Tractor Sizing Is a John Deere 3320 too big for mowing a nice lawn

[meburdick]

If you go with the 3320 and unload the rear tires, remove fel or front weights the turf tires should do an okay job without much damage. I would figure out a way to keep the 345 to use instead imo. Nothing wrong with buying a larger tractor if you want it.

If you unload the rears, take off the BB, and don't have (or run without) an FEL, you're definitely minimizing impact that way (especially with Turfs). But, if you buy a 3320 with no FEL or BB and unload the rears, you're losing all of its ability to "be" a tractor.

In my opinion, if you're unloading (or not loading - used versus new) the rears of a 3320 because you want minimize its impact on the ground, then you're using too big of a machine to do what you need. Either scale down, or get a second machine that's much smaller to do the lighter work.

Basically, if you are spending more time manuvering than straight out mowing, its going to look bad.

And sure, the tractor is a good bit heavier than a conventional mower, but keep in mind that the added weight is also spread out over much larger tires too. The the imprint might not be much worse than a regular old mower.

Very true on both points.

I went from a GT to a 2320 with R4's, and there was a huge difference in compaction.

Gotcha. I suspect that you would have seen a little less "negative" impact with R3s, but the R4s have less actual rubber on the ground at any given time compared to R3s. So, the pressure transferred to the ground would have a higher PSI with the R4s and would do a little more compacting.

 

[WilliamBos]

The 3320 will be fine for mowing. Better to have one big tractor,one engi e to maintain. Plus you will be better off, since the diesel will be more efficient, use less fuel.

 

[cartod]

I have a 3320 and was considering getting rid of my x255 and using just one. My problem is that you have to turn a tractor into a sissy mower then back again for hard work. Besides the large mowing area of the big deck tends to scalp on the downhill side.

Keep them both!

 

[meburdick]

Besides the large mowing area of the big deck tends to scalp on the downhill side.

I had far more issues with scalp from the 42" riding mower (brand new in 2010) than I do with the 62D. I credit the reduced scalping to good placement by Deere of the anti-scalp wheel at the outboard corners and the fact that I use them at a respectable setting. Maybe there's some differences between the decks or how they're used that make them scalp more for some than for others.

 

[cuemark8]

I use a 3520 for finish mowing, but right right close to the house. I have a smaller zero turn too. I mow 3 bigger fields and bigger area of the yard. Sounds like you are wanting a 62" deck. May very well be a better choice than the 72". I have the 72" deck. My yard is decently level. About the only places it isn't is by the garage and house. House is kinda build up on higher ground and garage is kinda cut into a hillside.
The tractor mostly used for mowing. I have the 300X FEL and ballasted turf tires. One swampy part of the yard I usually can't mow with the 3520 it does rut thr ground up every time. I can and does sometimes leave small ruts in the field in early spring when the rains comes and ground stays wet.
Couple of things to consider. Is it open station or cab tractor? Cab tractor adds alot of extra weight! Actually bigest reason I didn't want a cab was something I don't see usually mentioned in forums. I got some pear and apple trees I mow around and they have low hanging branches. It would be total inconvience to have the cab and stuck at that height. I found myself often lowering the ROPS bar for tree limbs!
Also the tractor is heavy. I crushed a spotting drain pipe that is buried on the slope by the garage but surfaces further out. I mowed over it but the tires crushed the pipe! I mow the exact same way with the other mower and my previous mower and never had problems. Consider what is shallowly buried!
The FEL loader at alot of weight too, take it off to mow, or at least drop the bucket, loader arms can stay. It's pain with it on anyways.
Great tractor and mower, 3 years, no problems at all.

 

[tomd999]

Hiya,

You didn't mention if you have septic in the area that your mowing. If you do, I would not use anything larger than a 2x20 series to mow, and even that, I would think twice about mowing over the tank. There have been incidents of the tank top falling with fatal results.

I had a 2520 that I used to mow with but now I have a 3320 cab w/ loaded turfs and a loader, so it's pushing around 6K Lbs, no way I'm using that on the lawn.

I'm using a 318 for the lawn now. With a 48" deck it takes longer than the 2520 with a 5 foot RFM but it's so easy on the grass and gives a nice cut.

Tom

 

[meburdick]

I have a 2520 and a septic system. I would never DREAM of driving that machine over the tank (and the tank is brand new).

When you're talking about what the machine does to the ground, the 2520 (with turfs) has a great distribution of weight over a larger area of tire to control compaction. When you drive over a tank, there's a point where all of that weight is being distributed to the cover of the tank. And, regardless of how well it's distributed, it's still all on the cover. Way too risky for me. I will always own a 20" push mower to trim out a few corners that I simply can't get to with the 62D deck, and I'll spend the extra two minutes to mow over the tank by hand.

 

[GeorgeC]

I just traded in my 05' 3720 package in for a brand new 3720/300CX set up that I ordered back in March, except I now have a 72' Auto Connect deck.
Excellent tractor to mow with. I have roughly 7 acres of finish mowing to do. Rarely to never do I have problems with the tires sinking into the lawn unless it's very early spring, of after a few days of heavy rain around fresh top soil. Even then, the turfs float well. Just a little common sense, (which I have had desert me now and then), and you'll never have a problem.. Keep in mind that my tires are not loaded.

I don't see this tractor as being heavy at all, unless the bucket is attached. I drive over everything, and have never had a problem with pipes. If the plumbing in the ground was installed and back filled correctly to begin with, you should have no problem driving as pick up truck over it.

 

[jd670]

I have a 3320 with mid 72" 7 iron deck. I mow over my septic lines all the time with no problems. Yes it will leave tire marks if the ground is too wet, but no rutting thus far. My rears are filled and I have wheel weights. The cut to me rivals zero turn mowers. The golf course I frequent uses 4000 and 5000 series tractors to mow their fairways. They do have the Galaxy wide turfs on them. I never see them leave any ruts in the fairway though. I guess I'm saying it doesn't seem to matter a whole lot what tractor you use if it has the proper tire combo on it.

 

[concord maple]

I just traded in my 05' 3720 package in for a brand new 3720/300CX set up that I ordered back in March, except I now have a 72' Auto Connect deck.
Excellent tractor to mow with. I have roughly 7 acres of finish mowing to do. Rarely to never do I have problems with the tires sinking into the lawn unless it's very early spring, of after a few days of heavy rain around fresh top soil. Even then, the turfs float well. Just a little common sense, (which I have had desert me now and then), and you'll never have a problem.. Keep in mind that my tires are not loaded.

I don't see this tractor as being heavy at all, unless the bucket is attached. I drive over everything, and have never had a problem with pipes. If the plumbing in the ground was installed and back filled correctly to begin with, you should have no problem driving as pick up truck over it.

Been mowin over my septic system for years now with a 3120 with R4s. Tank has been dug up to pump several times during this time with no problems observed. Leach bed looks good with deep lush green grass as it should. Waiting for the new 3320 with cab to arrive this week.