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  1. #11
    Veteran Member foggy1111's Avatar
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    JD 3320 eHydro w/ 300CX Loader

    Default Re: Specs for new 3320

    It seems to me that the foundry bucket may be a little over-the-top for my purposes. I like that HD bucket....and rather than the cutting edge....the tooth bar would serve to stiffen the bucket lip. Then too I may add an angle along the top for my hooks and add the grapple. The weight is going to add up.

    I would like to keep the bucket at 62" wide for use in the woods. (or, maybe two buckets is the answer if I need 'em?) Its not real critical for most of my work to have the bucket wider than the tractor (with the wide wheel setting)....still, I know its the right thing.

    Another possibility is a dedicated root rake with a grapple set up....and a materials bucket. More reading to do.....and pricing.

    I think I am clearer on the hydraulic needs for now. Thanks for all the inputs.....I need to go looking at these set-ups.

    Foggy (aka dreamer)
    3320 eHydro, 300CX Loader & 15 + great attachments

    You gotta mine allot of dirt to find a diamond.

  2. #12
    Veteran Member
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    Hartselle, Alabama
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    Deere 2520

    Default Re: Specs for new 3320

    Quote Originally Posted by AKfish View Post

    Bought a rototiller from a guy that has the JD QA system on his 400X loader. Needed to drop the bucket and use his forks to load the tiller and then switch the attachments back again - PITA - IMO.





    Another attachment that I recommend with a new tractor package is a set of forks. I use mine quite a bit and find more uses all the time.

    AKfish
    I don' seem to have problems with the JD QA. I raise the loader(mainly so I don't have to reach to the ground) get off tractor, pull a pin from each side. Then get on tractor and drop bucket, pick up the forks (dump with joystick, so I grap forks with the top cuff) and then curl back the loader. The pins go right in, then get off and put the snap pins in. Most companies offer attachments with the JD style QA. JC
    JD 3320 LX5, KK rake and off brand box and rear blade. Millonzi grapple. Deere X495 for grass cutting.
    01 Ram 4x4 2500 CTD and 22' 12k trailer. Want a tiller and dump trailer.

  3. #13
    Elite Member AKfish's Avatar
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    JD 5075M; JD 110 TLB; Ford Ferguson 9N: JD X300R

    Default Re: Specs for new 3320

    Quote Originally Posted by RollTideRam View Post
    I don' seem to have problems with the JD QA. I raise the loader(mainly so I don't have to reach to the ground) get off tractor, pull a pin from each side. Then get on tractor and drop bucket, pick up the forks (dump with joystick, so I grap forks with the top cuff) and then curl back the loader. The pins go right in, then get off and put the snap pins in. Most companies offer attachments with the JD style QA. JC
    I'm sure it gets easier the more you use it... coming from a SS with the lever up - lever down system; it was more of a wrangle with the pins than lifting a lever!

    AKfish
    "Most people want to live on top of the mountain, but all the happiness and growth occurs while you're climbing it."

  4. #14
    Elite Member
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    JD 4520, Toolcat 5610, Bobcat S300, Case-IH 125 Pro, Case-IH 245, IH 1086, IH 806

    Default Re: Specs for new 3320

    Quote Originally Posted by foggy1111 View Post
    Hmmmm.....lots of good advice posted above. I definitely have some things to think about and likely need to make a trip to a larger JD store to look a bit. It's always easier after seeing the application.

    I really wanted to keep my bucket width down (to 62") but also like having the wide rear wheel setting. I fear too much bucket width around my wooded property. I'm a bit torn....but this will sort out.

    I have seen those skid steer "foundry" buckets in a few photos.....seem to be quite a bit longer along the bottom, but not as high at the back IIRC. Not sure how that will work with a grapple or dirt.

    I like the sound of the JD hydraulic lines neatly along the loader frame...and at the price above that seems a "given". I need to get decided if I want to go with a dedicated grapple line separate from my rear hydraulics. A hydraulic top link would sure be nice....but where does it end?
    The foundry bucket does not have a longer bottom compared to standard JD bucket and the back is nearly the same height. A low profile skid steer bucket would have a long front and shorter back than the foundry bucket. Is that what you saw? I believe the foundry bucket weighs about 75# more than the JD HD bucket. Not a big effect on lift capacity. A low profile bucket would not work well on a CUT. http://www.deere.com/en_US/cfd/const.../DKABKTCWP.pdf
    Do not get the utility bucket, they are really big.

    The diverter switch to make the joystick run 2 rear hydraulics is an option to run the grapple on the bucket. However, I will cost 2-3x's more that just the rear single valve. Also, it is much easier to run the grapple from the single lever hydraulic control lever. Otherwise you will be constantly flipping the diverter switch to run the grapple, switch back to run the loader and bucket, switch it again..... I have both the diverter switch and single rear outlet for a total of 3 rear hydraulics. It is much easier and less complicated to use the single rear outlet with it's single lever rather than using the diverter switch to run a grapple, hydraulic auger, ect.

