Low Cab Heat in Jodale Perry - Help???

[2305JD]

Hi again folks,

The last piece of my puzzle in getting my Jodale Perry cab fitted on my 2520 is making the heater work properly.

I have referenced in some of my other posts that I'm not getting it to heat up enough.

I have the supply hose hooked up at the top of the thermostat housing where the lower rad hose is and the return hooked up where the plug used to be on the opposite side of the tractor where the upper rad hose is hooked up. This is according to the instructions in Jodale Perry's manual.

I have the JD local mechanic telling me it's backwards and the hoses should be hooked up the other way.

A mechanic buddy of mine looked at the set up and tech manual and thinks the hoses are correct the way I have them and figures the Thermostat is partially open and not allowing the tractor to run hot enough therfore low cab heat.

My tech manual says that the operating temperature of the Thermostat is is partially open at 157 - 163 F and fully open at 185 F. After letting the tractor run for almost an hour last night the most temp I got when checking the hoses and fitting at the block was 145 F.

Has anyone ever had a problem with a Thermostat on a 2520?

I'm reaching out for any help here. Please any comments would be great!!!

Thanks,

Mario

 

[Labrat]

The supply hose should be the fitting before the thermostat and the return should be entering the water pump or near the lower radiator hose. The supply should go into the bottom of the heater core and return out the top.

 

[kennyd]

Was the tractor just running at idle or at a lower RPM? The fans are driven constantly so the engines run VERY cool at low RPM's-almost to low. I think after you start working the tractor plowing or blowing the temps will increase.

 

[bigtiller]

I am getting on the band wagon with Kennyd. Make the engine work and the temps will rise.

 

[2305JD]

The supply hose should be the fitting before the thermostat and the return should be entering the water pump or near the lower radiator hose. The supply should go into the bottom of the heater core and return out the top.

Thanks for the info. I confirmed that the hoses were reversed. I hooked them up as per the Jodale Perry manual and the have a very detailed instruction that is printed incorrect. They label the side where the lower rad hose is as the supply side and where the upper rad hose is tied in as the return side. Also they had the supply hose going into the top of the heater core and return out the bottom. I had already switched those a couple of weeks ago after talking to their engineers 5 times.

After getting hoses switched around and refilling the rad I was getting a little better heat tonight. After 30 minutes I got 122 F at the vents and 88 F in the cab.

I then let it run another half hour and kept toping the rad until it stayed full of antifreeze without dropping. I assumed this meant the air was purged out but I'm not sure. It ran a almost full RPM's the whole hour. I then put the rad cap on and took it for a ride up and down the road for 10 minutes. While doing this the temp dropped to 111 F out of the vents.

I did have the roof of when running it for an hour and while driving down the road so I don't know if that would have caused the drop in temp while driving. When I pulled back into the shop it started raising up again.

The ambient air temp is 24 F out tonight and while I was testing it was in the shop by a 10' overhead door that was wide open.

Any other ideals. I don't want to start ripping out the thermostat if not required but other than tonights hose swapping and installing the replacement heater from Jodale yesterday I dont know what else to try.

Could there still be air in the system? Could it be a bad stat that is stuck partially open, not allowing it to run hot enough.

I just done think it will perform like it should when I'm out in the blowing snow, which is on it's way soon enough in our neck of the woods.

Any help would be great.

Thanks,

Mario

 

[Henri88]

Mario, I still say that your heating unit is now working fine. If you have a problem, it would have to be your thermostat. But I really think that every thing is working the way it is suppose to. You may have to add and extra water pump, but never the less, you can still finish installing your heater and cab. I gave you the result of my test on another post and they are very close to yours, and I have lots of heat. At least give it a tried, you have nothing to lose. Now that you have the heater hose in the right place, you shouldn't have to go back in there. Also, the temperature that the tech. guy gave you at jodale cab with the kubota, well 150 F. is almost the temp. of the engine. Could he have taken the test in the summer? I don't even get that from my car. 150 F is very hot. Just trying to help by giving you mho. I say go for it and find out how it turns out. ps. Don't forget, the heat coming out of the blower will differ depending of the speed of the fan. A slower speed will push hotter air than having it on high speed.

 

[2305JD]

Mario, I still say that your heating unit is now working fine. If you have a problem, it would have to be your thermostat. But I really think that every thing is working the way it is suppose to. You may have to add and extra water pump, but never the less, you can still finish installing your heater and cab. I gave you the result of my test on another post and they are very close to yours, and I have lots of heat. At least give it a tried, you have nothing to lose. Now that you have the heater hose in the right place, you shouldn't have to go back in there. Also, the temperature that the tech. guy gave you at jodale cab with the kubota, well 150 F. is almost the temp. of the engine. Could he have taken the test in the summer? I don't even get that from my car. 150 F is very hot. Just trying to help by giving you mho. I say go for it and find out how it turns out. ps. Don't forget, the heat coming out of the blower will differ depending of the speed of the fan. A slower speed will push hotter air than having it on high speed.

Henri,

Thanks for all the input. My entire test was with the fan on low (1st setting) to maximize the heat coming out. The Kubota test was last week in Manitoba where it was about 15 F the day he tested.

I am going to put the roof back on tomorrow night. I am still within warranty so I will probably check the thermostat out to confirm it is not stuck open. If so my local dealer will replace under warranty. Even if it's working properly, I only have a $1 gasket to lose so it's worth it.

I just want to rule out all options and maximize the heat before I get out in the cold storms that are coming.

I am hoping that by putting the roof back on and testing again it will maintain more heat in there. I keep hearing of all the cab owners that have to turn the heat down in their cabs and I just dont see that happening for me.

Trust me, I just want to get it done play in the snow.

Thanks Again,

Mario

 

[Henri88]

I certainly understand! Keep us posted.

 

[Labrat]

The JD radiator fans move a lot of air. Enough to cool the block when the engine isn't running under a moderate to heavy load. This amount of air flow is meant to keep them cool during the summer months when brush cutting or other heavy loads. Ultimately you may need to block part of the radiator during the winter to keep the coolant temp up so you get good heat.

 

[jenkinsph]

JD2305,
If you got the cab temperature to 88 F with the roof off of the cab you should be good to go. I would button it up and call it good, if you need it warmer than 65 F on the coldest days you may need to block off the radiator. For now though I wouldn't bother with anything else until I used it working for a few hours.

Don't know if you have one already but install a coolant heater that you can leave plugged in to cut down on the time it takes to warm up your cab.