GX345 Burned Part on Ignition Module

[fromjusttheking]

Hello, I'm a new member.

I have a JD GX345 with a snowthrower attached. Haven't used it for a year, and the battery was just about dead. I tried to start it with my big battery charger/engine starter (275Amps). Followed the charger's instructions, and first charged the battery for 5 minutes at the 60Amp level. Tried starting it with the battery by itself. No joy. Then switched the charger to the engine start mode. Tried to start it again for about 5 seconds. Again, no go. Tried it again a couple of more times for 5 seconds each, and wallah, it coughed, sputtered and then started. The charger cables were still attached to the battery. What I didn't know was that there was a small amount of smoke coming from the ignition module on the right side near the key just below the battery (looking forward sitting in the seat) under the hood. When I saw it I immediately shut off the engine. What I also saw was one component, looks like a resistor that was glowing bright orange, trying to burn up.

I waited for about 10 minutes, and looked closely at the part. It has a dark body (probably brown)with a nice round circular burn spot in the center that is now grayish white in the center. At this point, I swapped out the battery with a newer one, and tried to start the engine, but this time watching the burned part. The engine started right away, and the part did NOT start burning again. So far, the part seems to be intact, and electrically working properly. I suspect that the engine start mode of the charger hit it with either too much voltage or current. The charger is the big Sears charger 2/20/60Amp at 12V, and engine start 275Amps at 12V.

I used the tractor today plow snow from this morning's major storm, and so far, no problem. I believe that what happened to the part physically, is that the burning melted or disintegrated the resistor body partially, but didn't degrade the resistance element "enough" (so far I hope) to cause a malfunction, and cause the ignition system to fail. Whether it will fail in the future, I can't say.

Therefore, what I would like to do is to replace that part (most likely a resistor, I can see what looks like some color code bands on it) on the board with a new one. I took pictures, but being new do not know if I can or how to upload photos. Descriptively, the circuit board is not enclosed. Cannot see the part number. It has a couple of black NEC relays, 1 large 300uF 16V electrolytic capacitor and a smaller one as well. There are 2 fuses 15 Amps each. a lot of resistors, and diodes as well, a couple of large multi-pin connectors. There are also 2 LED's, one green near the top, and one red near the middle of the board. The burned part looks like maybe a 1/2 or 1 watt resistor. Looking at the board, the burned part is at the very top, directly above the SMALLER electrolytic capacitor, and immediately to the left of the top most mounted black NEC relay ID's as K3. A mounting screw is at about 4 o'clock to the burned part.

The module itself part number may be AM130341 or AM132500. I bought this tractor in 2006 or 7. Does anyone have an electrical schematic of the module by chance. I can't find one online.

Any information or suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks in advance. Alan

 

[Missouri Lad]

Hello, I'm a new member.

I have a JD GX345 with a snowthrower attached. Haven't used it for a year, and the battery was just about dead. I tried to start it with my big battery charger/engine starter (275Amps). Followed the charger's instructions, and first charged the battery for 5 minutes at the 60Amp level. Tried starting it with the battery by itself. No joy. Then switched the charger to the engine start mode. Tried to start it again for about 5 seconds. Again, no go. Tried it again a couple of more times for 5 seconds each, and wallah, it coughed, sputtered and then started. The charger cables were still attached to the battery. What I didn't know was that there was a small amount of smoke coming from the ignition module on the right side near the key just below the battery (looking forward sitting in the seat) under the hood. When I saw it I immediately shut off the engine. What I also saw was one component, looks like a resistor that was glowing bright orange, trying to burn up.

I waited for about 10 minutes, and looked closely at the part. It has a dark body (probably brown)with a nice round circular burn spot in the center that is now grayish white in the center. At this point, I swapped out the battery with a newer one, and tried to start the engine, but this time watching the burned part. The engine started right away, and the part did NOT start burning again. So far, the part seems to be intact, and electrically working properly. I suspect that the engine start mode of the charger hit it with either too much voltage or current. The charger is the big Sears charger 2/20/60Amp at 12V, and engine start 275Amps at 12V.

I used the tractor today plow snow from this morning's major storm, and so far, no problem. I believe that what happened to the part physically, is that the burning melted or disintegrated the resistor body partially, but didn't degrade the resistance element "enough" (so far I hope) to cause a malfunction, and cause the ignition system to fail. Whether it will fail in the future, I can't say.

