What wrong with this John deere picture.

   / What wrong with this John deere picture. #1  
yelbike

yelbike

Veteran Member
Joined
Nov 7, 2011
Messages
1,639
Location
Near Winnipeg, Mb, Canada
Tractor
John Deere 2305, 2320,Z465
The block heater doesn't work on my 2320. I tested the cord. Ok. Tested the element, infinit ohms, its burnt open. Okay not so bad. I need to replace the element. Right?

On an unrelated trip the Canadian Tire (similar to Auto zone) I checked and they have the automotive replacement block heaters generally on sale from $35 down to $25. Why is it $109 from the John Deere stealer, oops I meant dealer. Block heater can't be that different. Obviously the deere threads are different so no easy fix there. Its just frustrating.:cool:

Two things.

Firstly, I bought this tractor used from the dealer in the fal. It had 140hrs, now it has 154 hrs. He was good enough to give me a new 4wd indicator switch 2 days after I took delivery as the switch was faulty. Should he do the same with the block heater? I think if he does great, if he doesn't no big deal, but it doesn't hurt to ask. Tractor is off warranty.

Secondly, does anyone know of an aftermarket one?
 
   / What wrong with this John deere picture. #2  
It wouldn't hurt to ask. Often times I hear of Deere warranting things well out of warranty. In your case you don't have a lot of machine hours to I would at least check with them and see what they say. Worst they can say is no.
 
   / What wrong with this John deere picture. #3  
I also suggest asking the dealer. Since you've only put 14 hours on the tractor, I think it's a good chance he'll get you the block heater.
I'm curious why it failed...there isn't much to them...
 
   / What wrong with this John deere picture. #4  
Your diagnosis is correct. The heating element failures almost always come from operating without being suspended in liquid to limit the heat. When they are operated only immersed in liquid they would normally last many years. Is it possible it was operated dry?

And just out of curiosity, how did you test the heating element separate from testing the cord? Is there a connector on the end of the cord? The ones I've seen have no place to separate (electrically) the cord from the heating element. You should just be able to check resistance across the cord prongs with it all plugged together (assuming there's no switch) and the resistance across the cord prongs should be about 50 ohms. The same would be true across the heating element directly.

...and, that is a crazy price for the one from JD. It probably doesn't even have any green paint :).
 
   / What wrong with this John deere picture.
  • Thread Starter
#5  
Nope no green paint!:(

I asked the salesman today, he said the manager was out, so he'll get back to me tomorrow.

As far as operating without or low coolant....well thats the down side to buying used....you don't know what the last guy did.:confused:
 
   / What wrong with this John deere picture. #6  
Not surprised the stealership price is so high.

Look at the plastic fenders for the X7xx series garden tractors, 2 very small, thin, plastic fenders are priced at about $170 per set if I remember correctly. It's about 4 pounds of plastic, there isn't $170 worth of oil in those fenders.
 
   / What wrong with this John deere picture. #7  
JDTank said:
Not surprised the stealership price is so high.

Look at the plastic fenders for the X7xx series garden tractors, 2 very small, thin, plastic fenders are priced at about $170 per set if I remember correctly. It's about 4 pounds of plastic, there isn't $170 worth of oil in those fenders.
Click to expand...

No...but what you're paying for is a rather expensive mold tool for a product that sells in a relatively low volume.
 
   / What wrong with this John deere picture. #10  
Replace ******* with "green tractor talk"
 
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