used LA115 value?
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BrokeFarmerJohn
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- 2017 Mahindra 5555, John Blue G-1000, Massey Ferguson 98, John Deere GP
Around here $1000-$1400
If the LA115 is in excellent shape it’s worth around $700-$800
Blower around $200-$300
Plow is around $200
I have a L110 and a LA130 for sale now, it’s been over a week and I’m asking $750 for both, the L110 doesn’t run right now, the LA130 runs fine just needs paint and has 325 hours on it.
No takers yet.
If the LA115 is in excellent shape it’s worth around $700-$800
Blower around $200-$300
Plow is around $200
I have a L110 and a LA130 for sale now, it’s been over a week and I’m asking $750 for both, the L110 doesn’t run right now, the LA130 runs fine just needs paint and has 325 hours on it.
No takers yet.
I was told by the locals that with the attachments it was not worth more than $100.00.
Had the selling dealer change the original drive belt several years ago and the rear wheels are sloppy so.........
I have spend another $300.00 for more parts as they shipped the bloody thing from Canada with missing parts and I did not find that out until this year and that explains why the snow blower has never worked right after the first year and I cannot justify spending almost $180.00 for a driven belt every time from the local dealers-at least I can buy the belts and missing parts less expensively from the green parts store.
If this thing was a single stage on a gear drive JD318 I would not have any worries.
I might as well wait and bury in place when it croaks then. Should have bought the Japanese Kubota I wanted 38 years ago and been done with it.
I have to check in Farm show to find the fellow that rebuilds the Original IHC Cub cadets and sell them as I have to see if I can still buy a 1967 rebuilt cub with a single stage snow thrower from him.
Had the selling dealer change the original drive belt several years ago and the rear wheels are sloppy so.........
I have spend another $300.00 for more parts as they shipped the bloody thing from Canada with missing parts and I did not find that out until this year and that explains why the snow blower has never worked right after the first year and I cannot justify spending almost $180.00 for a driven belt every time from the local dealers-at least I can buy the belts and missing parts less expensively from the green parts store.
If this thing was a single stage on a gear drive JD318 I would not have any worries.
I might as well wait and bury in place when it croaks then. Should have bought the Japanese Kubota I wanted 38 years ago and been done with it.
I have to check in Farm show to find the fellow that rebuilds the Original IHC Cub cadets and sell them as I have to see if I can still buy a 1967 rebuilt cub with a single stage snow thrower from him.
mercdv
Silver Member
Unfortunately, you are judging all JD by the LA line. That line was designed to compete with the other brand equivalent crap in big box stores. It will function just as well as all the other big box store models of the same price range. Most still functioning LA models sell for nothing (right around $700-ish with average hours). If the snow blower isn't working that won't get you much at all. The blade and the chains might get you a little but it sounds like your best bet is to sell the mower and attachments separately to get you some cash to put into something else. I know that sucks but that is typically the path people end up going down with the JD box store line if they use it for more than just simple mowing on a flat yard. 
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BrokeFarmerJohn
Veteran Member
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- Oct 7, 2016
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- 2017 Mahindra 5555, John Blue G-1000, Massey Ferguson 98, John Deere GP
Unfortunately, you are judging all JD by the LA line. That line was designed to compete with the other brand equivalent crap in big box stores. It will function just as well as all the other big box store models of the same price range. Most still functioning LA models sell for nothing (right around $700-ish with average hours). If the snow blower isn't working that won't get you much at all. The blade and the chains might get you a little but it sounds like your best bet is to sell the mower and attachments separately to get you some cash to put into something else. I know that sucks but that is typically the path people end up going down with the JD box store line if they use it for more than just simple mowing on a flat yard.
I agree, the LA line is comparable to MTD tractors, I read MTD makes the LA line but I think that was a rumor.
Lawn mowers can’t be compared to Garden tractors. 318, 322, 332, 400 series, 4x5 series, 700 signature series are garden tractors, they are built for work and built to last but aren’t without problems.
Husqvarna is a good choice, they are very capable mowers, GT line. I have had multiple Husqvarna GT mowers, only sold my last one to buy a JD 455, it’s in a League of its own powered by a 3 cylinder yanmar Diesel engine.
I would not have bought it from the JD dealer in Big Flats if they said NO!!!!, It is too small for your needs and I will not sell it to you.
My father had one rule when selling unfinished furniture to customers: I want you to come back several times to make sure the piece you want to buy will work and fit where you want it to work for your needs.
According to JD these (*&^%&*( of crap are assembled in Lexington, Kentucky by John Deere.
If and when it croaks I will be going to a used Kubota BX1860 or BX2360 or a new BCS mule with attachments for the money I will have to spend as I will need to buy a catalytic converter, flail mower, 2 stage BERTA snowblower and a riding sulky for BCS mule if I buy one of the BCS models. I will need to purchase a catalytic converter for the Honda engine on the BCS mule too as the exhaust on these engines always made me sick.
My father had one rule when selling unfinished furniture to customers: I want you to come back several times to make sure the piece you want to buy will work and fit where you want it to work for your needs.
