Plumbing Top Link Cylinder

   / Plumbing Top Link Cylinder #1  

MikeyB

Silver Member
Joined
Oct 11, 2006
Messages
134
Location
Parker,CO
Tractor
JD 3320
I have a 3320 and have been hemming and hawing about a top link cylinder and the associated hydraulics. My dealer can order and install it but that requires a trip charge since I don't have a trailer:mad: to drag it to the dealer. Has anyone installed this themselves? It looks like a plumbing job to connect to the third scv valve on the loader joystick and the hardlines and quick connects to the rear of the tractor plus a cutout in the right side plastic panel for the newly installed lever next to the rockshaft lever. Also, will any hyd cylinder do or am I better off ordering one from carter that has the check valves installed since I think the dealer will probably just want to sell me a regular cylinder? Thanks for any input!

Regards,
Mike
 
   / Plumbing Top Link Cylinder #2  
Personally I'd tend to go with the dealer if the hydraulic toplink was competitively priced (maybe 200-300 including hoses with QDs and shipping, perhaps a bit less for a smaller cat1, from CCM).

My experience is that the dealer needs to be paid his profit too-- another middle man is what it amounts to-- so the price is unlikely to be competitive. Some people will tout the DPOCV (check valve) and I think it is a good idea, but don't have the experience yet to say. My CCM toplink doesn't arrive for a few more days :D and I'm already saving up for a sidelink :D :D It only takes a few days with a 1500lb box blade to realize what a PITA it is twirling the links around under load, even when the load is your friend.
 
   / Plumbing Top Link Cylinder
  • Thread Starter
#3  
I am in the same boat. Figured this was the cheapest way to get started. Someday I will add the sidelink as well and have a fully functional top n tilt but dealer said I could add as I go. I have a very heavy rear blade and yes it is a major pita especially with my crummy manual adjustable side-link.

Mike
 
   / Plumbing Top Link Cylinder #4  
The dealer has a Deere specific kit and is custom for your tractor. If you decide you want to utilize the OEM deere part, I don't recommend adding as you go. When you order the entire top n tilt kit, you pay a lot less than ordering individual components. I went through this some time back and with the assistance of a patient JD parts guy, decided that if the side cylinder is somewhere in your future, it would make a lot more sense to order the kit now and keep the rest of the parts for use later. In fact, just the top cyl alone was something like $500 (I might remember incorrectly) and the entire Top n tilt kit for your tractor is about $800 plus change. This includes the top and side cylinder, the cylinder ends, the angled clevis to attach to lower lift arm, all the fittings, the hoses, the replacement top link support bracket. BTW, you can not price the kit online as the part# will show up as invalid part #. I believe all of the John Deere kits need to be ordered at the dealer because they are probably designed and intended as options and upgrades through sales dept and not parts dept. You'll probably need to find a parts guy who knows where to look. Don't be discouraged if he says he can't find that part in his system ... it's there. You'll just need to find someone else who knows where to find it.

I recently performed some upgrades to my tractor: Installed Deere canopy, installed wheel weights, installed cruise control option, installed power beyond kit, installed DIVERTER valve kit AND finally installed the top and tilt kit. Took me a little less than a week to do everything on/off but someone working on it all day could probably have finished it in 2. I debated the cost to bring tractor in to dealer to install but decided that I would do it myself. I don't regret it one bit and I'll post the entire install in a few days, if I don't get too busy in other matters. You may want to watch for it if you are curious insofar as what is involved in the installation, especially with respect to the Diverter Kit, which is the most involved installation of them all.

I already had the 3rd SCV option so I can't provide any experience info on that installation, but I can tell you that you will need to remove the right rear wheel, the right control console pod, the right rear fender. At least the hydraulic ports are the easiest of the bunch to access on the dual SCV as they are the two outermost pair (out of the 6) of ports on the valve. You'll also need to make a cutout for the lever and the best tool will be a dremel with small cutoff wheel.

The attached image is contents of the Deere top n tilt kit (ignore impact wrench) I might have missed something else, I don't recall. I'm sure I could have been able to peice the kit together using non-deere parts and saved a few bucks but some of the parts are not available aftermarket and frankly, I prefer a complete kit, with instructions, designed and intended for my tractor and I'm rather lazy and knowing myself, I probably would have bought the wrong parts, and ended up with a bunch of non-used wrong parts left over and... oh what the heck, it's way easier and I'm darn lazy.
 

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   / Plumbing Top Link Cylinder
  • Thread Starter
#5  
Superduper,

Thanks for the info. My dealer has in stock the top link cylinder portion of a top and tilt kit with its associated hardware. The sidelink cylinder and hardware went to another customer. He is giving me a good deal on the top link portion so I ordered the 3rd scv kit which I will install myself. Later, I will get the diverter valve kit since it seems to be the priciest part of the puzzle. He said the dealership would get the tilt portion for me later down the road by parting out a tnt kit. Thanks again for the info, and if you do have time to post your upgrades that would be great.

Mike
 
   / Plumbing Top Link Cylinder #6  
Great! It sounds like the perfect opportunity has fallen on your lap. It doesn't appear that these kits are sitting on too many dealer shelves and for you to just happen to find a dealer with a kit on the shelf that has been parted out with just the parts you need remaining.... well, can't pass that up!

I know that the kits are priced much lower than pricing all the parts individually. I'll bet anything that someone ordered the side link and associated parts without considering the cost of the entire kit. The dealer then probably ordered, then parted out the kit to that customer. In the end, the remaining parts (the top link with associated hardware) probably cost them next to nothing.
 
 
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