Fixing Startup Problems with JD 5220, 5320, 5420, 5520

[Kyle_in_Tex]

Tank is full. Cleaned primer. I can take the fuel line off going into the injectors and diesel is flowing. I can put the line back on and remove the bleeding screw and the line off the top of the injectors, as the manual shows, and no fuel is escaping.

Is your fuel line still the original? They are bad about cracking and losing prime. You have to drop the tank down a bit with a jack and you can tie a new line to your old one to "fish" it through the frame.

 

[JD5210]

The attached file is from the tech. manual for the 5X10. You will need to validate for your tractor. I do think it will be a close match, I hope this helps.

If I understand you correctly you are not getting any fuel from leak-off line on top of the injection pump, when the bleeding screw the one on the injection pump is open. But you are with the tractor OFF, getting fuel coming out on the high pressure lines on the back of the injection pump.

Have you tired bleeding it at the injectors? Or see if you are getting any fuel out of the return line at the tank?

 

[mholloway9]

Can you tell me how to bleed the injectors? Can you explain what you meant by "with the tractor off"?

 

[JD5210]

Sorry about the stars, I have no idea what happened. It did again. Here is another word 5320.

On the bleeding the injectors, must admit I have never needed to do it. Here is a pdf to take a look at. Maybe another member will provide input.

http://extension.usu.edu/files/publications/factsheet/fm-01.pdf

 

[Kyle_in_Tex]

Can you tell me how to bleed the injectors? Can you explain what you meant by "with the tractor off"?

Look at the deere link above to the manual, do all these things. I was told to pump and hold down the throttle pedal while cranking. Eventually it started. Need a good battery.

 

[FenderBender711]

You need to read this guy's post. It helped me the most. You may have multiple failures as I did.

First, go and check the fuel lines. I had a problem on both lines being cracked and basically i could not keep a prime. Are they cracked? If they are original, just go ahead and replace them regardless. Are you getting a good flow from the fuel tank to the fuel filter area?

If you are pumping the primer bulb and you are NOT getting a good flow at the first bleed point, then there is no need to work your way down the line. You need to solve it from that point back.

There may or may not be a back flow valve and filter on the line going to the fuel filter. If you have these, you need to check and make sure they are working properly. I had neither which added to my problems.
http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/...176399-fixing-startup-problems-jd-5220-a.html

 

[DK_Farms]

I have a 2006 model 5525 that has the same startup problem. After 2 years, I gave up on the dealer. They had no clue. I have learned that if the tractor sits up for more than a week without starting, which it rarely goes that long, I just pump the primer before I get in the cab. Works most of the time. I have the inline check valve, in fact, I have 2 of them. The dealer suggested I install one. One day while changing the hydraulic filter, I noticed the factory had installed one just ahead of the small inline fuel filter. Was there all along, I just never noticed it. I've thought several times about changing the fuel line and putting the inline filter and check valve in a more convenient place for servicing as well. JD didn't fix the low temperature sensor problem with this newer model line either. Mine went out, blowing the fuse in the process. Dealer's fix for that problem is to just leave it disconnected since it never gets cold enough down here to serve its intended purpose. I changed it anyway, since I'm paranoid about driving around with broke parts on my tractor. I know two 6000 series owners that have the switch problem on their tractors as well. That model line uses the same engine block. Just a sub-standard part apparently. Might tackle the fuel line swap before spring. Just wanted alll you 5x20 owners to know that the problem followed into the 5x25 line, we feel your pain and frustration.

 

[MaoTennessee]

I was no expert until I had this problem and now I feel as bough I know my tractor's fuel system as well as most mechanics. Not really, but I sure learned a lot and I credit his site.

I would suggest you inspect you primer pump and completely disassemble and clean it. I found this as one of my problems. I had some slime growing in it and prior to. Leaning, it was not effectively pumping fuel. Also, you need to fill up your tank with fuel and don't rely on your gauge. I did and found that it was broken during this process. Without a lot of fuel, you do not get the pressure you need for a good gravity feed. Lastly, you need to bleed at the injector as well as the pump. If you getting a steady and I mean steady stream at his point then you can feel pretty good that fuel is at the injectors.

You definitely need to check your fuses and if the solenoid one is blown, you probably have a bad. Old weather start sensor.

There is a some good posts on this topic, so trying searching around if this does not help.

Hi, this is Michael from Tennessee. I followed the adive on this board and put in a fuel pump and changed the line... all of it did not help! It did not help and in fact the problem got worse! The part list for the fuel pump system was way over kill too! And so damned expensive... I cut it down to only the fule line and pump. The rest I got at Home Depot. I did not use the wiring device ($220 dollars! OMG!). It worked great for starting but it would not hold rpm! So I looked at the blue smoke coming out and found that the problem was AIR getting into the line at the fuel filter. The rubbler pump was full of crud and way to hard to pump... Instead of just replacing the pump with a kit... I put in a whole new fuel filter system. Easy... two large hex bolt and the in and out fuel line. The new unit pumped the fule from the tank with ease and then I bled the air by going to the other side of the tractor and opened the bleed bolt and pumped until fuel came out! That done, bolt tightened back... Roar! Zoom! Zoom! First Crank!

It gave me such much power that I can now get up our hill (.5 mile) in the higest gear (C and in 3rd!). LIfe is good again.

BTW... John Deere wanted $1200 to fix the problem! Not on you life! I found a great tractor guy over in Huntsville Alabama and he fixed it for $360! I'll now know how to do it myself if it happends again! His name is John Tuck 256-520-0101. He brought out two others guys, His son Richard and Marvin all for $75 bucks and hour!

Life is good again and I can get on with bushhogging the briar patches and plant my deer and turkey grass/seed for this Spings and Summer!

I too learned a ton about my fuel system and have found that the fuel system on the 5420 pumps 7 times the fuel needed at any on one time! It is rendered null if there is an air leak. So when putting in a fuel filter... grease the top and make sure you twist the 1/8 turn to seat the seal.

Whew! So good to get my tractor back!:thumbsup:

 

[jdtractor]

Hi I owned a JD 5320 2004 cab FEL 4x4> I never had any problems starting , It had over 800 hrs no problems . My problems were bad fuel (water) and not enough power . I changed filters regularly, but I still lacked the power I thought i needed. I called my dealer, and he said to add an electric inline fuel pump, the co. later installed them after so many complaints. My power complaint was whenI was bush hogging heavy filth, and pulling steep ground. I told him the problem they comminted by saying install the pump. I got one at autopart store and installed after inline fuel filter, which I mite add came on my tractor. I bought this tractor new in 04 so no add on for it xcept the inline pump. the dealer said the fuel system was gravity fed and steep work could effect power etc..... after installing the pump problem solved! other then lack of power b4 the pump install I ran the **** out of it , NEVER a PROBLEM.

 

[ClemBert]

Can you tell me how to bleed the injectors? Can you explain what you meant by "with the tractor off"?

From the fourth paragraph of the original post one can see:

"Refer to your owner's manual for the fuel system priming process. Note: the injection pump is self priming however you must loosen the bleed screw on the injection pump and force any air out of the system by operating the hand pump on top of the fuel filter assembly."

There should be no need to bleed the system through the injectors. Just loosen the bleed screw on the injection pump and operate the hand pump until fuel squirts out. Then tighten the bleed screw. Nothing more, nothing less. Do this with the "tractor off" meaning the tractor ignition is turned off.