3032e/3038e questions

[bxowner]

Have been checking out these models and can't figure out a couple of options on them... hoping someone can help:

1. I believe they're identical in size, including tire dimensions. Correct?
2. Can you get power beyond? i.e. to run a log splitter?
3. The brochure states it can take a front plow blade - but I can't find an option for the frame-mount variety. Is the only option the quick-attach Frontier model? If so, should I be more confident in the 305 loader torsional rigidity compared with the 300x/300cx arms? I've heard that loader-mounted blades can bend the arms. But perhaps the 305 permanent mount is stronger?
4. Can you add an optional FEL loader joystick that's more like the other 3000-series tractors? I know you can do that on a Kubota B2630/3030 model... I have a torn rotator cuff in my right shoulder that makes reaching out uncomfortable - but, reaching down for the loader joystick just fine.
5. Can you upgrade the seat like the 2000-series?
6. How does the diff-lock work with the brake pedal?
7. Finally... are the height dimensions the same for ag/industrial/turf tires? I ask because I have a 7' garage door and want ag's, but the wheel size seems much larger in pictures compared with the turf and industrial size wheels... the brochure doesn't help. Only says 83".

Thanks!

 

[RoyJackson]

Have been checking out these models and can't figure out a couple of options on them... hoping someone can help:

1. I believe they're identical in size, including tire dimensions. Correct?
2. Can you get power beyond? i.e. to run a log splitter?
3. The brochure states it can take a front plow blade - but I can't find an option for the frame-mount variety. Is the only option the quick-attach Frontier model? If so, should I be more confident in the 305 loader torsional rigidity compared with the 300x/300cx arms? I've heard that loader-mounted blades can bend the arms. But perhaps the 305 permanent mount is stronger?
4. Can you add an optional FEL loader joystick that's more like the other 3000-series tractors? I know you can do that on a Kubota B2630/3030 model... I have a torn rotator cuff in my right shoulder that makes reaching out uncomfortable - but, reaching down for the loader joystick just fine.
5. Can you upgrade the seat like the 2000-series?
6. How does the diff-lock work with the brake pedal?
7. Finally... are the height dimensions the same for ag/industrial/turf tires? I ask because I have a 7' garage door and want ag's, but the wheel size seems much larger in pictures compared with the turf and industrial size wheels... the brochure doesn't help. Only says 83".

Thanks!

For the 3032e, got to the Deere website, select the 3032e, then select manual (it'll be on the left side of the web page). That's the operator's manual which will answer some of your questions.
Since the 3032e's loader doesn't come off, I'd wager you're stuck with the loader mounted blade. Use some sense and you'll be OK. By "sense",I mean don't run the tractor at top speed when blading.
The manual may give you the ROPS height for the tires. Look in the manual's specifications section (near the end of the manual). I think you'll see about 6" difference (due to the different types of tires) from maximum to minimum. I can't recall if the 3032e has a folding ROPS, but if it does, your garage door height won't matter.
As far as the log splitter, you'll have to check. But if it runs off the PTO, you may have a problem. The 3032e does not have off seat PTO capability (put a 50-100 bag of sand on the seat).

There's a start, bro...now go read that manual.

 

[kennyd]

Just remember, the "E" is for Economy, JD might not admit it-but it is.

1. I think so...
2. I don't think there is a JD option since they don't offer a backhoe for it. I am sure it's possible to add it yourself though.
3. The loader is "permanent" so I don't see how a frame mounted blade will work-and it appears they don't offer it.
4. I seriously doubt it. Remember what the "E" stands for?
5. Who knows...anything is possible. The 2000 series upgrades your are speaking of is all custom stuff anyway, not JD.
6. Not sure i understand. The diff lock should be a separate lever. These units do NOT have split brakes.
7. ROPS height will be different with different tires.


By all your questions though, this does not sound like the machine for you

 

[Artesia Aggie]

The 3032e/3038e has some type of rear hydraulic kit available. I'm a little light on details, but the dealer mentioned it when I was tractor shopping.

I believe the 305 loader is the only choice for these tractors.

