NEW JOHN DEERE SUB COMPACT

[Chris2520]

Check the parking brake to make sure it holds before delivery. Mine does not hold well.

getindirty , the parking brake does not hold well on any 2520 from the factory.
thay told me it is set up so a woman would be able to lock it. and it dont hold well. it is a very easy fix. look for the 2 rods with turn buckes under each floor board. go about 2 turns each one. and it holds fine...

Chris...

 

[RalphVa]

Two big differences between the 2305 and 2320 (incl. 2520) that haven't been pointed out: 1) there's about 4 inches or so more clearance; 2) the hydraulic filter and cooler are located below on the 2305 and in front of the radiator on 2320 and 2520. So, if you have any uneven terrain or mow any kind of junk that can be driven up into that exposed plastic fan and cooler, get the 2320 or 2520.

I've a smaller hp version of the 2320, a 4010. Unless you're in a big hurry while running the loader, the 2320 should be fine. I (and another person who has a 4010 has done the same) hauled 20 tons or so of gravel to put on my trails through the woods and ACROSS a hill, to keep my tractor from slidding down the side of the hill. Worked great for that, and I use it all the time for tossing and hauling mulch. I WOULD NOT want a bigger (than the 53") bucket than I have for hauling gravel. It's too much weight out there. The ONLY way I'd want to haul gravel with a 61" bucket would be to have about an equal amount of gravel on the back of my carryall, but I don't wanna hand shovel that much gravel into and out of the carryall.

The 2305 and 2320 are pretty much identical weight tractors, about the same as my 4010.

Ralph

 

[viking65]

I compared all three, 2305, 2320 and 2520 side by side at the dealer. The 2305 is a great tractor but I wanted more ground clearance and I did not like the hydro filter and fan being so exposed underneath. I go into the woods and I'm sure I would have ripped the filter out and/or busted the fan doing that.

The 2320 gives you a lot more clearance than the 2305 and is exactly the same as the 2520. The real differences are 2.5hp, and somewhat quicker hydraulics on the 2520. The only real benefit, according to my dealer, and I tend to agree is that if you want a 72" MMM then you have to go to the 2520. Other than that the 2320 has the same ground clearance and same 3pt hitch capacity as the 2520. The increased expenditure was not worth it because I did not need or want the 72" MMM.

My 2320 handles the 62" MMM and 61" bucket great. The deck is so easy to take off and put back on. I don't think the 72" deck is a roll over, is it?

All 3 are great tractors, very well built and should last a very long time.

 

[ddivinia]

Ok gents need some new advice! Sold my Kubota 3830 to downsize, looking at one of these new JD sub compacts 2320 or 2520. I know the 2520 has a way more robust hydraulic system compared to the 2320 but that doesn稚 really justify the way greater expense. So let me hear it good the bad and ugly.....or other ideas, I will tell you up front not really a big fan of the Kubota subs because of how small they really are JD seems to have carved a really good lil niche here in this market. Far as the work lots of FEL box grading and MM mowing. Thanks.

Do yourself a favor - get the 2520. The hydraulics on the 2305 and 2320 will drive you crazy. I had a 2210 and it was a great little tractor. The MMM mowed like crazy and it sipped fuel. One of the reasons I got rid of it - the hydraulics are slow.

D.

 

[BloomingtonMike]

I will say this though - That 3830 Kubota is one nice tractor. You may be sorry to see it go. I sat on one several times back. Pretty stout machine.

 

[ddivinia]

I compared all three, 2305, 2320 and 2520 side by side at the dealer. The 2305 is a great tractor but I wanted more ground clearance and I did not like the hydro filter and fan being so exposed underneath. I go into the woods and I'm sure I would have ripped the filter out and/or busted the fan doing that.

The 2320 gives you a lot more clearance than the 2305 and is exactly the same as the 2520. The real differences are 2.5hp, and somewhat quicker hydraulics on the 2520. The only real benefit, according to my dealer, and I tend to agree is that if you want a 72" MMM then you have to go to the 2520. Other than that the 2320 has the same ground clearance and same 3pt hitch capacity as the 2520. The increased expenditure was not worth it because I did not need or want the 72" MMM.

My 2320 handles the 62" MMM and 61" bucket great. The deck is so easy to take off and put back on. I don't think the 72" deck is a roll over, is it?

All 3 are great tractors, very well built and should last a very long time.

"somewhat quicker hydraulics on the 2520"

There is a huge difference in the hydraulics. If you don't use them - no big deal. If you want your loader to really work - get the higher capacity unit.

D.

 

[unreconstructed]

About filling the tires--some posters in past 2320/2520 discussions have stated that they did not fill the back tires to reduce imprint when mowing the lawn but add the ballast box when needed for loader work. My dealer forgot to fill the tires on my 2320 so by accident I went this route also. Have only mowed the yard once with the 2320 (usually use the LT133) and it worked just fine. Just a thought.

Never used a 2520 so don't know the difference in hydaulic speed. Am so happy to have two tractors now instead of the wheelbarrow and shovel I used for 20 years that I don't guess I give a #$% how fast the FEL works.But I don't use it commercially either.

 

[aesanders]

"somewhat quicker hydraulics on the 2520"

There is a huge difference in the hydraulics. If you don't use them - no big deal. If you want your loader to really work - get the higher capacity unit.

D.

It all depends on how much you plan on using the front end loader. I use mine but mostly for hauling a generator around or moving some logs or small hay bales or something like that which does not effect the usage one bit. Now I have had some jobs where I use the front end loader alot and maybe would have appreciated the faster response, but those jobs have been few and far between for me. Now if I was using the machine for commercial application where time is money, then by all means the 2520 would be ideal. For me the 2320 is fast enough and if you rev up the engine it is fairly responsive anyway...

 

[aesanders]

About filling the tires--some posters in past 2320/2520 discussions have stated that they did not fill the back tires to reduce imprint when mowing the lawn but add the ballast box when needed for loader work. My dealer forgot to fill the tires on my 2320 so by accident I went this route also. Have only mowed the yard once with the 2320 (usually use the LT133) and it worked just fine. Just a thought.

Never used a 2520 so don't know the difference in hydaulic speed. Am so happy to have two tractors now instead of the wheelbarrow and shovel I used for 20 years that I don't guess I give a #$% how fast the FEL works.But I don't use it commercially either.

I do not have my tires filled either. I just hook up my bush hog (best) or boxblade (not as good but smaller and more compact) to the tractor. I couldn't imagine a ballast box (unless it weighed 1000 lb's) would be any better for ballast than the bush hog. The extra length of the bush hog makes a great counter weight. I have picked up some logs that have weighed around 1000 lb's with the 2320. I wouldnt want to do this all the time with this little machine, but on occasions it does the trick just fine...

 

[Dirt_Works]

All great points gents! I am 95% sure I am going the 2520 route. One person stated it depends on "how much FEL work you want to do", well I am the typical male you give me somthing to play in the dirt with and I will find things to do with it! Right now the only issue is nailing the price down wih the dealer. Does any one know if you can run two rear work lights as well as the two front ones?
D_W