OLD FARMER
New member
ONE THING I HAVE TRIED WITH HARD STARTING ENGINES IS TO SPRAY FOGGING OIL INSTEAD OF STARTING FLUID INTO THE INTAKE, LESS HARMFUL TO MOTOR AND IT DOES WORK.
Backhoe Older John Deere backhoe Hard Starting Question.... Please
- Thread starter Dusty1
- Start date
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Dusty1
Silver Member
The tractor has a fitting on the intake made specifically for starting fluid so that's where it goes, I have rigged up a straw to get in there from the driver's seat. I read from someone on the forum that they use WD-40 because it has a lower flash-point so it dosen't hurt the valves, but I might as well been spraying iced-tea in there from the results I got. My feeling is if it was made for starting fluid, and has been getting it for years, that's what I will give it.
Anyway, kenny, I saw the pic of the injector pump you included, but didn't see where the return line was that returns to the tank, which line were you talking about? These old commercial tractors are made to put the hours on, so I really don't think 3000 was that many, especially if it is 36 years old, but I tell you what, it's not nearly as fragile as half the new tractors out there.
Finally, no one mentioned adjusting the valves. Now I have done plenty of valve adjustments on gas engines, and I assume it's just as easy or easier on tractors, anyone have any experience with this?
THANKS ALL!
Anyway, kenny, I saw the pic of the injector pump you included, but didn't see where the return line was that returns to the tank, which line were you talking about? These old commercial tractors are made to put the hours on, so I really don't think 3000 was that many, especially if it is 36 years old, but I tell you what, it's not nearly as fragile as half the new tractors out there.
Finally, no one mentioned adjusting the valves. Now I have done plenty of valve adjustments on gas engines, and I assume it's just as easy or easier on tractors, anyone have any experience with this?
THANKS ALL!
AKfish
Super Member
- Joined
- Oct 1, 2004
- Messages
- 5,417
- Location
- Alaska
- Tractor
- JD 5115M; JD 110 TLB; JD 4720; Ford 9N; JD X300R
I figured the Hr meter was kaput... So, those are the actual hours??? For a commercial machine (that's 36 years old) that seems like BAD math!!
About 10 years ago, a local guy installed a new septic system for us. He had a 410. Big, stout Beast! Had the enclosed cab -- but, it wasn't much like the current cabs -- at all! It was made with real iron! Sides were likely 1/8" steel.
I've done a few valve adjustments -- not on my tractor, though. I'd figure the hardest part on that 410 would be to hand-turn the engine... after you dismantled that front radiator shroud around the crankshaft. (Jumpin' the starter never worked real well for me.)
AKfish
kennyd
Advertiser
I said "usually" drains to the tank...in your case it looks like it returns to the IP through tube #8.
I am willing to bet this is where your problem is...either one of the hoses is cracked/dry rotted, or one of the caps is cracked. All the symptoms you posted is exactly what my 92' F250 w/7.3L engine does when the returns leak...
OP
Dusty1
Silver Member
So kenny, how hard are those caps to replace?
dcyrilc
Super Member
What does the inside of the fuel tank look like? I used to use an old Case backhoe which had problems starting when it was cold. The inside of the tank was rusted and fine rust particles would get through the filter and clog the injectors. When we tore it apart to look at a rebuild, we found it still had the honing marks in the cylinders. The whole problem ended up being the injectors. After we fixed the injectors it ran like it was new. After about two years it began having problems again due to the rusted tank.
kennyd
Advertiser
On my Ford/IH engine they are not...not really sure in your case.
OP
Dusty1
Silver Member
Thanks guys for all the info, I will be looking into this very soon. I'll let you know when I find the culprit, but I need to use the tractor now that it's nice out before I can tear it apart!
-Dusty
-Dusty