Ballast Wheel Weights for 3720 with R4's

   / Wheel Weights for 3720 with R4's #1  

NYBOB

Silver Member
Joined
Feb 4, 2003
Messages
205
Location
Maine NY(Binghamton area)
Tractor
2007 JD 3720
My dealer is telling me I can get 150 lbs on each rear wheel in wheel weights. Does this sound right? I have the tires loaded already and resorted to this since I have a very hilly terrain.

Thanks
 
   / Wheel Weights for 3720 with R4's #2  
Sounds kind of light. a 2305 will take a 72lb starter weight and at least one 50lb weight (maybe 2) per side.

I think you can put multiple 110's (or 1 110 and multiple 55's per side - At least 3-400lbs worth).

My old large R4's (I have R3's now) on my 3320 then 3720 took 900lbs of the 11.6lbs/gal brown wheel weight stuff.

Why not just use a ballast block? Rear ballast is better than wheel weights if you are using a loader (Both are the best).
 
   / Wheel Weights for 3720 with R4's #4  
NYBOB said:
My dealer is telling me I can get 150 lbs on each rear wheel in wheel weights. Does this sound right? Thanks

If you are running R-4's, then this is correct. The R-4 rims can take 55lb weights, max 3 per side per owners manual. On the current Deere build site, I think it offers max of 2 per side. 3 weights plus mounting hardware will probably add about 167lbs per side.

If you are running R-1's, then you can use the larger (110, I believe) weights as the rims are larger in diameter.
 
   / Wheel Weights for 3720 with R4's #5  
NYBOB, I hope you have better luck than I did with trying to get weights for my 3520. I'd have to look to see what I ended up with total per side. It takes one starter weight and then you can stack as many additional weights as you desire. After two though you will be getting out past the edges of the tires. I went with the starter and two additional weights per side and then another custom weight to give a finished look. I've been told by some that these are not the correct weights for my wheels. Who knows???
If you have any questions feel free to ask. I'll help as best I can. Oh, one more thing....... no one seemed to know how the weights mated up to each other or what bolts I needed either. I finally figured it out, it was like a puzzle.
Sincerely, Dirt

Here are some pics of the 3520 in several stages of adding weights.
Below pic: starter weight install.
starterweightinstall.jpg - Image - Photobucket - Video and Image Hosting

Below pic: starter weight installed
wheelwithstarterweight.jpg - Image - Photobucket - Video and Image Hosting

Below pic: starter weight and two add on weights
JDcompleteweights.jpg - Image - Photobucket - Video and Image Hosting

Below pic: Custom center weight
customcenterweight.jpg - Image - Photobucket - Video and Image Hosting
 
   / Wheel Weights for 3720 with R4's
  • Thread Starter
#6  
Dirt,

I made a deal to have them installed at no charge by the dealer. He has to come out and fix a few warranty items and will do it then. Hopefully they are the correct weights.

One thing I have found out, no matter what type of tractor you buy, there are issue with bad information. I am still trying to get JD corporate to tell my dealer that I can dish out my R4 wheels.

I will let you know how I make out.

Thanks
Bob
 
   / Wheel Weights for 3720 with R4's #7  
Bob,

I had wanted to put weights onto my 3720's wheels, but they just did not seem to offer much weight for the dollar. If you or anyone else can note whether they make any real difference in the stability or traction of your tractor, please let me know. I have several tight areas on my property with some really tight turns that prohibit my running or my BB in back for rear ballast. I have my rear tires loaded, but would like more weight. I have a ballast box with 420 pounds of quick tach weights in back, but even it prohibits fitting in some of my tighter areas. It sure would be nice to be able to mount some more weight actually on the tractor such that I could do away with hitch ballast at certain times, but I have felt this option did not add enough weight.

John M
 
   / Wheel Weights for 3720 with R4's #8  
dirtworksequip said:
NYBOB, I hope you have better luck than I did with trying to get weights for my 3520. I'd have to look to see what I ended up with total per side. It takes one starter weight and then you can stack as many additional weights as you desire. After two though you will be getting out past the edges of the tires. I went with the starter and two additional weights per side and then another custom weight to give a finished look. I've been told by some that these are not the correct weights for my wheels. Who knows???
If you have any questions feel free to ask. I'll help as best I can. Oh, one more thing....... no one seemed to know how the weights mated up to each other or what bolts I needed either. I finally figured it out, it was like a puzzle.
Sincerely, Dirt

Dirt, the starter weight you have are the correct weights for your tractor. The starter and additional weights are the same so the "extra" weights that you have probably aren't standard fare. Deere manual does state that 3 weights per side is MAX but I don't know if that is due to them protruding from wheel edge or from excessive weight hanging on rim as the prescribed method of install involves spacers between first weight and rim to allow access to wheel bolts for torque checking or removing wheels with weights on, although the combined weight may make the process overwhelming unless you have a wheel dolly. The installation hardware needed for the R-4 installation is quite simple: M16 x 110mm bolts/nuts/washer (6) for the starter weight to bolt onto rim, LVU10300 spacers (6) to fit between weight and wheel, and M16 x 65mm bolts (3) for each additional weight to be installed. Cost is high, no question but unlike liquid ballast, which is cheaper, can be recaptured and easily removed or moved to another tractor. Two pictures below shows: (1) first weight installed with spacer, which allows access to lug bolts, and (2) second weight installed. I have 3 per side but don't have picture of 3rd weight installed but it looks the same except is flush with sides of rim.

You can see that there are numerous holes in the weights. The recessed holes on the outer edge are for mounting the weights onto rim. This gives a good flat edge to stack the additional weights to. Look closely and you'll see that on each weight, there are three holes tapped for M16-2.0 threads. These holes are intended to receive bolts which mount additional weights. Finally, the 3 holes without the recess that are not threaded are the holes for the bolts that will then bolt onto the threaded portion of the previous weight. Even though they protrude, you will notice that the bolts fit nicely into another recess on the flip side of the weight. Sounds confusing, it really isn't when you have the weights in front of you.
 

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   / Wheel Weights for 3720 with R4's #9  
I've made several posts about my concerns on tractor stability on hilly property. I've never had a stability issue using my 755 with a MMM. It seems to have a low center of gravity. I've had it up on 3 wheels several times when I used the loader w/o a rear ballast but that is it. But overall it seems very balanced. I never mow with the loader btw.

I recently purchased a 3720 which will have a MMM and loader. Wheels set at max tread and unloaded tires. I'll let you know what I think. I don't like to have unecessary weight on the tractor as it is not a positive, unless it is needed..
 
   / Wheel Weights for 3720 with R4's #10  
Superduper, thanks for the explaination and pics. It looks like maybe the only thing I missed out on is the spacers between the starter weights and the wheels. I understand how the recesses and bolts line up and everything after doing my install. I'm OK with the weights I ended up with.................I like my stuff a little different than norm.

Sincerely, Dirt
 
 
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