3320 300 hour review

[Killer_B]

I have owned this tractor now for a little over two years. For me, this is a record. Here is what I took deliver of on 8/18/07:

3320 Hydro, Turf Tires
300 CX W/ 61" HD Bucket
72" MMM
3rd SCV
Remote lines for angle blade on loader
Cool brush guard
Auto cruise
Telescoping lower links
Rear work light

Total price $25,000.00, with 6% MI tax that's $26,500.00 OTD.

I did a 200 hour review on this tractor on 10/16/08 that can be found here.

Honestly, there is not much new to tell. The last year and approximately 100 hours have been nearly as uneventful as the first 200 hours. The tractor continues to perform beautifully. The only things I have done since my 200 hour report were to change the oil, oil filter, and the battery. More on the battery later.

Observations regarding this machine for anyone considering its purchase:

1. So far it continues to give the impression of a solid, high quality tractor
2. The smooth, linear nature of the E-hydro never gets old
3. The auto style cruise control is well worth the extra $85.00 or so
4. I like the telescoping lower links
5. I like the way the loader goes off and on
6. Even though the MMM goes off and on in under 7 minutes, I don't like doing it anymore
7. The turf tires get great traction on snow
8. The "light switch" nature of the electrically operated PTO seems fine on all implements except the brush hog- it bangs real hard when engaging
9. I don't miss the clutch, except for #8
10. The break pedals on the left side make much more sense than having them on the right (next to the hydro pedals) ala Kubota
11. This thing starts better in the middle of winter than a gas engine- no block heater needed

The only real problem I had was with the battery. It never failed electrically, but it leaked all over the place. I knew this was a common failure, and resolved to keep a close eye on it. But alas, I went about 6 months without opening the hood. Below is was I found. The fix was pretty straight forward: Remove the battery, treat with baking soda and a scotch bright pad, paint with satin black rustoleum, replace battery with Interstate unit for $72.00.

Overall, I have to say that I really like this tractor and seem to have finally found just the right porage.

KB

 

[JD755]

Like many of us I also have experienced the battery corrosion problem. I have done a lot of clean up in the past with my behind-the-dash battery location. The vent caps tend to weep acid in small amounts with the tilt angles and bouncing tractors have to sustain. I really minimized the problem by venting those caps away from the tractor with one common cap and a tube to below the tractor.

 

[Killer_B]

JD,

Where did you get that fancy cap? Do you think it would fit my new battery?

Thanks!

KB

 

[JD755]

My John Deere batteries always come with that tossed in the box. Sometimes the parts guy tries to throw it away when he hands me the battery. Since the battery already has the standard caps on it I expect he wonders why it is even there. I suppose there is some application for it that requires remote venting. I have never looked for them separately, but I would check the auto parts shops that sell batteries, or even stop by John Deere to maybe get one free before the parts guy throws it out. My battery is a TY6192.

 

[Cocre]

Thx Killer_B for the review. I own a 3320 that is approaching 400 hours, 215 of them mine. I too have had battery issues, but mine was not an acid leak, it just went weird on me. So a new maintenance free battery from NAPA now sits in its place. Lowering your RPM before engaging the PTO will take some of the bang out of it, but you probably know that already.

 

[Killer_B]

Cocre,

Any problems with yours other than the battery?

KB

 

[Cocre]

Cocre,

Any problems with yours other than the battery?

KB

The LoadMatch began acting "funny" a few weeks back. After the Tractor got hot (warmed up, not hot) when the LoadMatch was engaged and the tractor was run below 1700 RPM the tractor would barely move. Running the RPMs up a bit and it was just like old. Another person told me they had the same problem and took it to the dealer. The dealer replaced the throttle position sensor and fixed his problem. I calibrated mine using the technical manual and it solved my issue. The sensor is probably going bad (heat related), it cost $85 and is simple to replace, but I will leave it be for the time being.

