2320 w/ 62D or 2520 with rear finish mower?

[GordNovo]

Hello,

I'm this close... " " to upgrading to a 2320 (from a 2305).. and I've been thinkin'.......

I was able to convince my wife that I need a bigger tractor (the hardest part ) and she's agreed to let me spend a little bit more to get the 2320 with the 62D MMM.

From what I've been reading about the divot problems with the 62D, I'm wondering if this is really the deck that I want. So instead, I'm considering going to an off-brand rear finish mower and taking the $$ savings and put it towards a 2520. The problem is I've never used a rear finish mower and I don't know if it'll do as good of a job as the 62D. I could probably find a used rear finish mower with enough dough to fund the bigger 2520.

Our yard isn't perfectly manacured, but more of a rural, ranch kinda place. I have about an acre of sod-originating lawn around the house, another 7 acres of pastures I may need to mow maybe 2-3 times per year. The pastures are flat and relatively smooth. Plus i have ditching with quackgrass around the entire perimeter of our 10 acre yard with fairly steep slopes leading up to a dyke. Right now, I can get the 2305 to cut the slopes with a 62C with relative ease as long as I go slow.

I know the 2320 would give me a big performance boost over the 2305 but the extra power of the 2520 would come in very handy with all the extra tasks in the yard (manure moving, occaisional plowing of the corals, square bale moving, driveway building, etc, etc.)

My questions is will a rear finish mower do a comparable job to the 62D? Are there any inherent issues/dilemnas with going to a rear finish mower instead of a belly mower?

Another question in my mind is how well will the 2520 do with the steep slopes compared to the 2320. They seem to be approx the same size but the 2520 is a little heavier. I'm not sure if this would be good or bad on the slopes.

If I decide that a rear finish mower will work well in my application, I may go to the 2520.

Thanks!

GordNovo

 

[RoyJackson]

If you don't have many obstacles (house, trees, shrubs, etc.), the rear mower is probably the way to go. They're cheaper then a mid mount and easier rig to the 3PH. As far as cut quality...no difference.
As far as the pasture, a finishing mower may not be optimal. You might want to consider a rotary cutter instead. Your current 2305 has 18 PTO HP, so you could use a 60" cutter if you operate at a reasonable speed and don't let the field grasses get too high.


"I was able to convince my wife that I need a bigger tractor (the hardest part ) and she's agreed to let me spend a little bit more to get the 2320 with the 62D MMM."
"I know the 2320 would give me a big performance boost over the 2305 but the extra power of the 2520 would come in very handy with all the extra tasks in the yard (manure moving, occaisional plowing of the corals, square bale moving, driveway building, etc, etc.)"

There's only a 2 HP difference between the 2305 and 2520, so you're not going to see too much of a difference in power. The 2320 and 2305 have the same power ratings. I didn't go through all the specs and options, but you might want to dig in a bit more before you make any decision.
You might want to read this thread. One thing we at TBN toss around a lot is how much the 3PH can lift. Well, my cutter is the biggest implement I have. It goes about 650 lbs. So, how much do you really need to lift?


As far as the slopes, I've no idea which would be better. I can say my 790 feels more stable then the old 670 did. That's probably due to the greater weight of the 790's larger tires (filled). Of course, it's also probably due to my being more comfortable operating a tractor on a slope (experience does help).


Personally, I don't see much need to upgrade. You're not getting much of a power increase even with the 2520 (when I went to the 790, there was a 8 PTO HP increase). However, since you have quite a bit of acreage to mow, you might just want to take a bigger step to a 3120 or 3320 (my preference is the 3320 with Power Reverser).

 

[orlo]

I Agree with Roy. The 2320 is no more powerful (enginewise) than the 2305. It does have more lifting capacity on the loader (Due to 2400psi hydraulics vs just under 2000psi), and more 3pt lift capacity but actually has less pulling power than a 2305 due to the same engine but higher ground speeds (ratios). Don't take this to mean it has less 'effective' pulling power (traction). Also the hydraulics on the 2320 are only marginally faster (flow) than on the 2305 (The 2520 is about double the 2305 - Much faster). The huge difference is GROUND CLEARANCE. The 2305 doesn't have much, and has even less with the mower brackets hanging down low. The 2320 has much more due to the larger tires.

It does have bigger axles, wheels, full cat 1 lift height, cruise, etc. and is well worth the extra 2k over the 2305 but you'll probably end up mowing slower. There are several posts here that claim the high range on the 2320 is too high to mow so your stuck mowing in low. I can personally speak for the 2305 (I have a 2305 and a 3320) and the 2305 will mow flat out in high range with the 62C deck. Unless the grass is very high (like a foot) you'll never have to slow down due to power - only to not roll over and bounce off the tractor over bumps. Also, the 62C mower on the 2305 suffers none of the divot problems of the 62D and goes on and off in a flash.