According to JD these (*&^%&*( of crap are assembled in Lexington, Kentucky by John Deere.
If and when it croaks I will be going to a used Kubota BX1860 or BX2360 or a new BCS mule with attachments for the money I will have to spend as I will need to buy a catalytic converter, flail mower, 2 stage BERTA snowblower and a riding sulky for BCS mule if I buy one of the BCS models. I will need to purchase a catalytic converter for the Honda engine on the BCS mule too as the exhaust on these engines always made me sick.
mercdv
Silver Member
If you aren't going to do all the work on it yourself, then make sure you buy a brand with a good dealer near you. A trustworthy dealer is just as important as the brand. You can go talk to them about your experience and your needs. Arm yourself with knowledge of what exactly will fit your needs and walk away from them if they try to sell you a too small machine or a way too big machine. A good GT (not LT) will be enough for mowing and snow removal. I wouldn't step up to the SCUT/CUT class unless you need to do some heavy lifting or have some acreage. Why? The weight difference of a SCUT/CUT can really compact your soil and limit the times you can mow. For example, after it rains you do not want to jump on the CUT and mow the house lawn until the lawn dries out a good amount, otherwise you could end up with ruts and torn up grass. I don't know what your property looks like but I'd only recommend a SCUT/CUT if you have other things in mind other than just mowing and snow removal. Their attachments tend to be a lot more expensive unless you get a sleeve hitch so you can use GT attachments but then you run the risk of destroying the attachment because they weren't designed for the higher horse power SCUT/CUT. Just some things to think about....sucks you had this bad experience.
Hello mercdv,
Thanks for your insight about this I appreciate it very much. I think its going to come down to a used sub compact mule that I can mount a rear mount Reist single stage snow blower on (16 inch auger/48 inch width) IF and when I can do it.
I found out the hard way that the consumer reports folks were right; buy a snow blower for snow and a lawn mower for mowing.
I planned on a used or new loader for the used BX as the snow can really get built up and pack down on both the old asphalt driveway and the second dirt driveway I have to keep up for the propane guys and to also use it to bring rice coal to the house for the coal stoker boiler.
I can live with a used older BX and the Riest single stage and also make money if and when the weather gets bad as I can just back it up on the trailer, lash it down and go easy enough but I am probably going to have a folding extension added to my landscape trailer ramp as it is a single axle 2 ton dump trailer and the angle of ascent to the dump bed is very steep.
One of the things I have to think about more are the pedals on the BX models and how well I can work with them while wearing sorrel boots too.
It may just come down to buying a Yamaha 824 walk behind next year and just hope that the JD lasts for a while longer.
Thanks for your insight about this I appreciate it very much. I think its going to come down to a used sub compact mule that I can mount a rear mount Reist single stage snow blower on (16 inch auger/48 inch width) IF and when I can do it.
I found out the hard way that the consumer reports folks were right; buy a snow blower for snow and a lawn mower for mowing.
I planned on a used or new loader for the used BX as the snow can really get built up and pack down on both the old asphalt driveway and the second dirt driveway I have to keep up for the propane guys and to also use it to bring rice coal to the house for the coal stoker boiler.
I can live with a used older BX and the Riest single stage and also make money if and when the weather gets bad as I can just back it up on the trailer, lash it down and go easy enough but I am probably going to have a folding extension added to my landscape trailer ramp as it is a single axle 2 ton dump trailer and the angle of ascent to the dump bed is very steep.
One of the things I have to think about more are the pedals on the BX models and how well I can work with them while wearing sorrel boots too.
It may just come down to buying a Yamaha 824 walk behind next year and just hope that the JD lasts for a while longer.
mercdv
Silver Member
Gotcha, I will say...be careful about what Consumer Reports says. They give good advice on somethings but HORRIBLE advice on other things.
My brother lives up north so he knows a lot of people with GT mounted blowers and blades. He has a walk behind blower and they run circles around him. The FEL is definitely worth it for moving large banks of snow but you can get a FEL for a lot of high end GT's. What I suggest...is do a ton of research before you decide. It is really hard to overload a FEL with a bucket full of snow because it just doesn't weigh that much compared to gravel or clay dirt. I'm not trying to talk you out of a SCUT/CUT but just keep an open mind on what you plan on doing for the end game. If you want to do more as far as landscaping then get a SCUT/CUT but for snow it is really hard to justify a SCUT/CUT unless you have a really long drive or private road. GT snow blowers actually work well as long as it is a nice unit and not one of the cheap ones. The main point...don't rush into a decision until you talk to some people who have what you are looking to get. I can't give you advice on snow removal because where I live we don't do it. Everything shuts down in my area when it snows. What would make me feel bad is if you bought way more than you needed and wasted money. It might turn out that you need to move all the way up to a CUT but I can't tell you because I haven't sat down with you and gone through all your scenarios. Good luck with it all...hope you find exactly what you need at the right price.
