3320 rear work light install problem

[hanson1999]

I am working on a 2005? (give or take a year) 3320. Was going to add some rear work lights. Went to look for the purple and black wires that are usually around the rops base, and cant find them. I have looked everywhere on the tractor.

I have done a 2008 3320, a 2009 2520, and a 2005 4720. They all had the purple and black wires that powered up with the light switch.

Anyone have any ideas? There is a fuse in the panel for "work lights". It was blown, so i replaced it and it popped again right away.

My dad has owned the tractor since new and i'm the only one who has done any mods to it. I have never messed with any of the wiring for the lights. Did all of the 3320's come with the wires i'm looking for??


Just a note for you guys adding lights....go to sloanexpress, they have the JW speaker lights which is what the JD ones are, for a very good price. 3x5 is the size. I then go on ebay and buy the HID conversion kits for around $40. i now have full HID lighting on every bulb of the tractors we have except for the rear of the 3320 i'm working on now....

 

[beenthere]

Stick a 12 v bulb on a test socket that you can plug into the fuse that is blowing. It will stay lit until you find the grounded hot wire (and that also may help you find the taped-up socket buried in the wiring harness).

I've soldered a 12v test bulb onto a couple #14 solid copper wires with hammered-flat spade-ends to shove into the slots where the fuse plugs into. Works great for finding shorts.

 

[hanson1999]

that sounds like a great idea....thanks!

 

[TCowner]

Hanson, thanks for the tip. I could have saved some money on my 3720 two months ago as I bought both the forward kit and two rear lights. I wired them separately rather than using the main headlight switch.

Do you recall which HID kit you got on ebay? Thanks,

 

[Craig Clayton]

The 12 volt lamp in series as a fuse controls the current in the lead that is shorting to the negative. In the electrical trade we do not use this method to trouble shoot.I would open up the harness and find the damaged spot repair it and then put the wiring back in wire loom.
Craig Clayton

 

[hanson1999]

Hanson, thanks for the tip. I could have saved some money on my 3720 two months ago as I bought both the forward kit and two rear lights. I wired them separately rather than using the main headlight switch.

Do you recall which HID kit you got on ebay? Thanks,

i buy the xentec brand. sold by orangemika. I've bought about 15 sets now and they work great. Had sets on grain cart tractors this fall and they stood up to the abuse they get.

I get the 6,000 temperature option. I read somewhere that the oem deere HID lights are around 5300?? So the 5,000 option would be fine as well, but i like them just a little on the blue side.

Tell them what style bulb you have and in a few days you will have HID lighting. I put them in the headlights on the 3320 and they work awesome!

 

[beenthere]

The 12 volt lamp in series as a fuse controls the current in the lead that is shorting to the negative. In the electrical trade we do not use this method to trouble shoot. I would open up the harness and find the damaged spot repair it and then put the wiring back in wire loom.
Craig Clayton

Craig
Why not use this method?
Is there any harm to the electrical system using this method to find a short?

I had a wire shorting out in an auto that no one could find. Then I put this 12v test light together and finally got it to go out when rubbing the headliner over the passenger side of the car. It was easy to see the light when poking and tugging on wires to find the short. Above the headliner was where a wire was found to be bare and grounding out (from the factory). Knew where to go after the short at that time and saved a lot of time and money.

 

[Craig Clayton]

As a electrician when I trouble shoot when a fuse blows on 120VAC or 575VAC the current is going to the other conductor in a uncontrolled manor. In trouble shooting a blown fuse means excess current. If you can isolate the device then you can reapply voltage and test for opens with the power on because is not blowing. All electricians now must work under a code called Z 462 which means no live work unless signed off as a last resort, you must be dressed when testing for voltage. It has made our work more thought based for troubleshooting.
In the 12VDC world of cars the blown fuse meant excess current went to the negative chassic. If you knew which device circuit was blowing the fuse a OHM meter would find the interminite contact with the chassic by touching and rubbing as you did.
In the higher voltages you would be arc flashed.
Craig Clayton

 

[hanson1999]

well found the problem....something simple of course....

The purple wire had turned blue. The two sides were run to the middle on top of the rockshaft housing and had been plugged into each other. both purples to both blacks....which is why i was blowing the fuse.

hooked up the lights and away we go!!

 

[jeffster]

Hanson, I posted earlier in a light thread about the same color issue. In one of the pics I posted, you can see where it was protected (still purple) versus exposed to the sun/UV (light blue).