I have also rebuilt both stabilizer cylinders on the 447 backhoe. Simple job and low cost; under 2 hours and under $20 in parts (total). They had been weeping just about since I bought the tractor a year ago, but I was too lazy to fix them until a few days back. After looking at the rod end of the cylinder I believe the previous owner left the backhoe outside with the stabilizers up, exposed to the rain and elements. The inside of the cylinders were lightly rusted right down to where the gland o-ring sealed. I touch sanded the rust off and installed new o-rings and seals, and so far no more oil leaking. It was very minor leakage anyway, hardly enough to worry about.

Other than that it has been problem free. I love the tractor.

 

[WH401]

Thanks for the review. I too have a 3320 and just turned 100 hrs on it(90 of them by me). I also have had battery issues, though mine were further along than yours. I suspect it probably started around the time when the original owner bought it in 06. The caps leaked acid all over the battery compartment, like most have. So, I cleaned up the surfaces with a spray of baking soda and water, then hosed it off, allowed it to dry, and then treated it with a coating of fluid film. I haven't had a problem since. Eventually I plan to replace it with a sealed Optima battery, to rid me of this issue once and for all. Other then that though, it's been a great tractor, and has helped a lot by cutting my total cut time by more than half.

 

[BloomingtonMike]

I changed mine out early on. I am at 236 hours or so and bought mine in September of 2005 I guess with 19 hours.

Here is the battery I have in it now and since about 60 hours.

 

[nmu98]

I changed mine out early on. I am at 236 hours or so and bought mine in September of 2005 I guess with 19 hours.

Here is the battery I have in it now and since about 60 hours.

What model optima is that?

 

[KennK]

Oh man, I am hard on my JD 3320.

Last fall I accidentally put gasoline in it. I used a different gas station than normal to get diesel, and the pump I used was off to the side with a green handle (usually that means diesel), but it pumped gasoline. Turned out on all of the other pump islands there that nozzle WAS diesel, except the island I picked. It was marked unleaded, but I missed that. Sigh. Stupid Stupid Stupid.

No immediate damage. It started smoking and I stopped it quick and called the dealer. He cleaned it out and returned it. Now a year later one injector went bad - not sure if related, but might have been. Not too expensive a fix.

Last spring I had to pull a truck out of some mud with the 3320. I hooked a tow strap to the drawbar (I'm always careful to pull straight forward) and must have bumped the shifter knob with my fat butt - it ended up in the high gear. I over-revved the tachometer and broke it - such that the tach gave random readings - must have been sliding on the shaft or something. Sigh. Had to replace the entire instrument cluster - about $700.

Now its back home and good as new.

Last winter was especially cold. I parked it outside one night (I have a barn) and it didn't want to start in the morning. I put a blanket over the engine and a light bulb underneath - that was enough to get it started after a few hours of heating. When I had the tractor in to get the new instrument cluster I asked them to install an engine heater. Turns out it already had one - they said that the cord was hidden well - even they almost missed it. Sigh. When I'd bought it I'd asked about an engine heater. He said it didn't need one. I never thought about whether it might have already had one. Sigh.

BTW, I have the same corrosion issue with the battery. Have thought about swapping in a maintenance free once next year.

I really REALLY like the tractor. It felt kind of big at first, but now I'm very comfortable with it and it maneuvers like a dream. Though I still have to be careful with low-hanging branches hitting the ROPS.

I think I've read about others that also have a problem with tight ROPS pins - the ones you'd remove to fold it down. They are wedged in so tight that I've just never bothered to remove them. I'm afraid they won't go back in. Kind of odd.

I find the lube points on the 3pt hitch are a pain. The ones on the arms don't take grease well - too much back pressure.

I have a MMM - 60" 7 Iron Mid-Mount Mower Deck. It comes off pretty well, but I find it a pain to put on each spring. My biggest trouble seems to be inserting the drive into the mid PTO (sometimes it goes right in, but most times its a struggle) and when pivoting the front bracket it seems like the deck has to be setting juuuust right, otherwise I pull and pull and pull. There had to have been an easier way.

