Putting a block heater in a 2305

[DeKay]

Winter is coming and I need to put a block heater in my 2305. Any recommendations on the best way to take out the engine block drain plug? This is a smooth concave metal disk that seems to be somehow press-fit into the block. There is nothing to attach a wrench or anything to, and there is no description in the manual. A friend who put a block heater in his car suggested using a punch and tapping to one side of it, causing it to swing out on the opposite side.

Picture from John Deere Parts Catalog

Also, the manual seems to indicate that even if I drain the coolant out of the petcock near the rad, that I'll still get some coolant leaking out when I pop this plug out. Sound right?

Finally, anybody know the standard coolant these tractors ship with? I bought mine out of the states, and I'm guessing the coolant isn't going to hold up in the -40 degree winters we get. Time to buy a tester, methinks.

Thanks in advance!

 

[DeKay]

Hmmm. Looks like I stumped the internet (that's unpossible!) So, not letting the lack of knowledge slow me down, I went ahead and gave this a shot. Hope it helps somebody else down the road.

A friend who put a block heater in his car suggested using a punch and tapping to one side of it, causing it to swing out on the opposite side.

This worked out pretty well. I detached the loader first to give myself some room. I started with a punch and a small hammer. The disk didn't budge so I took out a bigger hammer and tapped carefully to one side of the disk. Sure enough, the side I was hitting started to swing inside the block, and the other side started swinging out. I VERY carefully tapped away until the edge of the disk was out far enough that I could grab it with a plier and yank it out.

I did another thing my friend recommended and that was using some gasket goop on the gasket supplied with the block heater to reduce the chance of a leak.

Also, the manual seems to indicate that even if I drain the coolant out of the petcock near the rad, that I'll still get some coolant leaking out when I pop this plug out. Sound right?

This is indeed what happens. Coolant spills out from the hole and dribbles down the block and onto the frame. Having a big pan underneath the tractor when you do this is a really good idea.

I'm guessing the coolant isn't going to hold up in the -40 degree winters we get. Time to buy a tester, methinks.

Still on my list of things to do...

 

[adb_11]

SORRY I WASN'T ON THE INTERNET ALL WEEKEND. I'M GLAD YOU HAD SUCCESS AND THAT IS EXACTLY HOW I DID MINE. YOU WILL LOVE THE BLOCK HEATER!

 

[VABlue]

That drain plug was actually a freeze plug. If coolant would have started freezing in there the freeze plugs are supposed to pop out and save the block from cracking. They aren't meant to come out otherwise! But, I guess, if you're worried about freezing your block off, it's a good place to connect up a heater.

Sorry about the pun...

 

[DeKay]

That drain plug was actually a freeze plug. If coolant would have started freezing in there the freeze plugs are supposed to pop out and save the block from cracking. They aren't meant to come out otherwise! But, I guess, if you're worried about freezing your block off, it's a good place to connect up a heater.

Sorry about the pun...

You should be! By the way, that plug isn't a good place to connect the heater, its the only place The plug actually does double duty as a freeze and drain plug - the manual talks about popping it out when you need to drain all the coolant.

Anyhoo, I bought an antifreeze tester to see how cold the coolant is good to. The tester was right off the scale (it only goes down to -45, hehe), so the antifreeze should be good for even the coldest of winters. One less thing to worry about

 

[dbdartman]

Sorry if this sounds contrary or condescending, it's not meant to be.

Those plugs in the block & head are NOT "freeze plugs... meant to pop out and save the block from cracking." They are casting holes, there to hold the internal sand casting in place relative to the outside of the block/head, which creates the internal passages inside the block & heads. While they may (or may not) pop out if the coolant freezes inside the block/head, that is not what they are there for. Even if they DO pop out if the coolant freezes, this will by no means mean the block/head is NOT cracked.

Sorry to be a "nit-picker" but although these plugs are commonly called "freeze plugs" & most everyone knows them as such, that is NOT why they are there. They are "casting plugs."

 

[ragkar]

When I lived in chicago I had four levels of protection for my high compression car in cold weather.
Level one - battery heater plate that I got from whitney
Level two - battery heater plus dipstick heater. Get the copper tube type as the aluminum tube might break due to flexing.
Level three - battery, block and dipstick heater
Level four - battery, block and dipstick heater plus change the oil to 5 weight for the duration of the cold spell.

The battery heater approach is the easiest to implement.

 

[Deadman]

Theres no need for a block heater in a 2305.

I live in Northern Wisconsin and my 2210 always started in below Zero temps. You need to cycle the glo plugs a few times though. To do that, put it in GEAR, and turn the key to start and hold it for 5 seconds, then do it again, and again, and once more if its super cold. Now put in Neutral, and start it! Started everytime for me!

 

[TOMMY_K_S]

Block heater excellent idea,most wear put on engine is on a cold start !!! The warmer the engine the better for it..

 

[ragkar]

Deadman - That's useful advice. That's the sort of advice that I read the threads to find.

Oh yeah, I forgot the most common cold weather protection in my reply above - a battery trickle charger