    If you plan on setting the wheels at the widest, you will be much happier in the long term with a bucket that is at least as wide as the tires. The 3000 series are not good on hill sides with the tires set narrow and feel tippy.

  5. #15
    Veteran Member foggy1111's Avatar
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    JD 3320 eHydro w/ 300CX Loader

    Default Re: Specs for new 3320

    I found a 66" wide "foundry bucket" in the JD configurator (14.4 cu ft). It is pre-drilled for a tooth bar or alternately a bucket edge (but not both). They also have a 66" tooth bar listed for this bucket which seems fairly priced and looks good. This may prove to be an ideal all-around compromise for my operation in the "woods"....as I want to keep the bucket size down and the tread width up to max bucket width for stability.

    This "foundry" bucket actually costs less than the HD 61" bucket. Seems like a good compromise size for this tractor.....but either bucket would work. It may come down to which bucket is better equipped to handle a bucket grapple......as I don't think I want the expense or hassle of dealing with two bucket set-ups. (The foundry bucket top looks different than the HD bucket.)

    I also don't think I want to invest in Skid Steer attachment as I don't foresee my needs for such.....given the extra cost. (I gotta draw the line somewhere.) If I were a contractor I would be on it in a heartbeat.

    With the 8 position wheels that come with the R1's I am hopeful the wheel settings would allow the bucket to be just a smidge wider than the tire width. I need to find those settings.....somewhere.....gotta check the operator manual next. Also I have 5' foot implements....so I want to keep the wheel/tire settings to about 60"....I think.

    I did find the hydraulic lines to run to the front of the loader.....nice.

    The plot thickens.....as I do my homework.

    Any thoughts on this bucket set-up for a 3320?
    3320 eHydro, 300CX Loader & 15 + great attachments

    You gotta mine allot of dirt to find a diamond.

  6. #16
    Elite Member
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    Default Re: Specs for new 3320

    A bolt on bucket edge is typically for protection of the bucket lip against wear. If the bolt on edge wears badly, it is easily replaced. Personally, almost all CUT's never see enough FEL use to ever wear out the lip of a bucket. Maybe someone doing snow removal on cement could wear out a lip on a CUT FEL. A bucket edge does give some extra strength to the lip but the foundry bucket is more HD and IMHO does not need the bolt on edge for strength.
    I have used both tooth bars and those with individual teeth bolted directly to the bucket edge. The tooth bars result in an overall thicker edge (bucket lip, thickness of tooth bar and bottom of tooth extends below bucket). Therefore, toothbars do not dig as well as teeth directly bolted to the lip. IMO, tooth bars may take 25% more effort to dig compared to direct bolt on teeth. (seat of the pants measurement ) But, a toothbar still digs much better than a smooth bucket. If you are planning to leave the tooth bar on most of the time, consider getting direct bolt on teeth to the bucket lip. Direct bolt on teeth should also be cheaper than a bar. It is still easy to back blade with a toothed bucket, especially if the teeth are flush with the bottom of the bucket. A bolt on tooth bucket will also act like a smooth bucket if the teeth are flat to the ground. A tooth bar bucket will not perform like a smooth bucket because of the thicker front edge.

    The JD foundry bucket has a thicker top edge. JD may make a bolt on grapple for the foundry but I do not know. Bobcat does have a bolt on grapple for their regular buckets. Maybe JD does? JD does have a grapple fork bucket and maybe that could fit on a foundry bucket? I had foundry buckets on both my 3720 (66") and 4520 (72"). Loved them. It was a recommendation by a fellow TBNer and I am passing it on.

    Really consider the JD skid steer carrier attachment. In the long run it maybe cheaper. The foundry bucket is cheaper than the JD HD bucket and will save some money. If you ever plan to get forks, the JD CUT forks will cost much more than a new, similar skid steer type forks. Easy to find good used skid steer forks and save a lot of $$. You will almost never find a pair of used JD CUT forks. The amount of $$ saved by buying skid steer forks will pay for the skid steer carrier attachment. I find forks almost as useful as a bucket.

    Tire width. I owned a JD 3720 with cab and R4 tires. Set to their widest at 59"s. I had 2 CUTs prior to that one. That was a scary tractor on hill sides. 5 minutes after I bought it new, I tried a little digging on a dried up pond. I was on a mild slope, was digging and spun the down side tire deeper. No rear ballast or weights. I thought it was very close to tipping. Sphincter was tightened to maximum. I think because the bucket had dirt in it and was on the ground may have been the only reason it didn't tip. I did not feel I could raise the bucket at all. I did lower the bucket and raise the front end slightly to put more weight on the rear, used the bucket to push and managed to slowly back out of a bad situation. The 3000 series demands ballast in the rear (in tires, wheel weight, or 3pt attachment) to be safe and I feel more width in the rear. I now have a JD 4520 with identical cab. It sits higher but has R1 tires set at 71-72" and about 440 lbs of rear rim weights. It feels 3x more stable than the 3720 despite being taller. Long story short, really consider setting the tires wider than 60".

