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  1. #1
    New Member
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    Aug 2011
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    Tractor
    John Deere GX345

    Unhappy JD GX345 Drive problems

    I have a JD GX345 that while I was cutting stopped moving. I moved tractor to level surface and all it would do is crawl forward and barely move in reverse. Something is spinning,noise sounds like what a stripped gear sounds like. HELP !

  2. #2
    Epic Contributor jinman's Avatar
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    Feb 2001
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    Texas - Wise County - Sunset
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    NHTC45D, NH LB75B, Ford Jubilee

    Default Re: JD GX345 Drive problems

    This is just a SWAG at best, but do you have a drive release lever that may have moved out of the engaged position? I'd also check the fluid level, but grinding gears is not a good sign.
    Jim


  3. #3
    Veteran Member GreenRules's Avatar
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    Casco, Maine
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    New Holland t5040 Kubota L275JD 4110, 110. , 325, GT 225, 214, 112

    Default Re: JD GX345 Drive problems

    Quote Originally Posted by jinman View Post
    This is just a SWAG at best, but do you have a drive release lever that may have moved out of the engaged position? I'd also check the fluid level, but grinding gears is not a good sign.
    theres a rod on the back of the tractor just above the hitch plate. make sure its pushed IN.

    How old is your traction drive belt? is it cracked or glazed over?

  4. #4
    New Member
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    Jul 2004
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    Southern CT
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    Deere 3520

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    Check the drive belt first, the belt might still be in place but you have a broken idler pulley or tension spring. If those are all good I once worked on one where the transmission pulley pulled it's threads and would spin making a grinding noise
    Deere 3520, 300CX loader, HPX gator, L120, oh yea the chainsaw, back pack blower, brush cutter, pole saw, trimmer, and the generator are all Green!

  5. #5
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    Mar 2007
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    Location
    Rutland, Vermont
    Tractor
    I have all of them. JD Dealer.

    Default Re: JD GX345 Drive problems

    On your GX345, check to see if the transmission drive belt snapped or the tension spring has broken. If they are OK, the 2nd most common part to fail is the transmission drive pulley. The drive pulley mates up with the transmission input shaft with splines. The splines on the pulley were designed to be softer than the input shaft, so as they wear with normal use, the pulley will "strip" out before the expensive transmission input shaft.
    Simple test: put one of your front wheels up against something solid, like the side of your garage. Have a friend stand behind the tractor looking in above the transmission at the white cooling fan. At half throttle, step on the forward pedal to load the transmission. If the engine doesn't labor (sounds like it is working) and the transmission fan continues to spin, the trans drive pulley is stripped (usually a crunching grinding noise too). If the engine labors and the fan slows down or stops, then the belt is slipping.
    Best of luck!

  6. #6
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    Apr 2012
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    Braham, minnesota
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    John Deere GX 345

    Default Re: JD GX345 Drive problems

    Any body have a easy way to replace drive belt and transmission pully?

  7. #7
    Super Star Member
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    Upper Midwest USA
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    JD 4300, JD X485 JD 4x2 Gator, JD 425, JD455

    Default Re: JD GX345 Drive problems

    to the forum Francis lee

    What do you mean by "easy" ? Have you been trying some way already, and it is not working?
    Does the tranny pulley need changing?

  8. #8
    Platinum Member
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    Jan 2012
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    2012 John Deere 3520 Deluxe Cab

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    Quote Originally Posted by Francis lee
    Any body have a easy way to replace drive belt and transmission pully?
    Yeah. Remove the whole rear fender assembly. Remove middle platform. Your gonna have to remove the two hydro pedals and deck adjust knob. After that remove fuel tank. Took me about 45 to put new belt on my 325 a year ago. Pretty straight forward

  9. #9
    New Member
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    Feb 2014
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    Location
    Mondovi, WI
    Tractor
    GX345

    Default Re: JD GX345 Drive problems

    Quote Originally Posted by shortthrow50 View Post
    Yeah. Remove the whole rear fender assembly. Remove middle platform. Your gonna have to remove the two hydro pedals and deck adjust knob. After that remove fuel tank. Took me about 45 to put new belt on my 325 a year ago. Pretty straight forward
    shortthow50 is almost right, the only difference is that you do not need to remove the middle platform for this model, just slide the rear fender assembly rearward and lift. I'm actually replacing the pulley on my own gx345 right now.

    - The process I've found that works is remove the (6) fasteners that hold the rear fender on with a 1/2" socket (2 bolts on each side by the seat and 4 bolt and nuts conecting the fender to the middle platform). you'll need a open end box wrench to hold the bolt end.
    - Next disconnect the seat sensor from the bottom of the seat if not already done - perminently.
    - Carefully lift the fender/seat assembly off of the tractor being careful not to damage the seat sensor cord, and place in a safe location.
    - Next remove the (1) hex nut that holds the fuel line onto the frame using a 10mm socket (this should be located by the middle platform on the "driver side".
    - Caefully lift the tank off of the tractor, leaving the fuel line connected and place on the ground.
    - Since the pully is stripped there isn't much to hold the shaft and turn the fan nut off, so I found that if you use an impact wrench with a 3/4" socket and give it a quick hit the nut should come right off.
    - Remove the fan, work the belt off of the pulley (I just ran a screw driver in and turned the pulley to work the belt off) and remove the pulley.

    (About 15-20 minutes tops to take apart)

    - just do the reverse to put it back together.

    The pulley should cost around $40 at your local JD supply shop.

    Good luck and hope this helps everyone.
    Kris

  10. #10
    Bronze Member Grunt0311's Avatar
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    Paw Paw, MI
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    John Deere LX 277

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    Quote Originally Posted by Kschwennsen View Post
    shortthow50 is almost right, the only difference is that you do not need to remove the middle platform for this model, just slide the rear fender assembly rearward and lift. I'm actually replacing the pulley on my own gx345 right now. - The process I've found that works is remove the (6) fasteners that hold the rear fender on with a 1/2" socket (2 bolts on each side by the seat and 4 bolt and nuts conecting the fender to the middle platform). you'll need a open end box wrench to hold the bolt end. - Next disconnect the seat sensor from the bottom of the seat if not already done - perminently. - Carefully lift the fender/seat assembly off of the tractor being careful not to damage the seat sensor cord, and place in a safe location. - Next remove the (1) hex nut that holds the fuel line onto the frame using a 10mm socket (this should be located by the middle platform on the "driver side". - Caefully lift the tank off of the tractor, leaving the fuel line connected and place on the ground. - Since the pully is stripped there isn't much to hold the shaft and turn the fan nut off, so I found that if you use an impact wrench with a 3/4" socket and give it a quick hit the nut should come right off. - Remove the fan, work the belt off of the pulley (I just ran a screw driver in and turned the pulley to work the belt off) and remove the pulley. (About 15-20 minutes tops to take apart) - just do the reverse to put it back together. The pulley should cost around $40 at your local JD supply shop. Good luck and hope this helps everyone. Kris
    Thank you for posting this. It seems all too often posts are left open, and then when some one later tries to search it looking for a solution to a problem they have, all they get is a bunch of questions and no solutions.

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