Can I remove a sway block w/out harming my tractor???

[carolinadozer]

I have a small rototiller attachment that requires me to remove one or both of my sway bracket for my 3 pt hitch to complete the installation. Will this cause any damage to the tractor (JD 2440) during the tilling process?????

[AKfish]

I'm guessing that the tiller is a CAT 1 and your 2440 is CAT 2, yes? So, you need to bring the arms in closer together?

Rototilling usually isn't done at high speed... and the likelihood that you'll be spinning around in a sharp turn at the end of the field isn't very high. So, the 3pt arms and the tiller shouldn't be swinging about wildly and hitting the tires, etc. Right??

Shouldn't be a problem --- but, I'd keep the lower sway chains adjusted and a close eye on 'em while I was working.

I think the biggest issue is keeping your PTO shaft in alignment with the tiller and not allowing it to drift too much from one side to the other.

Did I ever tell you about the time I broke (cracked 'em apart) the lower sway blocks on a JD 2020? The foreman wanted me to run wide open and "get 'er done"!! That 3pt disc harrow was just flyin' - even on the turns at the end of the field!! After he saw the sway blocks - he said I should ease off the throttle..

AKfish

[RickB]

If the tiller was built to category I specifications, you should be able to TURN the tractor's sway blocks to achieve the proper spacing of the draft link ends allowing attachment to the tiller. Often folks don't realize this, remove one or both sway blocks, misplace them, and make it difficult for the next guy who may want to use the 3PT properly. Of course, if the manufacturer of the tiller failed to adhere to the 3pt dimensional standards ( all too common any more) all bets are off.

[jenkinsph]

Carolina Dozer, I think in the long run you will find it much better to add the hitch pins to make the tiller Cat 2 instead. All the other implements you should buy will be either a combination Cat 1 and 2 or Cat 2 only, and all of these will work with the sway blocks in place as they should. So it only makes sense to fix the tiller so it will work too.

Next, I bet the tiller gearbox is not rated for a 60 hp tractor either.



Steve

[tech141]

Thought I'd piggy-back on this one. I bought a JD 2020 a few months ago, and just realized it doesn't have the sway blocks on it...


Is it imperative I get sway blocks for the beast before I start churning and burning with my brush hog, landscape rake and disc harrow?

Will I hurt the tractor pulling those attachments without the sway blocks?

[Tx Jim]

Thought I'd piggy-back on this one. I bought a JD 2020 a few months ago, and just realized it doesn't have the sway blocks on it...


Is it imperative I get sway blocks for the beast before I start churning and burning with my brush hog, landscape rake and disc harrow?

Will I hurt the tractor pulling those attachments without the sway blocks?

I think without swayblocks to take up some slack it puts undue strain on the load control shaft that draft links attach to.

[Tx Jim]

Carolina Dozer, I think in the long run you will find it much better to add the hitch pins to make the tiller Cat 2 instead. All the other implements you should buy will be either a combination Cat 1 and 2 or Cat 2 only, and all of these will work with the sway blocks in place as they should. Steve

Steve
How is changing the lower draft link pins from Cat l to Cat ll or vice-verse going to affect sway block usage. On Cat l hitch the pins are 26' apart and on Cat ll hitch they are 32 '' apart. Changing to Cat ll pins the only advantage I see is possible elimination of the need for Cat l to Cat ll bushings but swayblock requirements will be the same.

[Verticaltrx]

Steve
How is changing the lower draft link pins from Cat l to Cat ll or vice-verse going to affect sway block usage. On Cat l hitch the pins are 26' apart and on Cat ll hitch they are 32 '' apart. Changing to Cat ll pins the only advantage I see is possible elimination of the need for Cat l to Cat ll bushings but swayblock requirements will be the same.

Actually, there are at least 3 settings for the sway blocks. Set narrow (flat) for Cat I with no sway or Cat II with some side sway, wide (on edge) for Cat II with no sway, and flipped up for Cat I with sway. In the last setting they will lock out sway on a Cat I implement when it is raised all the way up.

As for the 2020 in the pic you aren't hurting anything as it is. You still have the side plates which the sway blocks mount to which is most important. If you are using Cat I implements and don't mind some side to side sway I'd say you are fine.

Regardless, I could never recommend someone going out and buying the sway blocks to re-install. IMO they were a horrible system, much better off to convert to check chains or adjustable bar type stabilizers.

[jenkinsph]

Steve
How is changing the lower draft link pins from Cat l to Cat ll or vice-verse going to affect sway block usage. On Cat l hitch the pins are 26' apart and on Cat ll hitch they are 32 '' apart. Changing to Cat ll pins the only advantage I see is possible elimination of the need for Cat l to Cat ll bushings but swayblock requirements will be the same.

Jim, I meant add the Cat 2 pins with proper spacing not change out pins or use bushings at the narrower spacing.


I much prefer sway blocks to check chains on a hitch, easier to deal with and works extremely well for me. My new 4520 uses the sway bars (rods) and is more trouble than the older 820 to hookup.

[DT86]

Actually, there are at least 3 settings for the sway blocks. Set narrow (flat) for Cat I with no sway or Cat II with some side sway, wide (on edge) for Cat II with no sway, and flipped up for Cat I with sway. In the last setting they will lock out sway on a Cat I implement when it is raised all the way up.

It is also possible to set one side one way and the other side a different way, we had to do that a few times on our old 2355 to achieve the desired results. Just remember... don't leave your 19mm wrench at home!!