Therefore, what I would like to do is to replace that part (most likely a resistor, I can see what looks like some color code bands on it) on the board with a new one. I took pictures, but being new do not know if I can or how to upload photos. Descriptively, the circuit board is not enclosed. Cannot see the part number. It has a couple of black NEC relays, 1 large 300uF 16V electrolytic capacitor and a smaller one as well. There are 2 fuses 15 Amps each. a lot of resistors, and diodes as well, a couple of large multi-pin connectors. There are also 2 LED's, one green near the top, and one red near the middle of the board. The burned part looks like maybe a 1/2 or 1 watt resistor. Looking at the board, the burned part is at the very top, directly above the SMALLER electrolytic capacitor, and immediately to the left of the top most mounted black NEC relay ID's as K3. A mounting screw is at about 4 o'clock to the burned part.

The module itself part number may be AM130341 or AM132500. I bought this tractor in 2006 or 7. Does anyone have an electrical schematic of the module by chance. I can't find one online.

Any information or suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks in advance. Alan

I know your pain here, as I had to replace one also some years ago. There's really not much to in doing the replacement. Remove the old and install new the same way.

Here is what you are referring too...correct

New John Deere Ignition Key Switch Module 345 LX255 GT225 GX325 X475 X585 | eBay

 

[fromjusttheking]

I know your pain here, as I had to replace one also some years ago. There's really not much to in doing the replacement. Remove the old and install new the same way.

Here is what you are referring too...correct

New John Deere Ignition Key Switch Module 345 LX255 GT225 GX325 X475 X585 | eBay

Hi Missouri Lad, thanks for sharing the pain. So far my ignition module is working fine, and for all I know it may continue that way. But, just to be sure, I would still like to replace the burned resistor. Looking at the listing's photos, I can only see 2 of the color bands on the resistor. Orange, orange, (3,3 are the first 2 digits of its value) but can't see the rest of them. If you still have that module in you tractor, can you see what the colors are starting at the left end of the resistor, going to the right? That's all I really need to know. I did confirm the ignition module's part number as being AM130341. The updated version will hopefully not have changed the resistors value. Once I know what the value is I can replace the resistor pretty easily from what I can tell.

Thanks for trying to help. Replacing a single resistor is far easier and cheaper than replacing the whole module especially since it is still working.

If anyone else can give me that resistor's color code or value in case Missouri Lad doesn't have that information, it would be appreciated.

Thanks, Alan

 

[Missouri Lad]

Hi Missouri Lad, thanks for sharing the pain. So far my ignition module is working fine, and for all I know it may continue that way. But, just to be sure, I would still like to replace the burned resistor. Looking at the listing's photos, I can only see 2 of the color bands on the resistor. Orange, orange, (3,3 are the first 2 digits of its value) but can't see the rest of them. If you still have that module in you tractor, can you see what the colors are starting at the left end of the resistor, going to the right? That's all I really need to know. I did confirm the ignition module's part number as being AM130341. The updated version will hopefully not have changed the resistors value. Once I know what the value is I can replace the resistor pretty easily from what I can tell.

Thanks for trying to help. Replacing a single resistor is far easier and cheaper than replacing the whole module especially since it is still working.

If anyone else can give me that resistor's color code or value in case Missouri Lad doesn't have that information, it would be appreciated.

Thanks, Alan

Alan, I retired from a company that made circuit boards for computers, and I thought I knew just about all that could be learned to fix/repair such boards until I tried to repair the JD Ignition Module on my 1999 345 tractor. I have the tools to do such repairs, but, that didn't work as I ended up buying a new Ignition Module. By the time you spend for new resistors, diodes, and the necessary parts, and hopeful you can do it correctly. If not it pays to replace the old one. I think I saved the one that burned out, and I'll go out in the "ex John Deere parts bin" and see if I can get the number off the part you requested. If you should end up having to replace the whole module, you will find it is updated differently than the OEM one and works much better with the PTO unit.

I will get back with the numbers if I still have the old module.

 

[Dutch445]

i wonder if there was a short in the battery?

 

[Missouri Lad]

Hi Alan, I didn't find the old Ignition Module assembly in my old parts bin....must have discarded it when I couldn't repair it. However, I did remove the side panel on my 345 and here's what I have found on the small round 12.5mm dia. capacitor. It's a Nichicon brand with these numbers...3300uf 16 v. 3300. Here is photo I found on what it looks like.

