Tips on CCM top link install on 3720 cab.

[kennyd]

Originally Posted by CAB/AIR5225

Well.....I've called down there 3 times and they keep telling me to call back in 15 min.....

If you do some searching on CCM, you'll find they are in the middle of haying season and VERY busy this time of year...just stick with it till you get them.

[nmu98]

Originally Posted by CAB/AIR5225

Well.....I've called down there 3 times and they keep telling me to call back in 15 min.....

Wow, they must be busy. Be patient, its worth the wait.

[Reg]

Speed of top link movement probably depends on a few factors, not all of which apply to every installation.
Pump output and cylinder diameter are the primary (& obvious) ones, hose diameter and (optionally) flow restricters also figure.
I don't find the CCM top link easy to "feather" for 1/8 or inch movements and that is some function of my particular installation, also the cylinder's pilot valves.
I might add a couple of flow restricters in the hoses of my top link, the outlets are a DIY arrangement and I don't want to impede anything on that side.

[nmu98]

Originally Posted by Reg

Speed of top link movement probably depends on a few factors, not all of which apply to every installation.
Pump output and cylinder diameter are the primary (& obvious) ones, hose diameter and (optionally) flow restricters also figure.
I don't find the CCM top link easy to "feather" for 1/8 or inch movements and that is some function of my particular installation, also the cylinder's pilot valves.
I might add a couple of flow restricters in the hoses of my top link, the outlets are a DIY arrangement and I don't want to impede anything on that side.

What tractor do you have. To add to what you said above, some of the issue might be in your tractors valve. I have operated a few that were open or closed and hard to find the in between. Most of the very fine movements for your top link would most likely be done at or close to idle. Although pump output would make a difference at idle, its not the drastic difference as if it was at full throttle.....

The one thing I find with CCM's toplink and with the check valves is that I can get a low pressure and actually jerk the cylinder out because the pressure is not enough to hold the check valves open. That usually happens when I have the AC on at idle, and i am raising the bucket while moving forward... I am also just about stalling the machine and I usually need caffeine But it can happen...

I have farly small hoses on all of our toplinks as they do not need huge flow...

[Reg]

They happen to be Prince valves in a DIY installation.
I don't have a problem/issue as such, I was just pointing out that, when hooking up, a hydraulic top link doesn't provide the VERY FINE and slow adjustment of a turnbuckle style top link and that this can be a minor factor in adding to any difficulty that someone might have with hooking up implements.
I don't have enough of an issue with hooking up to use either Pat's ends or a frame style quick hitch, I do have telescoping arm ends and I really don't mind getting off/on the tractor an extra time or two - which I have to do for PTO hook-up/uncouple anyway.
"Bumping" works for me, it isn't worth changing valves and it might not even be worth adding restricters - again, for ME.

Oh, here's a bit of fodder for the safety police;
I typically dump my bucket outwards to get the bottom vertical before I hook up an implement.
I get the tractor "close", drop the bucket, do not apply the brake, then dismount.
I use the dump/curl of the bucket to inch the tractor back/forth to get it where I want it for hooking-up.
It works, it is "safe" as long as I only do it when I am BESIDE the tractor's rear wheel and not BEHIND it.
Sometimes I do this to get the top link connected; as well as or instead of using the top link's hydraulic lever.
Sometimes I can't get the top link to extend quite far enough, so I back the tractor up another inch or two with the bucket curl.
It is a bit slower and finer than the top link lever.
Works for ME.

[CAB/AIR5225]

Well....called again. Some guy named Steve is out sick till Monday. Apparently nobody else can place a hydro top link order ??

[kennyd]

Originally Posted by CAB/AIR5225

Well....called again. Some guy named Steve is out sick till Monday. Apparently nobody else can place a hydro top link order ??

Well, it seems that the Surplus Center has the same cylinders as CCM now.

[PSDStu]

Originally Posted by kennyd

Well, it seems that the Surplus Center has the same cylinders as CCM now.

I tried to see if they had any CAT 2 Top Link cylinders and was unable find any.... could only find CAT I.

Stu

[mjncad]

Since CCM is busy with hay season, I ended up getting the longer Cat 1 toplink cylinder from Surplus Center that KennyD posted the link to.

I would like to get an unpainted 4" or 6" cylinder for the sidelink minus the ends; but with the check valve and banjo fittings.

The sticker nmu98 posted way back when is the same as the one on my cylinder.

I think CCM & Surplus Center get their cylinders from Domingos prekyba as I found the check valve and cylinders on their web site.

I just took these photos today.

My sincere thanks to KennyD for his hydraulic wisdom concerning my setup.

[CAB/AIR5225]

Just ordered from Surplus Center....be here in a few days. I ordered the 18" hoses. You think those will work? My remote is close to the top link. If it dont, they were only 6 bucks each, so no big loss. I didnt see the male couplers I need, so I will just get them at TSC or something. Does it matter if you install it valve side up or case or cylinder side to the tractor? Nmu98,.. I noticed that you did not directly thread the hose into the toplink valvebody. Looks like its a male to female adaptor, and then you threaded the hose to that??