Mounting License Plates on 2520

[Kamik]

Today I registered my 2520 with the state Bureau of Motor Vehicles as a "Road Tractor". This allows me to drive it on all state maintained roads except where expressly prohibited.

So, where would you advise me to mount the two required plates?

And although the warning/emergency flashers may be used, would you recommend a rotating amber beacon too although it is not required?

Kamik (prone to do a foolish thing once in a while)

 

[aczlan]

And although the warning/emergency flashers may be used, would you recommend a rotating amber beacon too although it is not required?

YES, they are ~30-50 at your local autoparts or tractor place and are well worth it..
Aaron Z

 

[Nuru]

Gee, register it for road use? What tires are you going to use? the reason I ask is that the R3's are a bit soft for the road and will probably wear quickly.

 

[jdbower]

How about using magnets to allow you to mount the plate wherever you want depending on your configuration? On a ROPS upright may work, but if you've got a big attachment that may be a better place. If your state uses reflective plates (I'd imagine most do these days) perhaps on or below the reflective warning triangle?

Since you've got two I assume one needs to be in the front, perhaps on the FEL bucket or the front attachment plate depending on configuration. The front grill may be a better choice, but I'd hesitate to keep that blocked with a permanent attachment.

 

[Karl2]

Gee, register it for road use?

Most states require that a tractor that is to be driven on public roads be registered and carry a license plate. The plate can be either as a farm tractor, construction machinery or commercial vehicle. The farm tractor and construction plate are cheaper but carry restrictions on road use while a commercial plate usually allows a tractor to be driven on all roads at all times except divided highways without restrictions because issuance of a commercial plate is only allowed if the vehicle is properly insured and is already fitted with the equipment required for 24-hour operation on public roads: headlights, taillights, turn signals and high-intensity flashers (hazards) that must be turned on whenever the tractor uses a public road.

A typical example of a commercial tractor is one used for snow removal that travels from client to client, often in densely populated urban areas with dense traffic. Those need to be 100% street legal and 500% insured lol. There is probably a minimal tractor size required for registration, for example I doubt that a 4 mph yard tractor could be licensed for road use.

Beacon is recommended if the tractor doesn't have a cab with roof mounted hazards. JD factory cabs have such hazards and even though some have the beacon kit I noticed that it's mostly used on those models with the hazards that turn off whenever work lights are turned on. This rather annoying "feature" appears to be JD's way of preventing operators from using the work lights while driving on the road... or a strategy to sell more beacon kits. For my part I rewired the hazards so that they remain on even when I use the work lights so I don't need a beacon. Already paid JD $400 for a pair of external rear view mirrors because in my state they are mandatory for commercial tractors equipped with rear snowblowers, that's enough cash already. Another reason is that a rotating beacon's reflection on snow can make one dizzy. At least the hazards don't spin. Some cities where beacons are mandatory on snow removal vehicles consider the JD cab hazards as such so we get a free pass. During snow removal using these lights allows operators to perform technically illegal maneuvers such as U-turns and backing out of one-way streets without being pulled over when traffic allows. In essence the flashers or beacon signal other drivers that the operator may suddenly do something idiotic any second. I love it

 

[Kamik]

Hi Everyone,

I'm glad to hear your recommendation for a rotating amber beacon since I've been thinking the same thing. Top speed is about 13 mph and no drivers will be expecting to come up behind a slow moving tractor. The more visible we are the better!

Originally, I wanted R3's but ended up with R4's. On the farm where I'm harvesting stones from broken down walls, we decided that the risk of tire puncture with R3's was greater than the extra damage that might be done by the more agressive tread of the R4's. Subsequently I've found that, while the R4's are very hard and nearly indestructable, they still provide sufficient traction for moving snow with the FEL. So I think that provided I don't drive over any glare ice they'll be fine on the road.

The reflective warning triangle is a great idea. With your suggestion in mind I took a look at the mounting bracket for the slow moving vehile sign, both on the tractor and in the parts catalog. The sign bracket is held captive by the same two bolts that hold the left rear turn/warning light. I think I'll whip up another like it (mirror image of course) and use it to mount the rear license plate to the ROPS and right rear turn/warning light.

As for the front license plate, tomorrow morning I'll take a look at the front weight bracket and see how well the holes line up.

Thanks for all your suggestions, I really appreciate your input.

Kamik

 

[burtco99]

I own a 2520 and have registered it for on road use(the cost here in Quebec is only a few dollars more than an off-road registration so why not&!)

I mounted the rear plate so it overlaps the bottom portion of the SMV triangle. Here we don't use front plates, but I think that mounting one to the upper bar of the front grill guard (if you have a 200CX FEL) would be ideal as the plate remains visible when front weights and/or the FEL are installed.

Regarding warning beacons, I strongly recommend a warning strobe mounted high on the ROPS. In that position, the strobe is visible from all directions, especially from the sides where the 2520's warning lights are much less effective. I speak from experience as I had 2 close calls prior to the installation of a strobe. Both times were in the late afternoon when I backed out onto the edge of the road during a snow storm to clean the entrance to my property. It was obvious that the drivers did not see me in the blowing snow until they were within 15-20 feet of my driveway. I in turn did not see them either! A strobe is much more visible in such conditions, reducing some of the risk!

Another advantage is that a strobe draws less power, and doesn't have the annoying rotating distraction already mentioned earlier.

 

[JohnDeere4300]

Today I registered my 2520 with the state Bureau of Motor Vehicles as a "Road Tractor". This allows me to drive it on all state maintained roads except where expressly prohibited.

So, where would you advise me to mount the two required plates?

And although the warning/emergency flashers may be used, would you recommend a rotating amber beacon too although it is not required?

Kamik (prone to do a foolish thing once in a while)

What state do you live in ?

 

[Karl2]

Here we don't use front plates, but I think that mounting one to the upper bar of the front grill guard (if you have a 200CX FEL) would be ideal as the plate remains visible when front weights and/or the FEL are installed.

There are many states that don't have front plates for cars but even in those that have them (like mine) some don't require them on tractors. I was only issued a single plate anyway. Kamik, maybe you should make sure you really need to install the front plate, could be optional.

Regarding warning beacons, I strongly recommend a warning strobe mounted high on the ROPS.

Good call! Those strobes make for excellent visibility.