 

[fromjusttheking]

Alan, I retired from a company that made circuit boards for computers, and I thought I knew just about all that could be learned to fix/repair such boards until I tried to repair the JD Ignition Module on my 1999 345 tractor. I have the tools to do such repairs, but, that didn't work as I ended up buying a new Ignition Module. By the time you spend for new resistors, diodes, and the necessary parts, and hopeful you can do it correctly. If not it pays to replace the old one. I think I saved the one that burned out, and I'll go out in the "ex John Deere parts bin" and see if I can get the number off the part you requested. If you should end up having to replace the whole module, you will find it is updated differently than the OEM one and works much better with the PTO unit.

I will get back with the numbers if I still have the old module.

Hi Lad, Thanks again for the info. I'm a retired aerospace electronic engineer. I've worked on many a circuit board, so I have no fear in working on this module, even while installed. Of course, I'll disconnect the battery first, so no power will be able to get to the module, especially since it's right at the start of the power chain. The burned resistor, and I'm sure that it is a resistor, just needs to be first identified not so much by a part number, but by its color code bands marked on the body. The first 2 bands appear to be orange, orange which translate in the electronic world of resistor color coding as 33 "something". Like maybe 33 ohms, 330 ohms, 3300 ohms, etc. Without knowing what the 3rd color band from the left end of the body is (which is after the 2nd orange band from the left) I cannot replace it because I still am missing the "multiplier" color band which tells me 33 "what" so to speak.

 

[fromjusttheking]

i wonder if there was a short in the battery?

I don't think so because the engine did eventually start with the old battery, which I knew was pretty flat and was going to be replaced anyway. Just thought I'd try to get it started with the old battery and move the tractor to my garage (it was in an uninsulated Amish garage) which was insulated and much warmer. There I would have replaced the battery with a new one that I had bought. But couldn't move it with the snowthrower mounted where it was. So I tried getting it going with the old battery where it was, when the resistor burned using the engine start function of my big battery charger.

If the battery had an internal short, it would not have likely started the engine at all. I think that, and I'm guessing here, the 13.8 volts (to 14.2 volts maybe) at 275 amps might have been just too much power for the ignition module, and the resistor burned for some reason. Just a guess of course. But in any event, for the moment, the module is still working just fine even with the burned resistor.

The other reason I had to get it going was that the storm, as they called it, "Titan", this past weekend on the east coast was almost here, and I needed the snowthrower to clear my driveway and surrounding paths. So it had to get done. Had I been able to replace the old battery with the new one first, this whole problem wouldn't have existed, but it was just toooooo damnably cold, down in the single digits, and I'm too old of a fart to want to weather that kind of temperature. So I wanted to get it inside. Just that simple. As it turned out, I had to swap it out outside because the old battery didn't have enough charge to keep the engine running reliably, so I bit the bullet and installed the new battery in the Amish garage. The engine started instantly with the new one and the burned resistor never glowed (burned again). I put in a new Interstate MT-51 battery. I then moved it into the other garage without incident. Sometimes ya just gotta do whatcha just gotta do. I'm sure that you know what I mean.

 

[fromjusttheking]

Hi Alan, I didn't find the old Ignition Module assembly in my old parts bin....must have discarded it when I couldn't repair it. However, I did remove the side panel on my 345 and here's what I have found on the small round 12.5mm dia. capacitor. It's a Nichicon brand with these numbers...3300uf 16 v. 3300. Here is photo I found on what it looks like.

Thanks for the photo. It is the same as the one I have, located about 8'oclock to the burned resistor. I thought mine was a 330uF, but it IS a 3300uF 16v just like your photo. It's the large one in the photo. That part is ok. Hopefully someone will have some info or a photo of the burned resistor of which I speak.

I've attached a couple of photos of my module and the burned resistor. Haven't quite gotten the handle on rotating photos using the site's uploading system. Pictures speak louder than words.

 

[Missouri Lad]

I must have misread your original post on what blow-up on the circuit board. The capacitor on mine was my problem as one I posted photo of. So, I went back out to the tractor garage and with my 82 year old eyes...which I think is pretty good, couldn't find any number(s) on the resister you pointed out in your photo. It does have the Orange bands, but, it's so small I don't think there's any number markings on it. You probably should wait until the tractor will not start and remove the Ignition Module and take it to a firm that sells resistors...like Radio Shack who may tell you want you need.