is it,nothing else has ever gone wrong with it.

For a job like that I would definitely spend the money on genuine JD parts. The others maybe sub-par and you don't want to have to split it a second time. I've put aftermarket clutches in things before and some of them were real grabby and another one failed after a couple years. From now on it's OEM parts only for me.

 

[jd110]

Yes I was,I had it in low forward and the gearshift in 3 and was pushing in the clutch and letting it roll backwards and then putting the blade down and pulling back up the hill again.

In the future, it is best to put one gearshift in neutral before drifting. That can prevent a clutch disk failure like that. I personally use the 1 -2- 3- 4 lever, but either one would work.

 

[dugndeep]

Well I found my problem,clutch disk was wore out.Some of the rivets are missing and the pads are just wore out.It lasted 36 years,pretty good by my accounts.Pilot bearing was not smooth rolling either.Replace that too.Got lucky because the flywheel plate & the clutch plate had no rivet wear marks in them,still smooth on both.

 

[dugndeep]

More pictures.My biggest problem was the water temperature sending unit.I think the last picture is it.I sprayed PB blaster on it and let it set all night.Broke a 17 mm wrench trying to bend it a little in a vice so it would fit in there and clear the top of the exhaust manifold.Nothing left to do now but buying parts and putting it back together.

 

[dugndeep]

I hear you on genuine parts.Tractor Joe's has the clutch disk for $88 dollars but the original clutch lasted 36 years and cost $430 but that's the one I'm going back with.

 

[dugndeep]

Appears genuine JD clutch disk is not available anymore so had to settle for a substitute which cost $116.Pilot bearing is still available and that cost $22 and while I was at it I got a new oil pressure sending unit for $22,freight was $25 so it cost me less than $200.

 

[dugndeep]

Got it all back together yesterday,took garden hose and washed the radiator out good before I put the hood back on.I'm going to flush the radiator out it before spring is over and get ready for the hot summer and mowing and bush hogging.Took me an hour or so to get the drive shaft to go into the pilot bearing.Was a real pain in the butt.I had to raise the jacks up and down till it finally slid in.I sanded off the battery tray good and painted it Saturday so it could dry overnight before I put the 2 batteries back in.Clutch is a little tight but will wear in.I don't know whether I'm going to put the chains back on or not,hopefully the majority of the ice and snow this year is over.

 

[dugndeep]

Didn't really care for the new clutch disk I got at the JD dealership,the genuine disk I took off was a solid metal hub all the way out to the edge as to where the aftermarket uses rivets to hold the pads to the center hub.I tried to download a picture but couldn't.

 

[dugndeep]

I noticed I was missing 2 little clamps that go around a smaller hydraulic line from looking at the parts schematic.I still had 2 on back toward the transmission so I took 1 off to have something to go by and welded up 2 to replace the 2 missing.I took a 1" piece of 3/8" pipe and cut it in half and then welded a tab on it for the bolt to go thru.I then painted them JD green to prevent rusting.