JD 100 Series Vs. 300 Series

   / JD 100 Series Vs. 300 Series #1  

Atlas

Bronze Member
Joined
Jun 6, 2006
Messages
72
Location
Michigan
Tractor
Kubota B3030 HSDC
My MTD has given it up after eleven years of service. Now I'm looking at John Deere for a replacement. Although the price is a factor I could afford the X304 if it sounds like it is a much more durable machine.

From what I have read here it seems the 100's should last about ten years. One person commented that they hope to get 15 years from it and another had the dealer tell him 8 years.

With the 300 series there hasn't been any talk about longevity (forgive me if I missed that post). Is the X300 built so much more stout that lifespan isn't an issue?

I have 1 acre with trees and would be bagging the leaves in the fall and grass in the summer (when I let the lawn get out of control).

Thanks.
 
   / JD 100 Series Vs. 300 Series #2  
You will get what you pay for.
Some will get more mileage (hours) out of the same rig (whatever the brand) than others, simply because they take care of it differently.

Deere can make the cheaper ones to compete for market share. They do it well, and they are good tractors.
 
   / JD 100 Series Vs. 300 Series #4  
I bought the LA175 model. For the same price I could have had a smaller cut 300 series but with @ 2.5 acres to mow wanted the 54" cut. The 300 series according to my dealer is supposed to last twice as long as the 100 series.
 
   / JD 100 Series Vs. 300 Series #6  
I think you get the Kawi motor for starters. You need to look underneath and compare trannys, belt size, etc...

I wish I had stepped up to a 304 but they didn't offer it the season I bought my LT180. I only got the 42" deck so that I could run a grass catcher. It works great on the fall leaves but I usually don't bag my clippings.
 
   / JD 100 Series Vs. 300 Series #7  
I have the L130 with 48" deck and Kohler 23hp motor and I think this compares with the LX165. I can mow an acre in a little less than an hour if I keep up with it. It works fairly well but I would rather have a 300 series or better because the reverse pedal on the 100 series is a PITA. I will most likely move up to diesel mower next time with aws.
 
   / JD 100 Series Vs. 300 Series #8  
I have the L130 with 48" deck and Kohler 23hp motor and I think this compares with the LX165. I can mow an acre in a little less than an hour if I keep up with it. It works fairly well but I would rather have a 300 series or better because the reverse pedal on the 100 series is a PITA. I will most likely move up to diesel mower next time with aws.

I have a L(emon)-130 too because that's all the budget would allow. I too hate the pedal arrangement on my L-130. Although I only have about 60+ hours on it, I'm on my third mower deck belt, also a mower idler pulley bracket literally broke in my hand, and the electric PTO clutch (~$150 parts only) puked at 56-hours. They are thirsty and backfire on shutdown until you learn the trick of having the engine a few RPM above idle before shutting it off. Granted, I'm cutting green weeds with mine; but it should hold up better than it has.

Picasa Web Albums - Matt - John Deere L1...#

I believe the X300 & X500 are belt driven and use electric PTO clutches. I would go to www.jdparts.com and check the part numbers and prices of the electric clutches to see if they are the same between the "L" & "X" series. However if you can afford an X300 series, I'd go that route. If you decide on an "L" series, try and buy it from a dealer instead of 'Big Box Mart' as the dealer is the same price as BBM, at least in Colorado they are. Plus if you need service, the dealer will probably be more willing to fix a machine bought from them instead of BBM, which sticks the dealers with warranty work.

If I had my way, I'd have an X700-series diesel AWS for its shaft drive and hydraulic PTO, or a 455 AWS, which are almost impossible to find in Colorado.
 
   / JD 100 Series Vs. 300 Series #9  
I had an L120 for several years. I never had any issues with it.
 
   / JD 100 Series Vs. 300 Series #10  
15 years ago I was in the same situation. Instead of the 172, I went with the GT275. Last Summer I had to purchase a valve kit to rebuild a failed valve. Other than belts, it is the ONLY issue I have ever had, and I mow 3 acres with it. I also beat on it pretty good before I got my CUT.

If you want a tractor that will last 15 years, get the 300. If you are going to want a new one in 10, get the 100.

FYI you can get a 300 cheap on Craigslist. I see them all the time...
 
 
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