Ok - 2320 time!

[JDinVT]

I have decided to move from the 2305 I was shopping for, and land on the 2320. The dealer told me the 2320 would be much more stable in the woods. As I plan to clear many trails (with hills) this speaks volumes to me.

Going with CX200, 6' York w/casters, and a rear 60" finish mower, per dealer addressing my questions.

Here is my question - is the rear finish mower a smart move over the MMM? It does not seem it....

Next what should I pay? I might just get the tractor/loader/mower and find the york used.

Thanks again all! Soon I will buy a tractor, and you will not have to see anymore of my questions - ok...maybe I will have more questions!

 

[Gizmo2]

Good move. But I cannot answer your question as to the mower.
I will also say if it were not for questions the forum would cease to exist.

 

[bp fick]

First, congratulations on the decision to go 2320, that would be my own, and might BE my own one day!

My reasoning, which supports your decision is the increased ground clearance, and the safety factor of no little plastic fan on the trans!!

As for MMM versus RFM, it is a simple matter of obstacles. If you have an uncluttered acre or two to mow, the RFM is cheaper and easier to install. But if you intend to mow like a riding mower, around tighter obstacles, trees, house, etc, the MMM is usually chosen.

 

[jenkinsph]

JD,
There is good and bad with either choice it seems to me. I would prefer to use a mmm for use near trees and shrubs because it is easier to see where the deck is without rubbernecking. With a mmm deck you want one that is easily removed and replaced as you will need to do this often when doing other work with the fel in rough terrain. You should take a close look at this R and R procedures to help you decide.

How big is the underbrush and growth you need to clear for the trails and is it your intention to use the finish mower either mid or rear for this purpose? If it is much more than some weeds you may need a rotary cutter for this. The problem with a rotary cutter on a small acreage is that you soon have everything cleared and then have little use for it.

The rear finish mower is definately easier to remove and replace and should have less issues with raising and lowering of the deck with hydraulics. Depending on the rfm chosen you may be able to choose one that is built heavy enough to deal with your trails without damage. I just don't like the idea of routine mowing in close quarters with an rfm. If you have lots of open ares to mow I think they are a good choice.

When you choose one of the small tractors such as the 2320 to do all of the jobs you have from fel work to mowing you need to be prepared to do alot of hooking and unhooking of the various attachments. I would say that I would look closely at the R and R of the drive over deck instead of the rfm and then consider renting a brush hog a couple of times if needed for clearing trails. I would also consider a small boxblade too.


In my case I made a larger separation between mowing and landscape work. I use the 4520, 820 and 110tlb to prepare lawns and clear undergrowth make ready for lawns. Then use a riding mower (L130) and a trimming mower (JS45) to maintain the lawn. This small riding mower with a towable cart, spike tooth/drop seeeder, spin spreader is used on finished areas only. When the time comes I will replace the existing mower with a better unit very likely a X300R rear bagger.

Hope some of this helps you decide what to do, my only thought is that a good riding mower doesn't cost much more than an rfm or mmm and then you don't have to deal with removal and replacement. Just so many variables to consider.

 

[bp fick]

JD,
Hope some of this helps you decide what to do, my only thought is that a good riding mower doesn't cost much more than an rfm or mmm and then you don't have to deal with removal and replacement. Just so many variables to consider.

Man, I so agree. If a guy is going mow a half dozen acres (which I have never quite understood, cause I am a garden, woods, and pasture rather than humongous lawn kind of guy), then it makes some sense to mow with a tractor. But if you just have a reasonable sized yard, 1.5 acres or less, I absolutely believe in just buying a riding lawn mower. Some guys say, "Well, that's two machines to maintain." but I never did see that as some huge problem.

 

[Gizmo2]

I went the rear mount 5 ft finish mower deck. That deal lasted about 2 years, sold it and bought a commercial Zero Turn. I can mow my pastures and lawn in about half the time with the Z as it took with the tractor.

 

[jenkinsph]

Man, I so agree. If a guy is going mow a half dozen acres (which I have never quite understood, cause I am a garden, woods, and pasture rather than humongous lawn kind of guy), then it makes some sense to mow with a tractor. But if you just have a reasonable sized yard, 1.5 acres or less, I absolutely believe in just buying a riding lawn mower. Some guys say, "Well, that's two machines to maintain." but I never did see that as some huge problem.

I always laugh about the "two machines to maintain" part. I used to worry about keeping track of lof's radiators, fluids etc. Till I came up with a better plan, I do the lof's on vehicles every 3000 miles or close to it for example one shows 3000 or 15000 or 66000 it gets an oil change. Every season change 1st day of spring, summer, fall and winter we check everything in a row, from the DR trimmer mower thru the trucks and tractors kind of a mini assembly line. Doesn't take that long and saves a lot of grief. I think the biggest issue is batteries; right now I have 31 wet cell batteries and they are all sowly dieing whether I use them or not.

 

[JDinVT]

Hey guys! Thanks for the good advice! So many options - it drives me nutty. Here is the deal with the land:

It has very little lawn at the moment. However, it has lots of berry bushes and woods that I would like to convert into more lawn, and even some field. The wooded sections would be left alone, but thinned to leave hardwood and make a nice camping area below the house.

I am only talking 5 acres here in all so the place is not massive! Maybe I would go MMM when the time is right, and just use a small rider for now. I have one, so it is not like it is a big deal. Part of the selling point of the tractor is that it can also do the lawn. (selling part to the wife I mean)



Josh

 

[jenkinsph]

Well in that case I surely wouldn't be concerned about an rfm.

Might consider a small used rotary cutter for the brush. I would back in slowly and clear the area before the tractor this will help with the wooded area. Basically I would thin and clear the woods enough that you can drive a small cutter through the trees. Backing the tractor in will save the finish from all the scratches and you too.

for the new lawn areas,
What I have found works for me is to cut out and stack the brush in piles then with a backhoe or excavator dig out all the stumps big and small. Then depending on the hauling fees and distance either haul the debris away, chip it up or bury it in trenches. If you want more lawn areas it needs to be cleaned up at least four inches deep, raked and smoothed out well.
Not sure where the mmm or rfm fit into this if you have a riding mower, but you might wan't to consider some implements to smooth the ground out.

 

[JDinVT]

Cool Steve! Thank you for the tips! The 2320 will be a hard working tractor, but a pretty boy tractor! I like the backing in idea! I imagine I will have to have a few "bonfires" to keep the summer alive!

Bring the marshmallows!