Buying Advice Need advice on what tractor to buy for 120 acres

[Kyle_in_Tex]

I talked with the john deere dealer and he seems to think the 4720 would do everything I need to do. If I go with the 4720, I would get the hydro and if I go with the 5085 I would get the power reverser. I would like to know how I would like the power reverser vs. the hydro for MOST of my needs stated.

I have both and like both. You will like whichever you end up with. Are your fields bumpy? Again, I like big tires. Would I like a cabbed 4720? Heck yes. 4720 has plenty of mowing power but you'll need to fill the front end loader with dirt for pulling a disc and putting the power to the ground. Reading your chore list, I'd recommend R1 tires for whatever you get. Be sure to get the FEL with either tractor.

 

[foggy1111]

If you will spend a lot of time in the woods and using your tractor to push over dead trees and such, I recommend some sort of protection on the tractor. I used to do this with no FOPS thinking I could just be careful but after 2 instances where I didn't account for everything I decided to have a FOPS built.

FOPS, ROPS or Cab.....Pushing over dead trees is asking for trouble. Way too often the tree is going to break and fall back toward you. It doesn't take a very big branch to kill you.

 

[Gale Hawkins]

FOPS, ROPS or Cab.....Pushing over dead trees is asking for trouble. Way too often the tree is going to break and fall back toward you. It doesn't take a very big branch to kill you.

They are called Widow makers for a reason. Our JD 310B backhoe has the four support with heavy metal top but I never want to learn its limit.

 

[jenkinsph]

FOPS, ROPS or Cab.....Pushing over dead trees is asking for trouble. Way too often the tree is going to break and fall back toward you. It doesn't take a very big branch to kill you.

Clearing out dead trees and high falling branches is one of the fastest ways to get hurt and beat the crap out of your tractor. Each situation is different some are easy to see what to do some aren't but it is important to stay out of the debris field. I have sawed some and pushed others with my dozer in the past, I have pulled other over with a cable that were just too dangerous to get beneath and work.

For the most part this isn't good work for a tractor anyway and not much real savings or benefit from doing it. Small stuff isn't too bad but for large trees you need the right equipment.

 

[endchiro]

Another big question is whether to buy new or used. My research seems to show that the used tractors sure maintain the upper price tag. Making me wonder if i should buy new. Was thinking used because of the use time being restricted to weekends but some new prices on the 4520 s and 4720 s are close to the used price. Even my jd dealer told me he'd buy the used 4520 on the lot and spend the rest on implements. It was an 08 4520, no cab, with cx loader and rear weights for 28,500. 350 hours. Seemed high by a few thousand. Also, I am still leaning towards a cab. What have others decided when buying used or new?
I do plan on keeping it as long as possible. Thanks, Eric

 

[Gale Hawkins]

Another big question is whether to buy new or used. My research seems to show that the used tractors sure maintain the upper price tag. Making me wonder if i should buy new. Was thinking used because of the use time being restricted to weekends but some new prices on the 4520 s and 4720 s are close to the used price. Even my jd dealer told me he'd buy the used 4520 on the lot and spend the rest on implements. It was an 08 4520, no cab, with cx loader and rear weights for 28,500. 350 hours. Seemed high by a few thousand. Also, I am still leaning towards a cab. What have others decided when buying used or new?
I do plan on keeping it as long as possible. Thanks, Eric

It boils down you what you want but I bet in 20 years from now your neighbors or you will be able to tell the 2008 from a 2011. :thumbsup:

 

[jenkinsph]

The 2008 is just about out of warranty too which is another consideration. I would also wonder why someone traded in this low hour tractor?

 

[AKfish]

I'm currently in the market for another tractor, too. Really been looking for 3-4 months now. After a hard look at the 5000 series machines (they're only a few thousand more than the 4000 series) - I've moved on to either a low-hour used or new - 4520 or 4720.

You're correct; the low-hour used machines are very close to new prices! :thumbdown:

When you throw in financing charges for a used tractor.. and no warranty - well, the balance is only about $2-3K in favor of a used machine!

I'm personally looking for a new machine at this point.

IMO - it makes more sense to get EXACTLY what you want on a tractor instead of ending up with a tractor that you'll be irritated with AFTER paying a near-new price for!

AKfish

 

[TripleR]

Another big question is whether to buy new or used. My research seems to show that the used tractors sure maintain the upper price tag. Making me wonder if i should buy new. Was thinking used because of the use time being restricted to weekends but some new prices on the 4520 s and 4720 s are close to the used price. Even my jd dealer told me he'd buy the used 4520 on the lot and spend the rest on implements. It was an 08 4520, no cab, with cx loader and rear weights for 28,500. 350 hours. Seemed high by a few thousand. Also, I am still leaning towards a cab. What have others decided when buying used or new?
I do plan on keeping it as long as possible. Thanks, Eric

We have bought new and used. An awful lot is going to depend on your mechanical abilities. My brothers are mechanics and the newest one they use is a mid 60's Case. I bought a 7 year old tractor this year and a new one; just depends on what I find and want to spend.

 

[Gale Hawkins]

I find the weight of the tractor is as important as any other feature in my experience.