How do I take my 460 loader lift cylinders apart to replace the seals?

[pclausen]

My 460 loader (I got a 4700 tractor) drops really fast, so I picked up a pair of rebuilt kits. I got the cylinders removed from the loader and I'm trying to figure out how to take them apart so that I can replace the various o-rings and seals.

One was replaced under warranty a while back, so they are of different designs.

Here's a couple of pictures:

Using a 1/4" extension, I tried banging on the left/top one in a counter clockwise direction (using the hole that appears to be for that purpose), thinking it would unscrew, but so far, I haven't been able to make it move any at all.

The other cylinder has a c-clip, that I should be able to remove fairly easy from the looks of it. But I don't quite see what that will do for me as far as being able to pull the cap out.

Any pointers on how to pop the caps on these cylinders would be greatly appreciated, as well as any pointers in general on how to rebuilt them as I have never done a cylinder rebuilt before.

Thanks!

 

[leonz]

Ok before you get your self hurt or worse:

The one cylinder has a combination packing gland and stuffing box; the other cylinder has an external snap ring to hold it in place in the groove that it is in.

The one requires a specific size pin wrench to open it up and repair/rebuild it it.


I will add more when I go back to look at the photos.

 

[jd110]

The "c-clip" is removed and then you need to tap the cap/guide back into the cylinder about an inch. You should expose a groove on the inside bore of the barrell. The rebuild kit should have an orange split ring in it. This orange ring fits into the exposed groove. Be sure it fits flush down in the groove and then coat it with grease. You should then be able to pull the rod and guide assembly from the barrell. The other cylinder should have a wire ring that needs to be unwound from a slot in the side of the barrell. If you see a slot in the side of the barrell near the guide that looks like it has a rubber plug in it, take a screwdriver and pry it out of the slot. After you get the end pried out, you should be able to twist the guide and wind out the ring. after the ring is out, just pull the rod and guide assembly out.

 

[pclausen]

Thank you!

Man, I would have never figured out how to remove the cap/guide from either cylinders on my own, especially not the one with the packing gland/stuffing box/wire ring.

I'm curious about how to re-install the wire ring, but hopefully that will be obvious once I remove it. I'll post some progress pictures once I get a chance to work on this some more for others that might want to take on this job on their own.

 

[IslandManMitch]

I thought the only reason you would rebuild a cylinder is if it was leaking? How does it affect the speed of lowering? Or is it leaking down from the up position with fluid leaking?

 

[kennyd]

I thought the only reason you would rebuild a cylinder is if it was leaking? How does it affect the speed of lowering? Or is it leaking down from the up position with fluid leaking?

If the seals are bad, they can leak internally. Basically the fluid bypasses the seals and it compresses the cylinder.

 

[IslandManMitch]

Thanks Kenny for enlighten me. I would have thought it was bypassing in the scv. Didn't know it could do it in the cylinder. This is why I like to read the post even when I don't have a problem.

 

[dsgsr]

pclausen, When you do replace the wire ring on the last turn of the threads, make sure you (with your finger) pack some hard grease in that hole the wire ring is placed. This will keep the water/weather out and reduce the rust on the threads of that outside packing nut. I'm sure by now you have found it pretty hard removing that nut

David

 

[pat32rf]

How do you tell if it is internal leakage in the cylinder or the scv? My curl cylinders have been creeping down for a while, then one day they started dropping so fast you could see them move. I figured it was the scv so that night I got the book out to find out what was involved in a scv rebuild. The next day I fired it up and the problem had disappeared. All I can figure is a piece of crud stuck in the scv but I don't know where it would come from (or where it went)

 

[kennyd]

How do you tell if it is internal leakage in the cylinder or the scv? My curl cylinders have been creeping down for a while, then one day they started dropping so fast you could see them move. I figured it was the scv so that night I got the book out to find out what was involved in a scv rebuild. The next day I fired it up and the problem had disappeared. All I can figure is a piece of crud stuck in the scv but I don't know where it would come from (or where it went)

There are a couple way to tell. The easiest is to swap the lift and curl hoses where they connect and see if the problem moves to the lift circuit or stays with the curl circuit. If the problem is the valve-you either have to live with it or replace the valve-there is no "rebuilt" kit for them if the spool is bypassing fluid internally.

Another test involves removing the line on the non-pressurized side of the cylinder and seeing if any fluid leaks out of the port.