NEW JOHN DEERE SUB COMPACT

[JohnnyD2320]

Hi, We have the 2320 and currently there is about 140 hours on the machine.
We have been using if for mowing, backhoe work and box blade work since it was purchased as well as loader snow removal. I am amazed at how well built the unit is and how easy it is to remove the backhoe, deck and loader. The 3 pt attachments are another matter, but I see attachments to make that easier as well.
One of the things that drew my Dad and I to this machine was that it had better ground clearance than the 2305 and the fact that you can have the MMM deck off and backhoe on in about 10 minutes. Faster if you really practiced or needed to. As stated above you do not need to remove the MMM subframe to put the backhoe on.
It was mentioned that the hydraulics are slow on the loader. I have noticed that mine seem to be slower than they where, or so it seems. I did everything at and idle in the begining and now kick her up a bit to git-r-done. Even a slight increase in the RPM's gives you a much more responsive bucket. I am continually amazed at the projects that can be accomplished with the right equipment. Whatever you decide, I do not think you will be dissapointed with the 2320. With 140 hours since January, I cannot find anything wrong with this machine.

 

[Mackinac Joe]

I have 50 hours on my 2320. My uses are finish mowing (62" MMM, nearly two acres), maintaining and shaping trails in the woods, dragging medium logs and hauling firewood, garden and small livestock FEL work, light bush hogging, and snow plowing (Michigan winters).

Here are some things that caused me to choose the 2320 over the 2305 and 2520:

* about a foot of ground clearance
* not quite as heavy as 2520 (important to me for lawn mowing)
* hydraulic speed is fine for my uses
* position control 3ph
* independent rear brakes
* easy mower height adjustment
* 62D MMM, 200CX FEL, and 54" angling front blade with quick hitch are amazingly easy to mount and unmount
* 3PH implements do not interfere with rear tires (like I've heard is a problem with some 2520 setups)

The bigger engine and more robust hydraulics on the 2520 give it more ability for certain tasks. In the end I decided that the 2320's power was enough for and the 2320's conveniences matched or surpassed those of the 2520. The 2320 was about $2k less than the 2520.

If I had anticipated backhoe use, I MIGHT have chosen the 2520 for the hydraulics. (I hear there may be some interference problems with the backhoe subframe and some other implement mounts.)

My unscientific impression is that the 2320 is the least popular of the three (2305, 2320, 2520). If that's true, maybe the other two tractors might get better support from Deere over the years.

After 50 hours, I am quite happy with the 2320 choice. It's performed flawlessly.

Joe

 

[Runner]

Here is my (admittedly, somewhat warped) decision process that led to my buying a JD2520:

First, I have 6 acres, two of which is finish mowed, four is rotary cut, all of which is on fairly steep hills with lots of side slopes. Also, 300 feet or so of gravel drive to maintain and plow in the winter.

What brand CUT to buy? I had no prior CUT experience, however, I have owned a JD lawn tractor for the last 20 years that delivered exellent, reliable service, with no mechanical problems. Also, there is a JD dealer within 4 miles of my house, whereas the nearest dealer for another make (Kubota) is about 15 miles away. So, I decided on JD.

What model? I knew I didn't need a very large tractor and that my primary task was finish mowing, so, the first instinct was JD2305. However, the largest rotary cutter recommended for the 2305 was 4 foot, which I thought to be slightly undersized for the four acres. Also, position control seemed like a good deal for the rear implements. So, the decision was made to go to either the 2320/2520 for the bigger cutter and position control.

From there, I used my "boat-buyer's mentality" to make the final choice, i.e., get the most horsepower you can in a given machine and you won't be disappointed.

Decision - 2520

I have the 200CX with 61 inch bucket and recommend it. I have 120lbs of wheel weights on each rear wheel and wish I had more, but only because I have issues getting enough traction on hills. If I had flat property, I would not use extra weights.