If you really need something bigger, unless physical size of the tractor is a problem, the price of a 2520 is so close to the 3000 series I'd get a 3320.
(That was my exact logic when I got my 3320. I was actually going to get a 790 but I couldn't get the 72"MMM deck on that).

As far as pull behind mowers. I'm no expert, but while I was waiting for my 72"MMM on the 3320 the dealer lent me an 84" Woods RFM. The cut quality was superb and it distributed the clippings nicely. Adjusting the height was a pain in the butt but it was a nice mower. Also, I don't have many trees and found that manuvering it was no problem at all. I would easily consider a RFM in a heartbeat if the opportunity arose again. After using the 84 on my 3320 I actually thought I could have gotten a 990 with a large RFM. I didn't consider the 990 due to no Mid PTO (no MMM).

Note that most of the RFM's spin at a blade tip speed of the high 14,000's (Usually just under 15,000 to 16,000. The 72" 7 Iron MMM (3000 series) runs at over 18,000 ft/min (Not sure what the 62C and 62D run at) so theoretically you couldn't cut at quite the same speed with the same quality but I also think that side discharge units need a higher blade speed (and flow) just to keep the clippings flowing whereas a RFM doesn't. I found the quality on the 84 just fine. Also it was very convenient to cut under branches, etc. where I couldn't possibly drive the tractor with a MMM. With the RFM I could either drive by and swing it or back up and mow. Just be carefull turning when close to your house/cars, it would be easy to swing a RFM into a car, house, fence or anything if your not careful.

My 2 cents.

 

[LBrown59]

You can reach out over ditches and banks to mow with a RFM.
Can't do that with a MMM.

 

[jcmseven]

GordNovo,

A 2520 has some advantages. It is direct injected and has about 10 ft.lb. more torque at rated speed than either the 2305 or the 2320. It is longer and has a longer wheelbase, making it more stable on hills and when hauling or doing loader work. The difference is noticeable. Also, my opinion is if your yard is open, a RFM is a better choice. They cut better, disperse clippings better and are a snap to remove/install v. the center mount decks, even the 62 on ramps. To me, unless one has a lot of trees and such, the RFM is the better choice. I really recommend spending a little extra on a higher quality RFM. Some of the cheaper ones have lower blade tip speeds and do not cut as well. Keep the blade tip speed at 16,000 or so if you can, and faster is better. 14,000 is the minimum if one wants a nice cut making any time while mowing. The 2320 is a step up from the 2305 in several areas, mainly in ground engagement capability. It is not a lot more machine for mowing, so to make the trade worth it I would go no smaller than a 2520, and bigger if you can afford to do so.

John M

 

[GordNovo]

Thanks for all the suggestions everyone. I went for the 2520 and the Buhler 5ft RFM. The upgrade to the 2520 cost me an extra grand from the the 2320 once I downgraded from the 62D MMM.

The dealer delivered this evening. I putzed around the yard before nightfall. What an amazing machine.

The simplest way to state the difference is that the 2520 feels more 'tractor-ish'. The extra power is quite noticable. I strapped on the 5ft s-tine cultivator and hit the coral. I sunk the cultivator almost to the frame and moved along in low. I did circles in the coral for a few minutes and I couldn't reach the limits of the motor, whereas with the 2305, when it starts to bog down, I'd feel it in the HST pedal and the pace would virtually stop. That doesn't happen with the 2520. The big tires are a plus. The industrials seem to dig in nicely in the loose dry dirt/manure. Plus I like seeing them spin beside me

The loader is lightning quick! Gonna have to get used to that. With the slower hydrolics on the 2305, I think I got a little sloppy in my joystick control. Now with a more responsive FEL, I'll need to learn to 'finesse' it a little. I moved a few boulders around, with one weighing approx 4-500 lbs. Even without any ballast on the back, it felt a heckuva lot more stable. When moving around with the weight, I didn't hear the motor strain from the added weight when I was driving in low.

Tried out the industrial tires on the lawn by doing some some tight circles in 2 WD - it left no marks. Did the same in 4 WD and it left a few rings behind. I like the light on the dash that tells you it's in 4X4. This makes it way easier to monitor what mode I'm in when I end up working on the lawn.

I have a 7 ft door on the hayshed, its resting place. It just fits through the door with the ROPS still up

Man is it fast! When going full throttle down the road, my hair being blown by the rush of moving air.

The fuel cap sticks above the hood a little more than the 2305, so unscrewing the cap isn't as much of a hassle. From empty to full, I could put in a whole gerry can (20 L) instead of leaving a little sloshing in the bottom of the can.

