3-Point Hitch John Deere 4300 Broken upper 3point hitch

[SandyTX]

Just wanted to say my first post; but have been reading for a few months now.

I've just acquired a 2001 John Deere 4300 tractor with 430 loader and shredder.

I got it for a great price.

Good
It runs great and the hydraulics work flawlessly.

Bad
Broken Hour meter (LCD Screen is shows nada)
And the upper 3 point hitch mount is broken off under the top adjustment pin.
The upper hole works fine; but the left side is broken off eliminating the lower 2 adjustment points.

Its fine now with my shredder; but I'm planning on buying a roto tiller and or other implements in the future and figure something which weighs more such as a plow may need a lower adjustment.

So my question is; can the cast (if it is cast) metal be welded or does it require a whole new rear end (I sure hope not).

Thank you for reading and enjoy the rest of the holiday (for most folks anyway).

I'll try to get a picture up soon of the damaged area.

Picture Below

Click Here

What I'm worried with is if I hook up to a 500lb plower or tiller; it may break the 3point hookup.

 

[JB4310]

Welcome to TBN

It's a good question,
I'm not sure of the right answer but I would try and repair it first, be worth it to bring to a weld shop and ask them what could be done.

Since you got the machine for a good deal You have some buffer there to take on a little more expense.

I would make it work for me one way or another

 

[beenthere]

Add the hyd. top arm ram and get the best of both worlds.
Prolly less expensive and less headache.

 

[kebo]

Welcome to TBN. Can you post a picture of the broken top link mounting point?? I'm just wondering how much metal is left on the one side that is broken?? As for repairing it with a weld, if can be done but you would obviously have to have a new "bracket" machined (unless you have the broken piece handy). If you followed Dave's rebuilding of the rental JD 430 in the Parts/Repairs forum, he had a similar issue. There were some broken castings on the rear end housing and he had them rewelded, but not just anyone can do it properly. You might go back through all the pages of it and see if you can find the posts where he dealt with rewelding them, he had some good info there. Or maybe try and contact him for more advice? Good luck with it.

 

[kennyd]

Another welcome to TBN

What part is broken? If it's #21 JDParts list's it for $470.00! Really need to see a picture to help you more...

 

[SandyTX]

Thank for all the great info so far everyone.
I've updated my original post with a picture.

 

[kennyd]

Thank for all the great info so far everyone.
I've updated my original post with a picture.

I assume you have the piece? It is possible a shop could weld it, definitely NOT a DIY type job. You will still have to remove it and that's not easy either.

If I was going to go through the trouble of removing it-I think I would just replace it. If you got a great deal as you say than suck it up...There is a great chance the weld will fail and you would be replacing it again...I would rather do it once.

 

[SandyTX]

The thing is; I do not have the broken part. I bought the tractor as is.

I'm leaning towards getting the part from the dealer and having it put on.

I'm guessing if the part is a $470 part; then itll prob be a $1000 service cost to put it in.

So would a machine part welding on be good enough for a 600lb disc or tiller/plow? Or would my best bet just to have a new one ordered and put in at the dealer?

I guess I have 3 choices.

1) Do nothing (till it breaks and then fix it)(use the top mount as it is now)
2) Have a part made and welded
3) Get a new part

 

[jenkinsph]

The problem with the repair route is you need someone proficient with cast iron to make the repair. In the past I have had welding repairs like this done to the lower links on an old Farmall, and the repair did last. This isn't for an average welder Joe, though. When you factor in the costs for this repair and recognize that the problem may reappear and further it detracts from the value of a future sale, then it may make more sense to just bite the bullet and change out the entire top housing.

I think you would be much happier knowing the problem is resolved and the top link is restored to new.

 

[kennyd]

I guess I have 3 choices.

1) Do nothing (till it breaks and then fix it)(use the top mount as it is now)
2) Have a part made and welded
3) Get a new part

I would stay with #1 for a while...#2 will cost close to the price of #3 since you don't have the broken part.

Save up for the new part, and do the repair yourself maybe next winter when you don't need the machine as much. You can buy the FSM (factory service manual) on CD for under $100 and it would be priceless to help with this repair.