John Deere 318 wont start

[flatheadfan]

I have an older JD 318 318X113982 with a leaf collection system. it's old but I keep the filters and fluids up to snuff. I use it only 5 or 6 Saturdays a year to pick up leaves-then it goes into mothballs. It ran fine last Saturday for 3 hours and I put it back in the building. Today-all I get are dash lights and nothing else when I turn the key. No click in starter area. So far I have:
Checked battery and load tested it-battery is less than a year old and passed load test fine.
Replaced (2) 20 amp blade fuses on rail in front of hood latch catch. The originals looked OK
Cleaned terminals on ignition switch and reinstalled
Tested the neutral safety switch on the hydro lever and it is operating fine.
Disconnected the seat switch and bypassed it-still no starter engagement
I can flip up the PTO switch and hear it click.
The tractor looks like it had one of those hard start kits/box that mount on frame in front of starter area years ago-but I can't see where I have any current coming to that lead with a test light when I turn the starter to engage the starter.
I cant determine if I have a safety switch on the brake pedal-I think I remember having to push the pedal in to start-which i do with my other 318-but can't see a switch unless it's under the fender deck. Some forums say not all 318's have a safety switch on brake pedal. Lights work on dash switch when I turn it on
Anyone seen a ignition switch go bad especially in the mode where you turn it all the way on to engage the starter. Has anyone heard of one of those starter helper kits going bad. I'm trying to keep it simple. It ran like a champ for 4 Saturdays in a row-as it has for the last 5 years- and now is dead in the water
Any suggestions appreciated-especially where a safety switch would be for the brake pedal. Thanks for reading my post-I'll relay any info back that helps.

 

[Kish318420]

I would check the key switch first, they are a known to corrode and burn out. Second look to see if the reliable start relay still is hookup, if it is then the relay socket or the relay itself could be bad. Finally the starter could of died. That is the short list from easiest to hardest, cheapest to the costlier in that order.

 

[Richard001]

Yes, the on/off/start switches fail.

If you can, jumper the battery positive terminal to the starter main terminal.

Be careful, large current available !

This bypasses all the switches, relays and fuses. If the starter runs, then the problem is someplace between the starter and battery.

Richard

 

[Amvcane]

I use my 318 year round, pulling a dump trailer, mowing, tilling, and snow plowing. Probably twice a year I go to start it and have the same symptoms you have. Turning the key on and off several times will usually always start it. Removing the battery terminals and cleaning with wire brush and knife will fix the problem. I think I need a better anti-ox. Also make sure you have a good ground from battery to engine. My 318 is an early model with a bendix type starter.

 

[flatheadfan]

I have an older JD 318 318X113982 with a leaf collection system. it's old but I keep the filters and fluids up to snuff. I use it only 5 or 6 Saturdays a year to pick up leaves-then it goes into mothballs. It ran fine last Saturday for 3 hours and I put it back in the building. Today-all I get are dash lights and nothing else when I turn the key. No click in starter area. So far I have:
Checked battery and load tested it-battery is less than a year old and passed load test fine.
Replaced (2) 20 amp blade fuses on rail in front of hood latch catch. The originals looked OK
Cleaned terminals on ignition switch and reinstalled
Tested the neutral safety switch on the hydro lever and it is operating fine.
Disconnected the seat switch and bypassed it-still no starter engagement
I can flip up the PTO switch and hear it click.
The tractor looks like it had one of those hard start kits/box that mount on frame in front of starter area years ago-but I can't see where I have any current coming to that lead with a test light when I turn the starter to engage the starter.
I cant determine if I have a safety switch on the brake pedal-I think I remember having to push the pedal in to start-which i do with my other 318-but can't see a switch unless it's under the fender deck. Some forums say not all 318's have a safety switch on brake pedal. Lights work on dash switch when I turn it on
Anyone seen a ignition switch go bad especially in the mode where you turn it all the way on to engage the starter. Has anyone heard of one of those starter helper kits going bad. I'm trying to keep it simple. It ran like a champ for 4 Saturdays in a row-as it has for the last 5 years- and now is dead in the water
Any suggestions appreciated-especially where a safety switch would be for the brake pedal. Thanks for reading my post-I'll relay any info back that helps.

3 days latter-OK-got new JD ignition switch-same problem-however if I jump the A lug and S2 lug on the starter switch assembly with connectors plugged in and crank over the switch the tractor fires up and can be turned off with the switch. It also does this with old switch so I think the switch was not the problem. I must have good wiring harness to starter area. Again-checked the Neutral lever switch and it tests for on/off movement of lever. The seat switch is bypassed for now. Can anyone tell me if current runs to the ignition switch thru the PTO switch and if a bad PTO switch can cause the no start situation. thanks again

 

[Richard001]

Flathead,

Do you have the single PTO tractor ?

If so, then print out the first schematic that Kish provided. Then with a highlighter pen, follow the wire labeled "710 pur" from the on/off/start switch terminal S2. You will see that it goes to the brake sw terminal X8.

So now you can see that the brake switch must be closed to complete the circuit.

Now from the brake switch, follow the wire labeled "715 pur/wht". As you can see, the transmission switch must be closed to complete the circuit. So the transmission must be in neutral.