It starts quicker and doesn't rattle at all when I start it or shut it off compared to the 2305.

There are a couple of things I noticed that I'd like to change. The hump on the floor doesn't seem to bother me but I find the operators position a little cramped compared to the 2305. I wish I could move the seat back a couple of inches. The floor panels see a little wobbly on either side of the operator's deck and it makes a little noise when I mount/dismount. The rubber mat looks like it could easily trap dirt or sand and scratch the finish of the floor panels.

I have yet to test it on the slopes and with the RFM. That'll come tomorrow!

All and all, I'm extremely stoked over the machine so far. I can't wait to put it to use, at my place and in the neighborhood!

GordNovo

 

[Chris2520]

GordNovo , congrats on new tractor. you made the right choice. your going to love it. welcome to the 2520 club... I got the answer to a couple of your dislikes. i had them and took care of it. First off. the way to take some of the slop out of your joy stick is , look at the bolt that holds the joy stick to the hydrolic valve. it has a 10mm bolt in it with a nut on it. it is to small . the hole in the joy stick is a 1/4 inch in size. get a 1/4 inch bolt same length as the 10mm that came in it. and that will help. it wont take all out . but it makes quite a difference. i fixed mine. and its alot tighter than it was. and 2 the dang floor boards. I hated this. So i fixed it. its simple... lay under the tractor and look there is 3 pins comeing out of each floor board going through thick cushy rubber mounts through the frame. with small hitch pins holding it. while you are under the tractor. reach up and pull down on the floor board. and you will see it squeesh down. and a 1/4 inch gap will come between the rubber and the hitch pins that holds it. take the hitch pin out put 3 , 3/8 washers on each pin while pulling down on the floor board. and put the pin back in. do all 3 on each side. and your floor boards will be tight. not solid like bolted. but not wobbly anymore. you will still have plenty of dampening.
Good luck...

Chris....

 

[Runner]

Gord,

I, for one, am on the edge of my seat, particularly since I'm on the verge of buying the same basic rig you have. So, how is the rear finish mower working out on the 2520 and how is it handling the hills?

Runner

 

[GordNovo]

Hi Runner

Sorry for the delay.. missed your post

Well I gave a quick assessment in another post, but I can repeat here as well so others see it too.....

I've got a 60" Buhler RFM :

Finishing Mowers - Buhler Industries Inc.

I'm extremely happy with it. It is especially good on hills, like the ditch. I find that when I'm going over the dips and bends and assorted contours of our burm and ditches, it does an absolute perfect job. I haven't experienced any scalping yet, mainly becuase it rides on its own wheels which are situated at the corners of the deck. Plus even if the tractor bumps and jolts up and down from ruts, the deck seems much smoother since the swivel levers on the 3ph accomodate any up-down movement.

LBrown59's suggestion of reaching over the ditches is a good one too. There are some places, like the culvert where the tractor just won't go, but with the RFM I just backout over the edge and voila.. perfect cut. The swivel system on the deck frame works extremely well.

Here's something else: It's extremely easy to clean. Raise the 3ph all the way, lock the lever, add a 20" 2X4 as a safety and crawl under to clean. You can do this easily in a place in the yard where you could leave the scrapings where they fall, unlike my previous 62C where you had to do it in the garage cuz you have to drop the deck off the tractor and roll it out sideways, then bust a nut flipping it over, clean the muck and sweep up the mess.. then re-install the deck to the tractor.

Also there's cornering....I find it infinitely easier to maintain nice rounded corners in the feild with the RFM compared to a belly mower. Also, swinging the back end out is a snap to get to the tight corners and i find using the independent brakes on the lawn doesn't do damage cuz the tire actually stops rotating when the brake is depressed.

I've even cut tall dry grasses in the ditch with it at my neighbors down the road and it did an excellent job. The added depth of the RFM deck means you have a lot more capacity for clippings and much less chance of clogging. When i had the 62C, I took off the black deflector on the side on my second use becuase it seems to inhibit the flow of the clippings. This is no longer a problem with an RFM.

Oh, one other thing.. with the discharge behind the deck, you can mow in either direction, with no worry about discarding the clippings on the not-yet-cut grass.

Looking back at my previous dilemna, I'd say going for a RFM is a no-brainer decision now.

Good luck with your decisions.

Gord

 

[Runner]

Thanks Gord, excellent report.

Do you find that you have enough mower extending beyond the wheels of the tractor that you can comfortably trim along fences, buildings, etc., without having to get too close with the tractor?

Also, do you find that you need front weights to counter balance the rear finish mower when it is supported from the three-point (or any other times)?

Thanks.