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#11 (permalink) |
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Silver Member
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Redmond, WA
Posts: 112
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I should add that with a load of many logs at once, I usually put a chain around them if I have to go long distance or over rough ground. Just helps prevent them from shifting and causing needless scares. Just moving them around my paved storage area I don't bother with the chain.
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#13 (permalink) |
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Silver Member
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Redmond, WA
Posts: 112
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Yep -JD sells weights that bolt-onto the wheels of the 2320. I think they are about 70 or 100 lbs each - and you can put more than one on each rear wheel I believe - and they go for about $1 per pound. You can always try without anything on the rear carefully and see if you end up tilting forward when you slam the brakes on with a distributed load on the pallet forks. I have not tried to move heavy loads of logs without my box blade on, but I have moved full buckets of gravel with only the loaded tires, and it can become unstable with the bucket fully raised while moving - don't try it on unlevel ground. If you have logs out to the tips of the forks, I assume it will be worse. Just keep your hand on the stick so you can drop the bucket/forks as soon as you feel the rear lift. It will come right back down. I find it is best to learn the hard way. Then I know what the limit is.
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#15 (permalink) |
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Silver Member
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Viva Manchvegas!
Posts: 224
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Cat,
Read your manual for the loader. JD says that a minimum amount of ballast would be a loaded ballast box AND either loaded tires or a full set (6, 60lb weights) of rear wheel weights. A 200cx on a 2320 can lift about 1/2 ton at the pins, so you have to add that amount on the rear to counter balance. However, you have to take into account that wheel weights and/or loaded tires do not provide the same function as a loaded weight box. A weight box, suspended on the 3pt arms actually decreases weight loads on the front axle as the ballast box uses the rear axle as a pivot point like a see-saw. The front axle on the 2x20 series (or any of the xx20 series for that matter, or else Deere wouldn't call for a ballast box) is not meant to work with a loader lifting maximum loads without the counterbalance of a filled weight box in the rear. Now, don't get me wrong, I use my loader without a ballast box a lot of times for light loads, (wood shavings, lawn debris, large bulky items that weigh under 300 lbs) however I have weights and loaded tires. Whenever I am going to lift anything heavy, on goes my Portland filled ballast box. As far as the 4 in 1 for the 200cx, the smaller JD one goes about 600Lbs, that being said, you would have about 400 Lbs lifting capacity which I think you would find very limited. There are other manufactures that make 4 in 1's that weigh less but in real world use, you have to get into the construction grade equipment level for them to work like they are meant to. (Now I know I'm ruffling the feathers of the guys with the 300 and 400 CX's out there but I ran a Case 580 with a 4 in 1 and an articulated wheel loader for a few years, there is no comparison between construction equipment and farm loaders on the xx20 series) My 2 cents, Tom
__________________
Green tractor, Orange tractor and a whole lot more. "Congelo nos opus, quantum punitor ingravesco" |
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#16 (permalink) | |
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Bronze Member
Join Date: Oct 2008
Posts: 65
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Quote:
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#17 (permalink) |
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Gold Member
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: South Metro, Minnesota
Posts: 419
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Fill the ballast with concrete. You might want to consider putting PVC pipes in the ballast box (with drainage holes) before the concrete for hand tool carrying if that is important to you. There are many, many examples here on TBN.
Once you have the ballast box you may also want to make a wheeled dolly for it to sit on - makes moving 600# a whole bunch easier. Good luck! Scott |
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#18 (permalink) |
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Bronze Member
Join Date: Oct 2008
Posts: 65
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I got my forks and ballest box today.. picked up some ready mix concrete as well.. what do yea mean drain hole's?? in the bottom of the box im thinking right.. other then that I think Im set.. got the normal bucket, heavy duty bucket with tooth bar,forks,mower,ballest,and rear blade..
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#19 (permalink) |
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Gold Member
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: South Metro, Minnesota
Posts: 419
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Yes, drain holes drilled through the bottom of the ballast box directly under the PVC pipe(s) that are secured to the bottom of the ballast box. Most folks are using a silicone sealer to secure the PVC prior to pouring the concrete in the ballast box - seems to work well and a few folks have really nice setups.
Good luck! Scott |
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#20 (permalink) |
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Bronze Member
Join Date: Oct 2008
Posts: 65
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Thanks you.. I got 4 pieces of pipe cut to length and tomorrow I will drill the holes and put the pipes in with silicone.. then let that dry all day and come home and mix the concrete up...
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