Stripped Bolt Head

   / Stripped Bolt Head #1  

BobOB1775

Member
Joined
Jan 15, 2012
Messages
38
Location
Gig Harbor, WA
Tractor
John Deere 165
I'd like to replace both mower blades on a 38" deck. One is easy to remove but the other is frozen and the bolt head is stripped. What is the best way to remove this bolt?
 
   / Stripped Bolt Head #2  
Give the head of the bolt a couple of good wachs with about a four pound hammer. Then use pipe wrench or vice grips with extra handle and slowly apply pressure.

You could also weld a new nut on and go with a regular box end.:)
 
   / Stripped Bolt Head #3  
I would follow Egon's suggestions. If it still doesn't break loose heat the head of the bolt up quickly with a propane torch and try it again. Don'y apply too much heat for too a long period of time because it will melt your seals.
 
   / Stripped Bolt Head #4  
pipe wrench with a long piece of tubing on the handle,
 
   / Stripped Bolt Head #5  
My blade bolt hex head was worn almost like a carriage bolt head. I didn't want to weld a nut on the bolt head, I was concerned about heating the spindle seals & bearing. So I cut the head off. With the head off, the blade and washer fell away. A vise-grip on the remainder easily turned the bolt shank out.
 
   / Stripped Bolt Head #6  
Judiciously welding a new nut on shouldn't wreck the seals; but it should help loosen the stuck bolt.
 
   / Stripped Bolt Head #7  
Warm the bolt head with a small torch, don't overheat, just good and warm, spray liberally with Kroil or PB Blaster or other penetrating oil,allow a few minutes for the oil to work, smack top of bolt with hammer, remove. For the rounded head, use a file or die grinder, flatten opposite sides of the bolt head so an open end wrench or vice grips will fit.
 
   / Stripped Bolt Head
  • Thread Starter
#8  
Warm the bolt head with a small torch, don't overheat, just good and warm, spray liberally with Kroil or PB Blaster or other penetrating oil,allow a few minutes for the oil to work, smack top of bolt with hammer, remove. For the rounded head, use a file or die grinder, flatten opposite sides of the bolt head so an open end wrench or vice grips will fit.

Great ideas. I bet this is going to work. If not, I can try a combo of things from the other postings, but this trick just might do it without damaging the seals. Thank you to all of you for your suggestions.
 
   / Stripped Bolt Head
  • Thread Starter
#9  
Update: Finally got the **** thing out! Tried everything last year and couldn't budget the thing so I sharpened the blade with a grinder and called it a day. I started working on it again. I ground the head square again twice chewing it up fro 9/16ths to a 14 mm head. I let the bolt soak for days in Liquid Wrench and torched it. As final last ditch effort, I cut the base of the head to the top thread with a Dremel, soaked it again for a day then popped the head with a small sledge. I put a pipe wrench on it and it came out very easy. Apparently the bolt was so tight against the washer that the penetrating oil never got through. I want to thank everyone for there thoughts on this problem and wanted to let you know that your suggestions were helpful. Now I can rebuild the deck for more years of service.
 
   / Stripped Bolt Head #10  
Judiciously welding a new nut on shouldn't wreck the seals; but it should help loosen the stuck bolt.

Now that is how I have done it several times, not just on mower blade spindle bolts. I weld the nut on by sticking the welding rod down through the center of the nut and welding it to damaged bolt head or broken/frozen stud and let it cool before putting a wrench on it. Kills two birds with one stone. Like you said: a nut to get a good grip and heat to break it loose. By welding down through the center of the nut it keeps all the heat concentrated on the bolt.

Some of the other methods suggested here are very well worth a try also. Welding is not always an option for some people.

BobO, good to see you came up with an idea and method that worked for you.
 
 
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