Well, I just bought a 790 2wd. It costs me 8013 for the tractor, 1050 for the LX5(Less rear safety shield) and 647 for the 60 inch Frontier Box Blade BB2260? including a 300 rebate for the two implements. I have 5 to 10 acres to bushhog and a 2 acre yard. Tractor had 3tnv82a engine 27hp or 1.3l instead of 1.5liter 3tne84A version. Two questions - Did I get a good deal ? and what is the best way to get maximum life out of the little tractor...should I run the LX5 at 2200 rpm or up to the 2600-2700 range...does the diesel yanmar engine wear more at the higher rpms or do most people just run at full rated rpm hp like 2700 rpms....
Price Check John Deere 790 pricing / operating
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RoyJackson
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Other then I think you'll be sorry you didn't go for a MFWD model, the price sounds OK. I expect the tractor will do OK for the brush cutting but not so good for the box blade work. You'll run out of traction pretty quick. If the rear tires aren't loaded, you'll want to consider that.
For the brush cutting, use the RPM indicated for the PTO (2600-2700). That RPM won't hurt the tractor. Anyway, I doubt if you put more then 100 hours on it a year (on the average).
BTW, since you didn't get a loader, you'll want weights on the front of that tractor if you intend to lift that box blade or cutter. You can just lift the front of the cutter (letting the tail wheel take most the weight) when you're transporting, but you'll have to lift that box blade.
I also have the 27 HP engine. There is only 1 HP difference between the 1.5 liter engine and the 1.3 liter engine at the PTO (25 vs. 24). I doubt if you or I would notice any difference in operation, but I've never operated the 1.5 liter engine. I did have a Deere 670 with a .83 liter Yanmar engine for a few years. Those little Yanmar engines are quite robust. The 670 is a predecessor to the 790. That was a tough little machine. My 790 is just as tough and a little more capable.
Just change the engine oil per the manual (or, as I do, change it annually if you don't put that many hours on it per year) and watch the temperature gage when you're cutting that brush. Neither of the tractors I've owned ever went above ¼ scale of the temperature gage even when working hard.
For the brush cutting, use the RPM indicated for the PTO (2600-2700). That RPM won't hurt the tractor. Anyway, I doubt if you put more then 100 hours on it a year (on the average).
BTW, since you didn't get a loader, you'll want weights on the front of that tractor if you intend to lift that box blade or cutter. You can just lift the front of the cutter (letting the tail wheel take most the weight) when you're transporting, but you'll have to lift that box blade.
I also have the 27 HP engine. There is only 1 HP difference between the 1.5 liter engine and the 1.3 liter engine at the PTO (25 vs. 24). I doubt if you or I would notice any difference in operation, but I've never operated the 1.5 liter engine. I did have a Deere 670 with a .83 liter Yanmar engine for a few years. Those little Yanmar engines are quite robust. The 670 is a predecessor to the 790. That was a tough little machine. My 790 is just as tough and a little more capable.
Just change the engine oil per the manual (or, as I do, change it annually if you don't put that many hours on it per year) and watch the temperature gage when you're cutting that brush. Neither of the tractors I've owned ever went above ¼ scale of the temperature gage even when working hard.
Well, I live in Louisiana and all the property where I am is high and dry; but I did have second thoughts about the 4wd option and you may be right in the long run, but they wouldn't go down that much on the 4wd. I'm glad the HP is ok and other than ocassionally spreading some dirt, the work with the box blade will be minimum. I am going to get the weights for the front. I had been using an old Ford 1910 which was a bit bigger. The 990 however seemed to be too big and more than I needed especially to use in and around the yard. I'll go ahead and raise the rpms up on the brush cutting; so far I like the little tractor and think it will last me many years...thanks
_RaT_
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My neighbor has a 790 with a box scraper and mower. He mows almost 95% of the time and almost always in 2WD. If that is your main desire, you should be fine. In the manual it does show that you can load the front tires so I did it for him. Granted the tires are quite small and we maybe picked up 60lbs in each tire but it did help an otherwise very light front end deal with a 5' wide Brush Hog mower. He has the loader off. I concour with you to get some weight on the front end has you mentioned was your plan.
Ledgemere Farm
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On a small tractor, 4WD is necessary if you are using a loader. You may have a little trouble with that box blade like Roy says, but you will learn how to work your three point hitch in the process. When you start losing traction, lift the hitch up just enough to keep you moving. You may need to make a couple of extra passes, but you will be OK for sure.
Look at it this way, you have less moving parts to wear out. You won't have to service the front end and the rib tires are cheap to replace.
You can eather load the tires or get wheel weights. Wheel weights are expensive, but I personally like them. Do yourself a favor and buy some 42lb quik-tatch weights for the front. That rotary cutter is going to be heavy.
$8013 is a good price for a BRAND NEW machine.
Follow the maintenance in your manual. Change your engine oil every year, let your machine warm up before you start working it and keep it under cover.
/forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif
Look at it this way, you have less moving parts to wear out. You won't have to service the front end and the rib tires are cheap to replace.
You can eather load the tires or get wheel weights. Wheel weights are expensive, but I personally like them. Do yourself a favor and buy some 42lb quik-tatch weights for the front. That rotary cutter is going to be heavy.
$8013 is a good price for a BRAND NEW machine.
Follow the maintenance in your manual. Change your engine oil every year, let your machine warm up before you start working it and keep it under cover.
/forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif
Varmintmist
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I had a 2wd 850 which was a 22 hp about the same size as yours.
You need front weight. Load the tires, put weights on the weight bar, a chunk of railroad track, boxcar,whatever /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif
You might want to look into loading the rears for traction also.
As to hogging, rpm depends on what you are cutting and how fast you want to go. I have hogged with a 950 (27 hp) and dont think I ever ran over 2K rpm. Just geared down some. You start cutting really nasty brush you will have to crank her up. Dont worry, you probably wont blow it up /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif I never managed to /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif
You need front weight. Load the tires, put weights on the weight bar, a chunk of railroad track, boxcar,whatever /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif
You might want to look into loading the rears for traction also.
As to hogging, rpm depends on what you are cutting and how fast you want to go. I have hogged with a 950 (27 hp) and dont think I ever ran over 2K rpm. Just geared down some. You start cutting really nasty brush you will have to crank her up. Dont worry, you probably wont blow it up /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif I never managed to /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif
_RaT_
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<font color="green">I had a 2wd 850 which was a 22 hp about the same size as yours.
You need front weight. Load the tires, put weights on the weight bar, a chunk of railroad track, boxcar,whatever
You might want to look into loading the rears for traction also.
As to hogging, rpm depends on what you are cutting and how fast you want to go. I have hogged with a 950 (27 hp) and dont think I ever ran over 2K rpm. Just geared down some. You start cutting really nasty brush you will have to crank her up. Dont worry, you probably wont blow it up I never managed to
</font>
Great comments!
You need front weight. Load the tires, put weights on the weight bar, a chunk of railroad track, boxcar,whatever
You might want to look into loading the rears for traction also.
As to hogging, rpm depends on what you are cutting and how fast you want to go. I have hogged with a 950 (27 hp) and dont think I ever ran over 2K rpm. Just geared down some. You start cutting really nasty brush you will have to crank her up. Dont worry, you probably wont blow it up I never managed to
</font>
Great comments!
I really like this forum- gives you a lot of info and I appreciate all the comments; I talked to the local dealer who suggested 4 of the quick attach weights for the front at 36 bucks each (about 160 lbs) ; I'm going to get them this week after work. The tractor was brand new (4 tenths of an hour) advertised for 8399 in Baton Rouge, La; saw another add in Houston, Tx for 8499 as a JD special for Spring. I had a young saleman and he knocked the price down to 8013 which included the 300 rebate when I agreed to buy the LX5 and Frontier Blade still at reasonable costs. I tried to satisfy myself what I gave up on the 4wd was worth it; lowest I've seen those was about 12,500 here. I do miss having a 2 stage clutch that I had on the Ford but I'm learning to work around that by backing bushhog up in a lower gear to get under tree limbs. I'd like to get one of the grille or hood guards next and rig up some type of canopy long term.
RoyJackson
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"One thing I haven't asked about and did not know enough to even mention was loading the rear tires. What is the best thing to put in them to avoid corrosion and how much should you use for weight?"
My tires have windshield washer fluid in them. This is non-corrosive but isn't as heavy as CaCl.
Since your machine is 2WD, I think you going to need the heaviest liquid you can find at a cost effective price. I'm sure you'll read about Rimguard and foam filled tires....do a search on TBN. I don't know much about those two options other then what I've read here.
Personally, I think CaCl will be your best bet, considering cost to weight. Remember, there's a heck of a lot of tractors using CaCL and have had those tires filled for decades.
Filling them can be done at home, but unless you have some mechanical skills, this might be a better job for your dealer.
Another way to add weight is wheel weights. You can buy these (expensive) or fabricate them yourself. Your manual should give you good direction on this.
BTW, what kind of tires did you get on your 790?
My tires have windshield washer fluid in them. This is non-corrosive but isn't as heavy as CaCl.
Since your machine is 2WD, I think you going to need the heaviest liquid you can find at a cost effective price. I'm sure you'll read about Rimguard and foam filled tires....do a search on TBN. I don't know much about those two options other then what I've read here.
Personally, I think CaCl will be your best bet, considering cost to weight. Remember, there's a heck of a lot of tractors using CaCL and have had those tires filled for decades.
Filling them can be done at home, but unless you have some mechanical skills, this might be a better job for your dealer.
Another way to add weight is wheel weights. You can buy these (expensive) or fabricate them yourself. Your manual should give you good direction on this.
BTW, what kind of tires did you get on your 790?