Runner

 

[Dirt_Works]

Gents
This is so why this website is on my top 10 lists of all time, spirited discussions that help all of us, to not make a bad decision if someone else already has already paved that road. Orlo thank you for taking my point about the 2305 in context, let's be honest if we all had the money we would have one of everything! Heck I have been wetting my lips over an 110TLB ever since they came out with one; my wife has a consistent statement for me "keep Lookin! Oh and besides her first words at the JD dealer when she seen the 2305 "Oh look at that one, it's cute" Brother that statement doomed it forever for finding a place in my shop!!!!LOL
A couple of things I have discovered since researching these units is why did JD make such a disparity in the hydraulic systems between the 2320 and the 2520 almost 1/2 the capacity, the 2520 has better lift specs than the larger 3203?hey look at their own sheets I couldn't believe it when I first read it. Bottom line is the more fluid you can move the faster you can move more things.
Mower height adjustment I know the 2320 has the knob so it returns to the same height, I assume that the washers on the mower set the height on the 2520? My dealer said that he recommends the hydraulic raise and lower kit for the MMM over the one that runs off the three point hitch,,,,any thoughts? So basically my thought is if you set the height on the mower deck when you lower it, it returns to the height you set, so no inconvenience from the 2320.
I have settled on the bigger loader bucket that has been a consensus from everyone but still thinking on the tractor however leaning toward the 2520 just because of the more robust mechanical features, I have seen one person mention in here that the right side arm on the 3pt rubs his rear tire sometimes anybody else had that problem? I looked on the dealer unit and I could push it in to the tire so I am guessing that is valid, unit has really fat rear tires, which is one reason not worried about the weight on the grass (wont mow with the loader or box blade on) why would I they are too easy to take off!
Thanks again and keep that info coming these thangs arent cheap!

 

[JDFANATIC]

If I'm not mistaken, I thought the new stuff they use (looks like molasses) doesn't rot the rims. The old stuff (Calcium chloride and water and other stuff) will rust the rim if exposed to air. That's why when using Calcium chloride you want to make sure they get filled completely over the rims.

I'd fill them and I'd also go for the 61" bucket.

'Oversize Lawn Tractor' - "Micro Compact' (sniff sniff).. Only kidding.

While the 2305 is physically small, having both a 3720 cab (had a 3320 open) and a 2305 I must say the 2305 is a 'tiny' workhorse. The work you can get out of it for it's size is incredible. It also has respectible PTO power. The hydraulics are slow, but it's got a power to weight ratio higher than any of the Compacts when it's at it's 'working weight'. Sure my 3720 is slick but I'm running a little shy of 6000lbs when I mow my lawn it's a heavy monster (filled tires and I take the bucket off but not the loader frame).. Also mowing you really can't beat the 2305. I've said it before and I'll say it again. I really feel I can finish mow faster with the 2305 than I could with either my 3320 or the 3720 with the 72"MMM - Reason is stability and speed. I mow full out in high on the 2305 (About 9mph) and if I occasionally get up to 7 on my 3720 I'm about to bounce over on my roof). The extra 10" of width doesn't make up for the speed I get on the 2305. I am now running an 84" RFM on the 3720 and think I can now beat the 2305 due to a lot of extra width. (I can run the RFM at 4-7mph - Probably around 5.5-6 most of the time).

Anyway, just wanted to defend the 2305's honor...

One other item that's not obvious, the deck height adjustment on the 72"MMM on the 2520 I believe is that like the 3000 series, a non-marked wing nut with a long lead screw. This is not nearly as nice as the quick adjustment knob on the 2305/2320. You can change heights on the 2305/2320 while mowing if you are careful. You need to stop, get off, raise the deck and 'guess' (or count the number of turns of the turn nut) to adjust that on the others.

One other thing I remember hearing is that if you get a BH (Everyone needs a BH I have a BH6000 on my 2305) I think you have to remove the MMM mounts (not just the deck) to mount the BH on the 2520 (not the 2320). I might be wrong on this but I believe I remember reading this here.

Orlo,

Thanks. I bit my tongue on the small guy's honor. As the brochure states, "these tractors will move mountains one bucket at at time." And Deere hasn't overstated this one bit.

