BruceWard
Platinum Member
I am making progress but would appreciate any advice.
I am aware of and using tips from these two threads
LX178 quits/won't run until cool - TractorByNet.com
and
http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/.../170236-lx279-fuel-problem-17-horsepower.html
I have not checked for a broken wire under the battery but will do so. I charged the battery before my first attempt at mowing.
I bought a LX279 (17HP, water cooled, Kawasaki FD501V) last week. I mowed a large area at the sellers house and it ran great. My yard is mostly 10 degree plus slopes. I brought it home and tried to mow on the slope. It would die going up, down or across the slopes. Several mechanic friends who have looked at it believe the problem to be fuel delivery. When it dies it will run on choke or not at all once restarted. When it would not run at all we found that it would run if we removed the air filter and blocked off the intake. The fuel filter typically has very little gas in it. Fuel runs backward through the filter when the engine is turned off.
The seller told me that the carb was professionally cleaned this spring. My guess is that he left gas in it over the winter.
This is what I have done so far.
1. Replaced all fuel hoses and fuel filter. All three hoses from the tank to the filter, from the filter to the pump and from the pump to the carb.
After this it ran great with a strong idle at minimum throttle on level ground but died after about 100' of mowing on the slope. Gave up on driving it up the slope and towed it up the hill.
2. Verified that voltage was being sent to the carb fuel cut off solenoid. Then removed the solenoid to check its functionality. I found that it had been cut and was only functioning as a plug. I discusses this with the local small engine shop who said the solenoid only prevented back fires and they cut them off all the time.
3. Added 1.5 ounces of sea foam per gallon to the fuel and sprayed blaster lawn mower tune-up into the air intake while running (two 5 second bursts). Left the mower running at 50% throttle to work sea foam through engine. It died about 20 minutes later.
4. Gave it time to cool down and decided to test fuel pump output. I expected about an ounce a minute so I disconnected the output from the carb and placed the hose in a one fluid ounce syringe. It filled in a few seconds. After reconnecting the fuel hose it would not maintain seal with the original clamp so I replaced both clamps between the pump and carb.
I started and let it run at 50% again. It ran for about 30 minutes this time.
After letting it cool down I took it back to the slope. It died a few times but I was able to mow 400 feet or so before retreating up the hill to flat ground. The second or third time it died we were not able to start it without removing the air filter and blocking the intake. After it started I was able to mow a little more and then go back up the hill. I found that it ran better at about 50% to 66% throttle on the hill.
5. Gave it two more five second bursts of blaster lawn mower tune-up. Then removed the rear metal cover and changed the remaining clamps. I also pulled the fuel pickup and found it to be complete and clean. Careful if you do this, the fuel flow from the pump to the filter is gravity feed so it will flow out quickly.
At this point I took it to another slope area and mowed perhaps 500 feet before it died. I was able to restart with the choke on. I finished mowing and nursed it up the hill with the choke on. I had mowed at about 66% throttle.
6. Used a water hose to wash out the radiator. I tried to remove it but decided that was a larger project than I had time for today. The radiator appeared clean before I used the hose. It is mounted horizontally on top of the engine. A large fan under the radiator pulls air through it and out the front. The air flow through the radiator was significant before and after the cleaning. While running with the engine warm the air coming out is warmer than the ambient air.
I started it and it has been running at about 50% throttle for the last 75 minutes. The engine temperature warning has not come on. I am trying to let it burn through the sea foam in the tank.
The hood was broken so I am running without any hood at all. I plan to find one once I have the mechanical issues worked out. The ignition switch was not working well. I cleaned and tightened it and it seems fine now. The starter often spins but does not engage. Cleaning the starter is on my to do list.
I am aware of and using tips from these two threads
LX178 quits/won't run until cool - TractorByNet.com
and
http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/.../170236-lx279-fuel-problem-17-horsepower.html
I have not checked for a broken wire under the battery but will do so. I charged the battery before my first attempt at mowing.
I bought a LX279 (17HP, water cooled, Kawasaki FD501V) last week. I mowed a large area at the sellers house and it ran great. My yard is mostly 10 degree plus slopes. I brought it home and tried to mow on the slope. It would die going up, down or across the slopes. Several mechanic friends who have looked at it believe the problem to be fuel delivery. When it dies it will run on choke or not at all once restarted. When it would not run at all we found that it would run if we removed the air filter and blocked off the intake. The fuel filter typically has very little gas in it. Fuel runs backward through the filter when the engine is turned off.
The seller told me that the carb was professionally cleaned this spring. My guess is that he left gas in it over the winter.
This is what I have done so far.
1. Replaced all fuel hoses and fuel filter. All three hoses from the tank to the filter, from the filter to the pump and from the pump to the carb.
After this it ran great with a strong idle at minimum throttle on level ground but died after about 100' of mowing on the slope. Gave up on driving it up the slope and towed it up the hill.
2. Verified that voltage was being sent to the carb fuel cut off solenoid. Then removed the solenoid to check its functionality. I found that it had been cut and was only functioning as a plug. I discusses this with the local small engine shop who said the solenoid only prevented back fires and they cut them off all the time.
3. Added 1.5 ounces of sea foam per gallon to the fuel and sprayed blaster lawn mower tune-up into the air intake while running (two 5 second bursts). Left the mower running at 50% throttle to work sea foam through engine. It died about 20 minutes later.
4. Gave it time to cool down and decided to test fuel pump output. I expected about an ounce a minute so I disconnected the output from the carb and placed the hose in a one fluid ounce syringe. It filled in a few seconds. After reconnecting the fuel hose it would not maintain seal with the original clamp so I replaced both clamps between the pump and carb.
I started and let it run at 50% again. It ran for about 30 minutes this time.
After letting it cool down I took it back to the slope. It died a few times but I was able to mow 400 feet or so before retreating up the hill to flat ground. The second or third time it died we were not able to start it without removing the air filter and blocking the intake. After it started I was able to mow a little more and then go back up the hill. I found that it ran better at about 50% to 66% throttle on the hill.
5. Gave it two more five second bursts of blaster lawn mower tune-up. Then removed the rear metal cover and changed the remaining clamps. I also pulled the fuel pickup and found it to be complete and clean. Careful if you do this, the fuel flow from the pump to the filter is gravity feed so it will flow out quickly.
At this point I took it to another slope area and mowed perhaps 500 feet before it died. I was able to restart with the choke on. I finished mowing and nursed it up the hill with the choke on. I had mowed at about 66% throttle.
6. Used a water hose to wash out the radiator. I tried to remove it but decided that was a larger project than I had time for today. The radiator appeared clean before I used the hose. It is mounted horizontally on top of the engine. A large fan under the radiator pulls air through it and out the front. The air flow through the radiator was significant before and after the cleaning. While running with the engine warm the air coming out is warmer than the ambient air.
I started it and it has been running at about 50% throttle for the last 75 minutes. The engine temperature warning has not come on. I am trying to let it burn through the sea foam in the tank.
The hood was broken so I am running without any hood at all. I plan to find one once I have the mechanical issues worked out. The ignition switch was not working well. I cleaned and tightened it and it seems fine now. The starter often spins but does not engage. Cleaning the starter is on my to do list.