Now look at the X10 terminal on the transmission sw. It has a wire labeled "720 pur". This wire then goes to a jumper on X5. Make sure that the jumper is in place and making good electrical contact.

Then you will a wire labeled "730 pur" going from the jumper to the front PTO switch bottom terminal X3. So the PTO switch must be off for the circuit to complete.

Now look at the top X3 terminal, it has two wires on it, one is labeled "415 pur". Follow that wire to the Time Delay Module. You will notice that it is also connected to a wire labeled "410 pink". This wire goes to the 20 amp fuse F1. Make sure that the fuse is good and is making good electrical contact in the fuse holder.

From the F1 fuse, there is a wire labeled "405 pink". As you can see this wire goes to the X2 A terminal on the start switch.

This circuit provides the voltage and current to operate the starter motor solenoid.

So when you jumpered the two terminals together, you basically bypass all of the safety switches.

You can use your voltmeter to see if the voltage is getting to the various connectors. Put the on/off/start sw in the run position and start probing the connectors. The engine does not need to be running.

Start with the X2 A terminal and then follow the wire to the various connectors. Some place a long the way, you will find the problem.

Sorry this is so long, but you ask !

Richard

 

[flatheadfan]

Flathead,

Do you have the single PTO tractor ?

If so, then print out the first schematic that Kish provided. Then with a highlighter pen, follow the wire labeled "710 pur" from the on/off/start switch terminal S2. You will see that it goes to the brake sw terminal X8.

So now you can see that the brake switch must be closed to complete the circuit.

Now from the brake switch, follow the wire labeled "715 pur/wht". As you can see, the transmission switch must be closed to complete the circuit. So the transmission must be in neutral.

Now look at the X10 terminal on the transmission sw. It has a wire labeled "720 pur". This wire then goes to a jumper on X5. Make sure that the jumper is in place and making good electrical contact.

Then you will a wire labeled "730 pur" going from the jumper to the front PTO switch bottom terminal X3. So the PTO switch must be off for the circuit to complete.

Now look at the top X3 terminal, it has two wires on it, one is labeled "415 pur". Follow that wire to the Time Delay Module. You will notice that it is also connected to a wire labeled "410 pink". This wire goes to the 20 amp fuse F1. Make sure that the fuse is good and is making good electrical contact in the fuse holder.

From the F1 fuse, there is a wire labeled "405 pink". As you can see this wire goes to the X2 A terminal on the start switch.

This circuit provides the voltage and current to operate the starter motor solenoid.

So when you jumpered the two terminals together, you basically bypass all of the safety switches.

You can use your voltmeter to see if the voltage is getting to the various connectors. Put the on/off/start sw in the run position and start probing the connectors. The engine does not need to be running.

Start with the X2 A terminal and then follow the wire to the various connectors. Some place a long the way, you will find the problem.

Sorry this is so long, but you ask !

Richard

Richard-Thanks so much for your reply. I do have a single PTO and a early tractor with no parking brake interlock. I did determine I had a 20 amp fuse in the red circuit wire which feeds that Time Delay Box-but it appears to have been there for many years. I believe its supposed to be 3 or 5 amps. last night I did check the Hydro lever again under power and it makes and breaks circuit with tester. I have the wiring lead to seat interlock bypassed with a jumper lead. I'll take your advice and try to follow all the wires you suggest and the connections. I may even pull off the fender deck and see if I have a chaffed wire under there. Can you tell me if any current runs thru the PTO switch on its way to key switch. Will that time delay box mess everything up if it goes south? I'll print off that diagram and disregard the parking brake which I don't have.

 

[Richard001]

Can you tell me if any current runs thru the PTO switch on its way to key switch.

Yes it does.

 

[flatheadfan]

Richard-Thanks so much for your reply. I do have a single PTO and a early tractor with no parking brake interlock. I did determine I had a 20 amp fuse in the red circuit wire which feeds that Time Delay Box-but it appears to have been there for many years. I believe its supposed to be 3 or 5 amps. last night I did check the Hydro lever again under power and it makes and breaks circuit with tester. I have the wiring lead to seat interlock bypassed with a jumper lead. I'll take your advice and try to follow all the wires you suggest and the connections. I may even pull off the fender deck and see if I have a chaffed wire under there. Can you tell me if any current runs thru the PTO switch on its way to key switch. Will that time delay box mess everything up if it goes south? I'll print off that diagram and disregard the parking brake which I don't have.

Update again-OK-new ignition switch, PTO switch, neutral switch installed. All connectors cleaned and hooked up. I pulled off fender deck to see if Safety switch wire loom was chewed up or shorted out-it is OK. I have the safety switch bypassed during all this testing. Same problem-dash lights up and no starter cranking over. I can still jump the switch lugs on new key switch and unit roars to life. Previous owner installed starter improvement kit. I think I pretty well have to figure the time delay box is bad. Am I correct in assuming the circuitry runs thru it before allowing unit to crank over? I'm going to pull the time delay box out tomorrow and clean all it's connectors. Can anyone confirm that they have found these a raeson for no start condition? Thanks again

 

[Richard001]

The time-delay module is not in the starter circuit.

Previous owner installed starter improvement kit.

Can anyone explain what the "starter improvement kit" is or does ?

Richard