Backhoe installation

[smalltown]

Just thinking out loud here. If I purchased a 2320 or 2520 without the backhoe would it be a "bear" to add one later.

From time to time I see them used. Usually they are in good shape.

I realize that if ordered with the tractor it would come with a power beyond kit installed. Not knowing hydraulics that sounds like a diverter and a port to get hydo fluid to the rear of the tractor? I also imagine that the backhoe must require a lot of "bulling" to get the backhoe frame to slide underneath the tractor to be secured by quite a few bolts.

My preference would be installed at the dealer, but if it's not a nighmare then it would open up many more possibilites especially buying used without the backhoe.

Am I out of my mind for even considering it?

P.S. Just talked to a dealer and I wasn't aware that on both the 2320 and the 2520 with a backhoe frame installed that not only must the mower deck must be removed, but the mowing deck frame also. I thought the 2320 was ok wih the mower emoveed. He did suggest that if ordered that way I order the power beyond even without the backhoe.

 

[RoyJackson]

I think you'll find the most cost effective way is to buy the backhoe when you buy the tractor. That way, you can spread the payments out over 4 or 5 years.
You'll also be getting a backhoe that fits your tractor. Those backhoes you see used may not fit your tractor without modifications or may not be compatable with your tractor. You may have to design and build your own subframe, for example.

 

[smalltown]

Sorry to drive everybody crazy with these questions. I figure the only difference between me and Hosni Mubarak is that he had a heart attack, because of the uprising in Eqypt, but mine will be over a tractor purchase.

Roy thanks I would only buy a #46 John Deere backhoe so it would fit without any modification.

I was thinking afterward (when I calmed down) that if I did buy a new tractor without a backhoe it would make sense to purchase the power beyond installed in case I wanted to add the backhoe later.

P.S. I learned an interesting thing today talking to Muttons. The MMM cannot be on the tractor when the backhoe is installed. As a matter of fact you need to remove all the mounting harware for the mower deck. I thought that was only for the 2520, but I was told for the 2320 too.
So that sounds like a pain and an awful lot of work/time if somebody wanted to put the mower back on.

I guess that means if you want to install the mower you need to remove the backhoe frame? Does anybody know if that's the case?

 

[Rob-D]

Sorry to drive everybody crazy with these questions. I figure the only difference between me and Hosni Mubarak is that he had a heart attack, because of the uprising in Eqypt, but mine will be over a tractor purchase.

Roy thanks I would only buy a #46 John Deere backhoe so it would fit without any modification.

I was thinking afterward (when I calmed down) that if I did buy a new tractor without a backhoe it would make sense to purchase the power beyond installed in case I wanted to add the backhoe later.

If you're getting the tractor new than have them put on the beyond for you, makes life a lot easier and you can use it for log splitters and rear attachments if you decide not to get the hoe after all.

The sub frame for the 2320 is different than the sub for the 2520/2720 as they are longer tractors (just so you know).

If you're handy you can put the BH frame on yourself without too much trouble. When I went from a 2320 to a 2720 I did all the changing over myself and it wasn't that bad at all.

Your dealer is right, you can't have the mower on with the hoe, you can't have a front blower on with the hoe either. It's not hard to change them over but what i found was that I always had the hoe on when I needed to mow and the mower on when I needed to dig holes! Then it became a pain in the neck so I got a dedicated mower (ztrac) and got rid of the 62D deck.

Now I have the 3320 and the BH stays on all winter even with the front blower on. Life is a little easier but a little costlier!

Rob

 

[smalltown]

Rob do you agree that the mower deck and hardware must come off when the backhoe is installed for the 2320 also?

I was just talking to the wife about what a pain it might be swapping things around.

Just reread you post did you mean to say that the backhoe frames for the #46 backhoe are themselves different from the 2320 to the 2520?
I was looking at them tonight and yes I could see where they appeared different. So if they are I would also need to locate a #46 with a frame mount specifid to either a 2320 or a 2520 tractor.