The dealer had one with ag tires and one with industrial. BIG difference in height.

 

[HowlingWolf]

Hey I also think you would probabily be disaponted with the Es. I really wanted the FEL joystick like the others, but very happy with my 3032. Light pressure on the brake pedal locks in the diff. very easy. Sounds like you need comforts. I would go with the 3320 if you can afford it but that 5k is all upgrade swank. I only needed basic so thats what I got. Good hunting.

 

[JD755]

...Light pressure on the brake pedal locks in the diff. very easy.....

This is interesting to me. I had never heard of this so I checked the manual. It says depress brake 3/4 to 1 inch to engage diff lock. Does it disengage if you press it further? Do you sense a feel in the pedal when it engages? Just curious.

 

[msmud]

The manual suggests the diff lock will automatically disengage when the tires no longer are experiencing slip.

This is slightly off topic from the original poster's questions, but the engine tuning of the 3032E and 3038E shows some rather interesting ramifications. In the case of the 3032E as compared to the 3320's version of the engine, limiting operating rpm to 2500 rpm and raising the compression ratio to 19 increases operating torque slightly (from 61.6 to around 62.7 ft-lbs), moves the torque peak up to 1680 rpm from 1560, and most dramatically increases the peak torque by 10% (from 73.9 to 80.2 ft-lbs) and the torque rise from 20% in 1.64L version in the 3320, to 28% in its 3032E guise.

This is interesting to me given the light weight of the 3032E and 3038E. For one thing, both tractors would seem very likely to spin the wheels given the improved torque numbers, and unless one really needs 30 PTO hp, the spinning might be a real issue with the 3038E.

It is also interesting that having a higher torque peak and torque rise may help performance under load, but if the torque peak comes at a higher rpm value, it may be theoretically easier to stall the tractor under an extreme load that pushes the engine below the higher rpm torque peak. Makes me wonder about these two for loader operations. For 3 pt activies like bushhogging, they might be great little machines, perhaps even a bit better than the 3320/3520 versions of the engines.

I'd be very interested in what users of these are reporting as far as performance.
Tim

 

[JD755]

The manual suggests the diff lock will automatically disengage when the tires no longer are experiencing slip.

Any of the JD diff locks will maintain lock until slippage is gone and then automatically disengage. But this is after you release the diff lock pedal. I'm trying to understand how this brake/diff lock system works. Does diff lock engage any time you push the brake, or only if you carefully hold the pedal depressed just one inch. Any more or any less is it not engaged? With a standard diff lock pedal I can feel when it fully engages after I press it. That may not be for a moment until gears align. Is there any pedal feel feedback with the combined brake/diff lock pedal. Again, just trying to learn.

 

[msmud]

I'm not sure why it would be any different from how you engage the lock on any of the other tractors--depress the brake pedal partially long enough for it to catch, and let go.

I meant to test this interesting feature last week when I test drove a 3038E, but I forgot to when I was with the salesman. I only used the brake pedal after I had stopped the tractor, in order to shift from A to B range. It felt and functioned like a normal brake when I pushed it all the way to the floor, and there was no unlocking "pop" after I got going, I'm assuming because I used it after the wheels had stopped via hydrostatic deceleration, and because I didn't hold the brake in the partial position needed to catch the lock.

Personally, I think this is rather innovative. I always found it rather awkward trying to find and stomp the little diff lock pedal somewhere up under the seat, the few times I have needed it. The big brake pedal in front of you ought to be a lot easier and quicker to use.

 

[JD755]

To me that seems very inconvenient. I use diff lock a lot and never have any trouble just stepping on the pedal. I may step on it for an extended distance on a ditch slope to prevent side slip. I need to make sure it is engaged until I no longer need it. Only then will I let up on the pedal. I would not want to balance a brake pedal position hoping it stays engaged. Without it a tire can spin loose pretty quickly. Same thing with wet flat areas. I may engage it as I enter the area knowing that if nothing spins loose I can get through it OK. But a momentary spin can quickly create a mud bog. Sounds like you rarely need diff lock so the brake operation may not be a problem for you and that's OK. We all have different needs for our tractors.