4310 Rear PTO problems

[CLinton_in_FL]

Well the pressure was spot on, which proves that everything electrical was working as it should. I had 180psi on the gauge when the PTO was on, which is the correct pressure. I drained all the hydraulic fluid, and removed the bolts from the rear cover. It seems to be stuck on there pretty good. I will get it off and snap some pictures this weekend.

 

[CLinton_in_FL]

I was able to get everything apart yesterday, and unfortunately, nothing seems to be broken. I wish I could see something that actually needs replacing, but I didnt. Everything was nice and tight. I have not disassembled the clutch / brake assembly yet, but all the clutch disc痴 look OK from what I can see. All O-Rings look good as well. So that brings me to my next set of questions.

1. Should I just rebuild the clutch assembly and hope that fixes it? (Assuming I see nothing wrong with it when I take it apart?

Also, I have been reading my book, and it seems that the PTO shaft (the one in the tunnel) is directly connected the engine via the input shaft that goes directly through the transmission. Am I correct on my thinking? I would like to make sure it spins when the engine is turned over. I am thinking about bumping the engine over to check this, without actually starting it up

Any suggestions or tips are greatly appreciated.

Thanks

 

[dfkrug]

Also, I have been reading my book, and it seems that the PTO shaft (the one in the tunnel) is directly connected the engine via the input shaft that goes directly through the transmission. Am I correct on my thinking?

Yes, the PTO shaft is direct-connected to the engine thru the HST. You
can crank the engine to verify. You can not usually turn a HST manually,
even if your tractor had a clutch to disconnect the engine. You might
want a helper here, so he can bump the engine while you observe the
PTO. If you can not turn the PTO manually now, either your PTO clutch
is engaged or the PTO brake is engaged. We need pix!

I just got my 4300 PTO clutch installed, and it was struggle to get it working
correctly.

 

[CLinton_in_FL]

Yes, the PTO shaft is direct-connected to the engine thru the HST. You
can crank the engine to verify. You can not usually turn a HST manually,
even if your tractor had a clutch to disconnect the engine. You might
want a helper here, so he can bump the engine while you observe the
PTO. If you can not turn the PTO manually now, either your PTO clutch
is engaged or the PTO brake is engaged. We need pix!

I just got my 4300 PTO clutch installed, and it was struggle to get it working
correctly.

Yes, I will get a helper so I can observe. I cannot turn the shaft with my hand, so turning the engine is the only way to test this while the clutch is fully removed. I will have pics up tomorrow. Also, before I took anything apart, I could turn the PTO out put shaft its 63 degrees when the pto was and was not engageged. So that tells me the brake never fully released. I will know more tomorrow. Thanks for the advice..

 

[dfkrug]

Also, before I took anything apart, I could turn the PTO out put shaft its 63 degrees when the pto was and was not engageged.

The PTO brake on the 4300 is designed with an ear on the plate basket
so that you can get some rotation even with the brake engaged. You
can spin the PTO shaft some fraction of a full rotation fwd and rev to assist
getting your driveshaft lined up with the splines.

Also on mine, I can partially shift the PTO half way between ON and OFF and
get a neutral position where neither clutch nor brake is engaged. Yours
must be totally different. It seems to me that your shifter must have the
clutch disengaged and the brake engaged. Otherwise, you would not
be able to turn the shaft at all.

 

[CLinton_in_FL]

Well, I think I found my problem. The sleeve that they clutch rides in was somehow rotated out of alignment. It being misaligned means that even though I had pressure, none of that pressure ever made its way to the clutch to engage it. I was able to press it out and press it back in tonight. I will try to get it put back together this weekend. I will keep everyone posted.

Here are some pics of my machine apart.

1. Brake side of the PTO Clutch unit.
2. The entire PTO Clutch unit. It is bigger than it seems.
3. Clutch side of the PTO Clutch
4. The backside of the PTO rear plate with the bearing plate to the left.
5. My machine all opened up. dfkrug - note the rock shaft not removed. I will let you know how easy it is when I get it back together.
6. The hydraulic port the provides the pressure for the PTO clutch
7. This picture tries to show the holes misaligned

 

[dfkrug]

Here are some pics of my machine apart.

Yeah that sure is different. The shaft of your PTO clutch is the spool of
a spool valve, which does the shifting for you. No shifter fork to get in the
way, like on the 4300.

I can see part of you diff lock... it is the same as mine. Can you see how
warn the diff side of the lock is?

(Your pix are hard to see....you need to reduce the size.)

 

[CLinton_in_FL]

Well, it is all back together and running. The PTO is working and I will put it through a stress test later on in the week. I was able to fix it for about $100, and most of that was for the 7 gallons of oil I needed to fill it back up. I did not have to take the rock shaft part off at all. It took me about three hours to get the PTO clutch in, but the next time, I could do it in about 10 minutes... There was a lot of trial and error......


My diff lock was not worn at all... Even though I am the third owner of this tractor, I think it has had an easy life..