 

[tkoza]

my 2210 came without backhoe

i added a subframe mounted JD260

tools required
a very good hex wrench metric or sae -the hole is smaller due to paint
metric box wrenches
3/8" metric ratchet kit both 6 and 12 pt
1/2" metric ratchet kit both 6 and 12 pt
a torque multiplying lever - ie peice of pipe

i installed the powerbeyond - this was the hardest part because the trans case is epoxy painted and an internal hex plug needed to be removed - lots of stress not to mess the hex on the plug up - the rest was easy

i installed the subframe my self - i had one fitment issue with the frame clearing a rear axel stress member and the backhoe frame needed grinding - 30min of time

total time spent on the power beyond and subframe 12-16 hrs from start to finish - you will most likely need to remove the ROPS and rear fenders and seat - thus you will need 1/2" sockets and a strong arm

i need to remove my 3pt arms to install the backhoe but i can leave my deck on if i am lazy i just lock it in the up position

even if i remove the arms and deck my total change over time is less than 30 min each way - well worth the extra muscle the backhoe provides

in my case there were spacers that came with my JD quick attach that fit perfectly where my three point arms attach to the frame so i sub them in - and the fit is just enough that i do not have to remove a rear wheel to remove the 3pt arms

as long as you block the backhoe in an elevated position it installs in 5min from backup to drive away - the secret is to use the side supports(to hook the lower framse supports) and the dipper(upper frame pins) to do the heavy work

i also have two 2' peices of QD hyd hose just in case i cannot keep backhoe elevated FOR STORAGE

in my case the best 5 grand i ever spent - the 260 may be small but i can still dig my own grave

i have a 8" and a 16" bucket - and i use the 16" the most

just get a subframe model need it not be john deere - and enjoy

 

[smalltown]

"the 260 may be small but i can still dig my own grave"

Now that's funny :laughing:

 

[smalltown]

Rob was your time to change from backhoe to mower or back like tkoza when tou had the 2320?

Just took a quick look at the Deere web site configurator and
"The 46 Backhoe is not Compatible with a Mid-Mount Mower Deck", and right there in front of me the subframe mountings are different for the 2320 and 2520. So I think I answered my question that the 2320 has the same restrictions as the 2520?

Better to know that now than later.

 

[roygul]

I've heard some people use a rear finish mower instead of the mid mount. May save some time swapping over to the hoe

Cheers
Byron

 

[Rob-D]

Rob do you agree that the mower deck and hardware must come off when the backhoe is installed for the 2320 also?

I was just talking to the wife about what a pain it might be swapping things around.

Just reread you post did you mean to say that the backhoe frames for the #46 backhoe are themselves different from the 2320 to the 2520?
I was looking at them tonight and yes I could see where they appeared different. So if they are I would also need to locate a #46 with a frame mount specifid to either a 2320 or a 2520 tractor.

Yes, the deck and hardware had to come off on my 2006 2320 and yes the mounting frame is different on the 2320 and the 2520/2720. The latter are longer tractors and the sub frame is thus longer for them. I'm sure of this because I went from the 2320 to the 2720 which has the same chassis as the 2520. By the way the sub frame goes for 900 bucks or so, at least that's what it cost back in 2008. I see a lot of people thinking they can simply move up up from the 2320 to the 2520 or 2720 if they want more power and thinking all the attachments just get moved along. Not so.
Besides the BH sub frame the whole 62D MMM and the hardware for the front snow blower are different. However, going form the 2520 to the 2720 is a simple transition and the parts are the same for both.
Bottom line is, learn from my mistakes. I went from the 2320 to the 2720 thinking I'd get a lot more tractor. While the 2520 and the 2720 are nicer tractors in my view you don't get any more in the rock shaft or the front loader, just more PTO hp. If this is all you need than fine but if you need more loader/rock shaft power go to the 3x20 series.
It's a tough position because new owners don't really know what they can do or will want to do until they really spend some time on these machines. That's something you can't determine spending a couple of hours playing in a dealer's sand lot.

As my dealer says "Nobody comes in here to trade down" so my advice is to get a little more tractor than you think you need.

Rob