 

[Runner]

Regarding the lower three point arms hitting the tires, I have the iMatch quick hitch and using that solves the problem permanently. I highly recommend a quick hitch of some type. Once it's on there, just tighten the lower arm adjusters until it's centered and that's it.

As for the mower adjustment, I have a rear finish mower, so it rides on it's wheels for the height adjustment. However, it is my understanding that the way you adjust the cutting height on the mid mount mowers (guys who have one, please correct me if I'm wrong) is with a little trial and error. You lower it with the rockshaft control to about where you think it should be, then measure the cutting height and note where the rockshaft control lever is on the graduated scale. Then, you set the "bug" on the rockshaft control on the corresponding number so you can return to that point if you raise the deck.

Runner

 

[Chris2520]

Hydraulics on a 2520 feels like a big tractor.
you will be very happy with it. ...

Chris....

 

[getindirty]

Time for another 2 cents?

I looked at alot of brands. Mahindra, Kioti, Kabota, New Holland, and Case.

If I was to buy the toughest simple tractor cheap and new ... Kioti. That guy can really work. No MMM. No resale.

Bought a 2520 vs 2320. Hyro power. Get the lock up kit for the MMM. I do not have it because I did not know about it before I purchased it. It will keep the MMM out of the dirt without removing the frame (The independent lift would also work). You really do not need the drive over deck unless you switch out the MMM in a rocky or grassy area. The C deck rolls sideways very easily as the D does not move sideways after removal as easy. You can always move the deck with the loader.

Flip the rear tires around for additional clearance of the 3pt hitch (side to side). Tighten the 3 pt turnbuckles to remove the slack. Check the parking brake to make sure it holds before delivery. Mine does not hold well.

2520 mows well enough. It wll not mow up a large grade in high. Low is 4 mph ish. Hydro cycle time on FEL is OK. Not big tractor quick but still good. I spread 40 ton dirt in about 10 hr. Used low to fill the bucket and high to to trasport and spread. This guy moves fast!

JD resale crazy well. Traded up from 2305 with 200 hr and was happy with the deal. And I agree about the engineering. It is very modern and heavy guage steel. Support/service is JD awesome. The number of attachments (FEL, BH, front blade, snow blower, MMM, 3pt) and quality are good.

Have fun shopping.

 

[orlo]

Just to re-inforce what somebody said earlier. The wheels on the MMM aren't for cutting, they are for anti-scalp purposes. On my 3720 (I think the 2520 is the same) the 'stop' is a big wing nut and lead screw that you adjust - You can use the rockshaft also but if you get the ind lift you 'have to' use the screw adjustment since the ind lift cylinder will let the deck lower very fast.

The adjustment is basically drop the deck, check it, lift the deck, screw in or out the screw a little bit (on my 3320 each revolution raises or lowers the deck 1/2 an inch) then go again. Also, with the ind lift (Again on the 3000 series) if you want to 'lock' the deck up you need to raise it with the lift, then turn the screw all the way in to lock it so it doesn't bleed down. On the 2520/2305 you simply lift it, turn the knob and it's locked.

One other thing also, the All three (2305/2320/2520) only take the 47" snowblower (Why the 2520 doesn't take the 59 I don't know - The 790 does with only 1/2hp more).

The 2305 is fine, but the 2320 and the 2520 (2520 the most) are wider than the Snowblower so you'll be running over fresh snow even going straight. Probably not a big issue. (I'm running 66" wide on my 3720 with a 59" blower - Worked fine on a tiny bit of snow but I don't know if I'll be too wide for deep snow - Will take the 6" wheel extenders off if I do).

 

[B8FISH]

Dirt--as far as the independent lift for the MMM--only get it if you KNOW you will have the loader off whenever you mow. The ind lift takes one of the loader circuits (IIRC it was the curl function) and uses it for the lift. I often just took the bucket off to mow (2210) and found this to be problematic on the 2520 (had to remember to take the bucket off first). The 2520 is a great mowing machine (who really needs to go 8+ MPH uphill?).