Converted 2520 wannabe 20amp alternator to a real 45amp

[2305JD]

Hi folks,

One of my tasks in getting my 2520 ready for snow with the new Jodale Perry cab was converting the factory 20 amp alternator with external voltage regulator, safety, relay, and diode to a real 45 amp alternator with all that stuff built in. It is similar to one you would see in a car. If I ever have a problem with it in the future it's a 10 minute job to switch it.

It was hours this time as I had to partially jack the cab off the tractor just to remove the control panel with dash and the lower shroud where the ignition key, parking, etc... are found.

It was nerve racking but not that bad. A while back I communicated with labrat on this forumn adn got great pointers, thanks... Recently I purchased the shop manual for the 2520 and it had an amazing electrical schematic in it showing the original set up like mine (2007) and the new set up with the same type of alternator I installed becasue they started using them on the 2008 2520's.

Basically, you have to eliminate the regulator, safety, relay and diode as the work in sync with the OEM 20 amp and redirect the switched power feed from the regulator into the ignition port on the alt. and run another switched power feed originally from the safety relay through the dash "idiot" iight and back to the light port on the alt. Finally, I made up a heavy duty power feed from the starter stud to the power stud on the alt. I put an inline fuse holder in along the way that can be seen in the pics.

Now if I could just get my cab heater to work properlly, I'd be ready for snow.


Thanks,

Mario

 

[2305JD]

Hi folks,

One of my tasks in getting my 2520 ready for snow with the new Jodale Perry cab was converting the factory 20 amp alternator with external voltage regulator, safety, relay, and diode to a real 45 amp alternator with all that stuff built in. It is similar to one you would see in a car. If I ever have a problem with it in the future it's a 10 minute job to switch it.

It was hours this time as I had to partially jack the cab off the tractor just to remove the control panel with dash and the lower shroud where the ignition key, parking, etc... are found.

It was nerve racking but not that bad. A while back I communicated with labrat on this forumn adn got great pointers, thanks... Recently I purchased the shop manual for the 2520 and it had an amazing electrical schematic in it showing the original set up like mine (2007) and the new set up with the same type of alternator I installed becasue they started using them on the 2008 2520's.

Basically, you have to eliminate the regulator, safety, relay and diode as the work in sync with the OEM 20 amp and redirect the switched power feed from the regulator into the ignition port on the alt. and run another switched power feed originally from the safety relay through the dash "idiot" iight and back to the light port on the alt. Finally, I made up a heavy duty power feed from the starter stud to the power stud on the alt. I put an inline fuse holder in along the way that can be seen in the pics.

Now if I could just get my cab heater to work properlly, I'd be ready for snow.


Thanks,

Mario

Sorry, I forgot the best part. The upgrade kit from JD was $600 to make the OEM 20 amp into a 35 amp. I spent $163 on the 45 amp alternator and $30 on fuse holder, fuse, wire and wire lugs for a grand total of $193.

Take Care...

 

[jenkinsph]

Mario,
That is excellent, this should help with lighting alot.

When I purchased my 110tlb in 2005 I ordered the upgraded alternator in anticipation of the cab install. Never regretted it, now the upgrade for it is the standard offering.

 

[kennyd]

Great job, I love it! That is what I am going to do to my 4110 if the stock one goes out.

 

[Henri88]

Sorry, I forgot the best part. The upgrade kit from JD was $600 to make the OEM 20 amp into a 35 amp. I spent $163 on the 45 amp alternator and $30 on fuse holder, fuse, wire and wire lugs for a grand total of $193.

Take Care...

Mario, $193.00! Your killing me.

 

[KennedyDiesel]

Great job, I love it! That is what I am going to do to my 4110 if the stock one goes out.

I don't think it ever will. Even if it does, there is just a single bearing to replace. My 455 lost the bearing and for less than $10 I was rolling again.

I still say these would work good on home made wind generators.

 

[Huskerplowboy]

Nice upgrade. I'd like to do an alternator upgrade so I can run all my cab worklights at the same time. Can you post the part numbers/sources for the stuff you used?

 

[glc24]

When did they switch it to a 40 amp,and why was it a 20 in the first place?

Greg

 

[Henri88]

When did they switch it to a 40 amp,and why was it a 20 in the first place?

Greg

They come standard with a 20 amp. But if you put a cab with the extra heater and lighting, they recommend a 35 amp. alternator. The problem is that the 35 amp. is price about $600.00. The 45 amp. was Mario doing his due diligence and coming up with a system almost $400.00 cheaper.

 

[2305JD]

Nice upgrade. I'd like to do an alternator upgrade so I can run all my cab worklights at the same time. Can you post the part numbers/sources for the stuff you used?

Hi,

I dont have any part numbers but basically what I bought is a 40 amp alternator from a local alternator shop that is similar to the ones John Deere uses in the newer 2520's. It is one that is very similar to ones used in a toyota forklift. If you search this forum for one of my previous posts on alternators from a couple of months ago you will see a picture that someone posted of the actual alternator in the new 2520. I used that pic and took the Nippendenso part number from it and the local guys sourced me basically the same alternator.

Other than that it was very minor parts like a few feet of wire and a fuse holder with fuse.

What I had that made it possible was the service manual which showed my current layout with the "wannabe" alternator as well as the layout for the newer 2520's so I basically eliminated the external regulator, diode and safety relay and wired it like the new ones are.

Pay really close attention to the manual and make sure you have the proper layout before you start connecting wires.

Overall it was very nerve racking but I took my time and it wasnt that bad. It took more time to rip apart the dash and find the wires than the actual hook up. It's only a few wires your dealing with. The whole job took me about 6 hours from start to finish as I had to partially remove the cab off the tractor just to get the dash ond plastic shroud off.

The beauty is that if you ever need to change the alternator in the future after doing this upgrade it's a simple 5 minute job to remove it.

Good Luck...