Tips on CCM top link install on 3720 cab.

[nmu98]

JB,
I ordered the 21" to 32" cat 1.

With the Imatch up, I can make the top link tuber connect with the Imatch frame. But its at a pretty crazy angle and I have no clue what implement you would use at that angle when lowered.

The reason i went long, and not short, is that the Imatch would contact the rear fenders if brought in to less than 20"s..... At least the way I have it set up it would.

I also think the 21 to 32 is a bit larger diameter unit than the others....

[CAB/AIR5225]

Thats cool.....I am going to order one. Other than the top link and hose kit, is there anything else you have to order??

[jdbower]

Originally Posted by CAB/AIR5225

Other than the top link and hose kit, is there anything else you have to order??

That depends on how your tractor's equipped. You may need to buy the quick disconnects seperately or you may need to install your own diverter or valve. I have a list of the components I bought in this post where I started with naught but a PowerBeyond on my 2520.

[CAB/AIR5225]

This will be going on my 5045E, which has a seperate rear service lever, and quick connect couplers....I want the toplink to try and make hooking up to implements easier with the Imatch cat 1, and for like making my boxblade angle adjustments on the fly.

[jdbower]

If you're already set up with a spare hydraulic port you should be about ready to go. Since QDs aren't all that standard you may still need to buy the male ends separately, but I'm sure the guys at CCM will walk you through that process. The easiest way is to pick some up at your dealer if you're not sure what kind/size they are and ask CCM to make sure the hoses match - IIRC the toplink accepted 3/8" hoses and my QDs were 1/4" so I had to reduce the toplink port size.

[Reg]

Originally Posted by CAB/AIR5225

This will be going on my 5045E, which has a seperate rear service lever, and quick connect couplers....I want the toplink to try and make hooking up to implements easier with the Imatch cat 1, and for like making my boxblade angle adjustments on the fly.

It can be a bit HARDER (than a regular top link) for hooking up.
There just isn't the fine slow length adjustment that a turnbuckle type top link gives you.
Instead there is a need to develop a technique of "bumping" the control valve to get 1/4 or 1/8 inch extensions/contractions.
Not saying it is HARD or dangerous, but some care is needed since you typically need to hold the cylinder with one hand and "bump" the lever with the other.

OK, so it COULD BE dangerous - IF you cling to the rod end in some wrong way and use the other hand on the control lever to jam the rod and your hand into the implement.
I cup my open left hand under the ROD part so it is supported but not held, I avoid the actual eye end.
You might have to work out something different that will be safe for you, this works for me.

YES, for on the fly length adjustments.

[nmu98]

Originally Posted by Reg

It can be a bit HARDER (than a regular top link) for hooking up.
There just isn't the fine slow length adjustment that a turnbuckle type top link gives you.
Instead there is a need to develop a technique of "bumping" the control valve to get 1/4 or 1/8 inch extensions/contractions.
Not saying it is HARD or dangerous, but some care is needed since you typically need to hold the cylinder with one hand and "bump" the lever with the other.

OK, so it COULD BE dangerous - IF you cling to the rod end in some wrong way and use the other hand on the control lever to jam the rod and your hand into the implement.
I cup my open left hand under the ROD part so it is supported but not held, I avoid the actual eye end.
You might have to work out something different that will be safe for you, this works for me.

YES, for on the fly length adjustments.

Reg,
He stated that he wanted it to aid in hookup with the I-match. He would not run into the situation you described. Also, I have zero issues moving my cylinders in very small increments. I never need to bump the lever, not even on our very old equipment. I don't think it would be smart to hold the rod while adjusting. Hold on to the case that does not move.....

[CAB/AIR5225]

I was going to use it with an I-Match so I wouldn't have to support the cylinder for hooking up an implement.
OOppps...sorry you beat me to the post!

[CAB/AIR5225]

Well.....I've called down there 3 times and they keep telling me to call back in 15 min.....

[Reg]

OK guys, you don't BOTH have to beat up on me (-:
I missed the I-match part - My excuses ? well, I'm not very familiar with JD option/accessory names.

I have a generic el cheapo "frame style" quicker_hitcher_upper thang that I hardly ever use, that is to say it STAYS on the rototiller. I think that it is approximately a low end I-Match.

Oh, only ONE cup of coffee this morning (my back-up excuse).
Anyway, getting the rod eye into the I-match the first time still requires some care.
My reason for supporting the rod end with one OPEN HAND is to be able to position it easier than if I held the cylinder body.