My brother lives up north so he knows a lot of people with GT mounted blowers and blades. He has a walk behind blower and they run circles around him. The FEL is definitely worth it for moving large banks of snow but you can get a FEL for a lot of high end GT's. What I suggest...is do a ton of research before you decide. It is really hard to overload a FEL with a bucket full of snow because it just doesn't weigh that much compared to gravel or clay dirt. I'm not trying to talk you out of a SCUT/CUT but just keep an open mind on what you plan on doing for the end game. If you want to do more as far as landscaping then get a SCUT/CUT but for snow it is really hard to justify a SCUT/CUT unless you have a really long drive or private road. GT snow blowers actually work well as long as it is a nice unit and not one of the cheap ones. The main point...don't rush into a decision until you talk to some people who have what you are looking to get. I can't give you advice on snow removal because where I live we don't do it. Everything shuts down in my area when it snows.
What would make me feel bad is if you bought way more than you needed and wasted money. It might turn out that you need to move all the way up to a CUT but I can't tell you because I haven't sat down with you and gone through all your scenarios. Good luck with it all...hope you find exactly what you need at the right price.
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Hello mercdv,
The way Consumer Reports tests the two stage snow blowers that they buy anonymously is in this way:
They pack two 10 cubic foot wheel barrows full of sawdust and wood shavings and then soak it completely with water until it becomes one solid mass of wood shavings and sawdust
They then dump both wheelbarrow loads one behind the other and then they operate the 2 stage snow blowers in the piles and and see how far the 2 stage units toss the soaked wood shavings and sawdust and then they measure the distance the glop is thrown and then start all over again for the next snow blower they are testing.
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I forgot to mention that I have replaced 4 chutes and spouts on the bloody thing as well and at $130.00+the cost of drive and driven belts times 2=$440.00, I could have put a nice down payment on a yamaha YT1028EJ track drive snow blower.
In order to use a standard V belt that is not a JD(RAD) metric belt I would have to spend even more money to have the pulleys machined to accept A116 V belts
-===============================================================================================================================
Been there done after 7 years of researching a coal stoker boiler.
The as(*&^*()holes that installed it screwed me over.
Keystoker and the dealer I bought it from are people I will never never never recommend to anyone to install a coal stoker boiler.
If anyone is looking to purchase a coal stoker boiler invest in an AHS S130 or S260 with the belt fan drive for the combustion air-fewer parts to screw up and the installation is much simpler than a keystoker and the boiler controls are much simpler to use.
================================================================
Tell your brother to purchase a couple of cans of fluid film and a can of slick plate paint for the chute and spout to prevent clogging and he will have zero problems after that.
Tell him to paint the chute and spout and auger housing with a couple of coats of slick plate paint and to purchase an impeller kit to improve his snow blower and and he will no longer have problems.
Spraying everything with fluid film that contacts snow in the off season with 4 or 5 coats of fluid film will help him tremendously.
If he has a ski shop nearby he can purchase ski wax and coat the snow blower chute and spout and also improve the power of the snow blower he owns.
By using slick plate paint or fluid film spray or ski wax he will double or triple his snow throwing distance.
You can buy slick plate paint at tractor supply and fluid film spray at a NAPA store.
The way Consumer Reports tests the two stage snow blowers that they buy anonymously is in this way:
They pack two 10 cubic foot wheel barrows full of sawdust and wood shavings and then soak it completely with water until it becomes one solid mass of wood shavings and sawdust
They then dump both wheelbarrow loads one behind the other and then they operate the 2 stage snow blowers in the piles and and see how far the 2 stage units toss the soaked wood shavings and sawdust and then they measure the distance the glop is thrown and then start all over again for the next snow blower they are testing.
================================================================================================================================================================================================
I forgot to mention that I have replaced 4 chutes and spouts on the bloody thing as well and at $130.00+the cost of drive and driven belts times 2=$440.00, I could have put a nice down payment on a yamaha YT1028EJ track drive snow blower.
In order to use a standard V belt that is not a JD(RAD) metric belt I would have to spend even more money to have the pulleys machined to accept A116 V belts
-===============================================================================================================================
Been there done after 7 years of researching a coal stoker boiler.
The as(*&^*()holes that installed it screwed me over.
Keystoker and the dealer I bought it from are people I will never never never recommend to anyone to install a coal stoker boiler.
If anyone is looking to purchase a coal stoker boiler invest in an AHS S130 or S260 with the belt fan drive for the combustion air-fewer parts to screw up and the installation is much simpler than a keystoker and the boiler controls are much simpler to use.
================================================================
Tell your brother to purchase a couple of cans of fluid film and a can of slick plate paint for the chute and spout to prevent clogging and he will have zero problems after that.
Tell him to paint the chute and spout and auger housing with a couple of coats of slick plate paint and to purchase an impeller kit to improve his snow blower and and he will no longer have problems.
Spraying everything with fluid film that contacts snow in the off season with 4 or 5 coats of fluid film will help him tremendously.
If he has a ski shop nearby he can purchase ski wax and coat the snow blower chute and spout and also improve the power of the snow blower he owns.
By using slick plate paint or fluid film spray or ski wax he will double or triple his snow throwing distance.
You can buy slick plate paint at tractor supply and fluid film spray at a NAPA store.
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