Oh, I also wish the MMM could ride higher than it does. In must that thing can become a real nasty anchor. If I had it to do over again I might have purchased a 3PH finish mower.

Ken

 

[ChuckinNH]

Killer_B, I'm curious how well you like the snow removal attachments on your JD compared to how well the blower worked on your previous Orange tractors.

 

[DanD78]

I have had my 3320 for a year now and have 80 hours. I had a block heater installed and the dealer said I would not need it. I tried to start it one day last winter when it was around zero and it would not go no matter how long I held the heater on. Plug it in for an couple of hours and it started like summer time. I think the block heater just makes it easier on the engine to strart and you don't get all the blue smoke.

So far I love the tractor I use the forks and 4in1 the most.

Dan

 

[GreatWhitehunter]

Where do you look for the block heater cord? I've been wanting on for awhile.
Does every 3320 come with a pto shaft facing forward under the tractor? I've got my rear pto of course but I was mowing an found a pto cover on the ground. I crawled under the tractor and there's a pto shaft facing forward towards the front of the tractor. I guess I never noticed it since it was covered. I've got the selector switch on the dash but never needed to touch it. Sorry to hijack. I've got just over 250 on my 3320 and have had relativly few issues.

Matt

 

[B8FISH]

I believe that the mid-PTO is an option. Not too expensive when ordered initially, and a definite plus when considering resale value. I ordered mine with the mid-PTO even with no intention of having or using a MMM--always thought I might get a broom for the front, or that the next owner would want to add the mid-mower. I think I lost that nifty little cover on my first MX-5 mowing trip ;-(

 

[WH401]

Where do you look for the block heater cord? I've been wanting on for awhile.
Does every 3320 come with a pto shaft facing forward under the tractor? I've got my rear pto of course but I was mowing an found a pto cover on the ground. I crawled under the tractor and there's a pto shaft facing forward towards the front of the tractor. I guess I never noticed it since it was covered. I've got the selector switch on the dash but never needed to touch it. Sorry to hijack. I've got just over 250 on my 3320 and have had relativly few issues.

Matt

I bought my block heater from the dealer, around $70 I think, just haven't gotten around to installing it.

That's most likely where the cover came from. The mid pto comes standard on e-hydro machines, and it's a field-installed option on PR's.

 

[GreatWhitehunter]

I bought my block heater from the dealer, around $70 I think, just haven't gotten around to installing it.

That's most likely where the cover came from. The mid pto comes standard on e-hydro machines, and it's a field-installed option on PR's.

I thought it was a mid pto but I asked when I bought it and was told rear pto only. It's good to know it's there if I need it. It's really only good if I'm running a mmm right?

Matt

 

[B8FISH]

From the owners manual:

Using Rear and Mid-PTO (Operator on Seat)
NOTE: The mid-PTO is available as optional equipment, and is only operational with the operator on the seat.

 

[CorporateOffRoader]

I purchased my 3320 used last February, it had 625 hours on it. Now it has 750 hours on it and I have been nothing but happy with it. It was outfitted with the brackets and power beyond fittings for a backhoe, but the previous owner kept that. I was told by his nephew that he only used the backhoe once, there isn't much wear on the brackets, so I tend to believe him. It had a different battery in it when I got it, and there wasn't any corrosion to speak of. I have a 5' King Kutter box blade and 5' brush hog along with the 300 CX loader. I am amazed at the pulling power of this little tractor, I use it all the time around the house and 5 acre yard. Mine is in a heated shop, so no need for the block heater I built a 3pt receiver hitch to move my camper and trailer around, so much easier than moving it with the truck!

 

[Killer_B]

Hi Chuck,

Sorry for the delay in my reply. I've been away for a while.

I like the blower on the back and the plow on the front. That way I can use the plow on the light stuff and the blower on the heavy stuff without having to change anything on the tractor.

I think the perfect set up would be a rear blower and a front FRAME MOUNTED angle plow. The loader mounted unit has some weirdness to it, but it is serviceable.

Best Regards,

KB