Auto connect on x7 series

   / Auto connect on x7 series #31  
I did my deck along with a new MC519 cart. My last cart rotted in the lap seams badly so I got this one sealed up right away.

Look at this...
800_Bottom_3-30-13 005.jpg

This is the bottom of a 17 cu/ft Cub Cadet cart that I am planning to restore soon.
All that paint is peeling and I will be able to get lots of it off.
I was planning to get the loose paint off, prime it and paint it.
My question is will the bed liner material stick straight to rust? Primer? Ospho rust treatment?

Do you think this stuff is better than paint considering dirt, rock and a shovel will be used to wear the bottom?
 
   / Auto connect on x7 series
  • Thread Starter
#32  
Cost will be the key factor. Everything not to be coated needs to be bordered with wire tape (to pull the edge) and then completely masked. You'll want a complete sand blast and some sort of a good phosphate wash then prime with a good etching or epoxy primer and paint.

Talk to your bed liner guy to see if he recommends primer only or what.

You may want to refinish and then drop a piece of 1/4" sheet poly (HDPE) in the floor. Anchor at the front edge only and let the sheet float.
 
   / Auto connect on x7 series #33  
I don't get it. Those carts are so inexpensive. Just use it till it dies and the just get a new one. The time and money for paint isn't worth it. I used my old agrifab cart for about 15 years. The bottom was all rust, but not rusted through. I finally sold it for $35 and bought a Country Manufacturing cart and added hydraulic dump. Then I lined the wooden bottom with scrap ABS plastic (like the old bedliners). If you can find the ABS, it's great. Takes all the abuse of shovels, etc. without a ding. Stuff slides right out too. Plan to do the same to my garden cart. Cost of ABS $0.
 
   / Auto connect on x7 series #34  
Then I lined the wooden bottom with scrap ABS plastic (like the old bedliners).

:) I suppose the sheet would protect the paint and the thin stuff should be lightweight.
This is a larger $ 350 cart with a new set of tires that I paid almost $100 for.
So I want to protect it, after paying almost nothing for it used - with dry rotted flat tires.
It had been left out in the rain, which is a no-no, but it actually still in good shape except for the rust inside.

I sure do like the larger cart.
I was using a JD 10 cu/ft cart, but longer sticks fits easily and I can haul a larger load of grass or leaves in this one.
800_Vertical_3-30-13 002.jpg

I suppose I am a cart nut as I have 3.
This is one that is over 30 years old that my deceased father-in-law used.
I restored it and have yet to haul one stick with it. It's in the barn now with dust on it. NOT for sale...
800_Red_Cart_7-21-2012 007.jpg

Before:
600_Before_Paint_4-14-12 001.jpg
 
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   / Auto connect on x7 series #35  
New carts are thin and flimsy which is why people restore old carts. My agrifab side and gate collapsed under weight from logs the old IH CC cart could do.
 
   / Auto connect on x7 series #36  
Most new and older carts are both too light duty for me. They are OK, but not worth a lot of fuss to keep them looking good. . I don't think this can appreciable extend its life. . On my old cart, paint and lack of rust had little to do with its failings. It was more about stress fractures around bolt heads, axle fatigue, tire rot, weld cracking than finish. Just got to the point where my money and time were best directed at a better solution. My neighbor's old cart is about 30 years old, left outside all the time. He's never painted it. It's not pretty, but still goes for him. But, it too is showing signs of metal fatigue.

What is lacking on the market is something more robust, along the lines of the Country Manufacturing Inc. carts, only better designed, with a couple of dump options (like electric and hydraulic remote dump). There just isn't much to choose from at heavier duty than the 10/17 cu. ft models sold today, unless ready to spend $1500 or more. I finally gave in and bought one of those CMI carts and then modified it to be what I want. It still could use a heavier hitch, and benefit from steel sides/bottom. But, it works pretty good. For about $500 I got a 1 ton cart with hydraulic dump that hooks up to any 1/2" set of remote ports. To me, I'd rather put my efforts into this approach where I get a much superior cart.

Of course if I had an old cart around and it met my needs, I'd probably just use it til it died. But, I doubt I'd spend one nickle or any time treating the finish.
 
   / Auto connect on x7 series
  • Thread Starter
#37  
I think maybe we should start a new thread about carts???
 
   / Auto connect on x7 series #38  
Sorry.... back to the x700's ..........
 
   / Auto connect on x7 series #39  
Many problems with auto connect that engineers should have addressed before they released it.I have a new x758 and it's at the dealer now for them to try to figure out a way to resolve the issues.
 
   / Auto connect on x7 series #40  
You're making a HUGE mistake! Your dealer is correct that the MMM lift arms and auto PTO carrier need to be removed in order to mount the front PTO kit. However, add up each time that you crawl under the tractor to disconnect the MMM PTO shaft, then compare it to installing and removing four pins once a year to make room for the snow blower. If you never remove your MMM deck, then great, skip the AutoConnect PTO option. If you were to go with something like the 52 or 60HD broom that would be used between each mowing, only then the performance edge would go to manual connect. I ended up selling my 52 broom because I love AutoConnect so much.

Actually on my X734, you do not have to remove the auto-connect to use the front PTO kit. Last year, on my first try, I remove the auto-connect for the winter to use my snowblower/front PTO, which wasn't bad (4 pins). But actually, you can leave it on.......you disconnect the auto-connect from the rear PTO, and there is a hanger that you hang the auto-connect shaft on....raise the draft arms, and their is a locking mechanism to hold up the whole setup......you close or open the relief valve near the hydraulics hookups, which shuts off the hydraulics for the deck and opens them up for the snowblower. Haven't decide whether I want to leave it on this winter, or take it off like I did last year.....wasn't that big of a deal.

Fadz
 
 
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