  7. #17
    Elite Member AKfish's Avatar
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    Default Re: Specs for new 3320

    Quote Originally Posted by radman1 View Post

    The diverter switch to make the joystick run 2 rear hydraulics is an option to run the grapple on the bucket. However, I will cost 2-3x's more that just the rear single valve. Also, it is much easier to run the grapple from the single lever hydraulic control lever. Otherwise you will be constantly flipping the diverter switch to run the grapple, switch back to run the loader and bucket, switch it again..... I have both the diverter switch and single rear outlet for a total of 3 rear hydraulics. It is much easier and less complicated to use the single rear outlet with it's single lever rather than using the diverter switch to run a grapple, hydraulic auger, ect.
    Switching the diverter back and forth can be irksome - however, reaching for the lever (have to pull your hand off the joystick) constantly and back to the joystick is irksome as well...

    What I like about using the loader with the grapple function on the joystick (no lever) is you can push into a pile of branches, logs, etc. and curl, lift and clamp the grapple without leaving the joystick. It's one fluid motion of "grabbing a big mouthful" and curling and lifting with the tractor always in motions forward and reverse. Can't do that if you're reaching for the lever..

    I've used both, too - and have the diverter with 3 outlets currently on my 110.

    What's worse; however, is using the grapple and needing to use the rear SCV at the same time. Pretty hard to do that without a diverter...

    Yep... costs more but it gives you alot more flexibility to use your tractor with additional implements, too.

    The best of all worlds would to be have additional rear SCV's WITHOUT having to have an electric diverter at all -- like the bigger Ag machines! Too bad deere hasn't gone that route with the 3-4000 series machines.

    AKfish
    "Most people want to live on top of the mountain, but all the happiness and growth occurs while you're climbing it."

  8. #18
    Elite Member
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    JD 4520, Toolcat 5610, Bobcat S300, Case-IH 125 Pro, Case-IH 245, IH 1086, IH 806

    Default Re: Specs for new 3320

    Quote Originally Posted by AKfish View Post
    Switching the diverter back and forth can be irksome - however, reaching for the lever (have to pull your hand off the joystick) constantly and back to the joystick is irksome as well...

    What I like about using the loader with the grapple function on the joystick (no lever) is you can push into a pile of branches, logs, etc. and curl, lift and clamp the grapple without leaving the joystick. It's one fluid motion of "grabbing a big mouthful" and curling and lifting with the tractor always in motions forward and reverse. Can't do that if you're reaching for the lever..

    I've used both, too - and have the diverter with 3 outlets currently on my 110.

    What's worse; however, is using the grapple and needing to use the rear SCV at the same time. Pretty hard to do that without a diverter...

    Yep... costs more but it gives you alot more flexibility to use your tractor with additional implements, too.

    The best of all worlds would to be have additional rear SCV's WITHOUT having to have an electric diverter at all -- like the bigger Ag machines! Too bad deere hasn't gone that route with the 3-4000 series machines.

    AKfish
    I agree. Switch for grapple on the joystick is the best option but no OEM JD option than I am aware of.

  9. #19
    Elite Member AKfish's Avatar
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    Default Re: Specs for new 3320

    That's what I have OEM on the 110. Rocker switch at the top of the joystick handle. Up for grapple open and down for grapple closed. Of course, you have to activate the diverter first with a toggle switch and note whether the hyd functions are front or rear.

    How would the 3rd outlet for the FEL be activated open and closed after the you toggle the diverter on for front use?

    AKfish
    "Most people want to live on top of the mountain, but all the happiness and growth occurs while you're climbing it."

  10. #20
    Veteran Member foggy1111's Avatar
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    Default Re: Specs for new 3320

    Quote Originally Posted by AKfish View Post
    That's what I have OEM on the 110. Rocker switch at the top of the joystick handle. Up for grapple open and down for grapple closed. Of course, you have to activate the diverter first with a toggle switch and note whether the hyd functions are front or rear.

    How would the 3rd outlet for the FEL be activated open and closed after the you toggle the diverter on for front use?

    AKfish
    This is what I am wondering too. About the time I think I understand the hydraulic options, valves, plumbing, and switch functions....someone adds another twist to the plot.

    I don't think John deere does a very good job of describing the availability or operation of the hydraulics. Of course I don't use these hydraulic terms everyday.
    3320 eHydro, 300CX Loader & 15 + great attachments

    You gotta mine allot of dirt to find a diamond.

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