Trailering JD 2320

   / Trailering JD 2320 #1  

Elklakedoug

Member
Joined
Jan 18, 2011
Messages
39
Tractor
John Deere 2320
My new 2320 with FEL- and advice about type, size and methodology of trailering and transporting?
 
   / Trailering JD 2320 #2  
16', dual axle, 7k rated, with brakes is the minimum to be safe. What are you towing with?
 
   / Trailering JD 2320 #3  
kennyd nailed it. I tow mine on a 16 ft double axle, brakes on one axle. I found one that is almost 80" between the side rails, making it easy to load with the 62D MMM on. With 16 feet in length, you can put the tractor on with the loader and rear blade and still have a little space to move to trim the weight distribution.

The catch (for me) is that I've got a Dakota with a 6 cylinder. With the trailer over 1500 lbs empty, I'm over 4000 lb total loaded and that's about the most you'd want to pull very far with a 6 cylinder.
 
   / Trailering JD 2320 #4  
Ya, don't forget to buy some real nice QUALITY heavy nylon tie down straps. I prefer them, as they allow the machine to wiggle and don't slam on it like chain binders do.

trailer will need tie-down locations in the correct areas too.
I added tie downs to my Featherlite car hauler, just where the tractor needs them.
 
   / Trailering JD 2320 #5  
Ya, don't forget to buy some real nice QUALITY heavy nylon tie down straps. I prefer them, as they allow the machine to wiggle and don't slam on it like chain binders do.

trailer will need tie-down locations in the correct areas too.
I added tie downs to my Featherlite car hauler, just where the tractor needs them.

Most small tractors need good tie down hardware too. I added front tiedowns to my 4520 to make it easy to trailer. I use chains on four corners for mine.
 
   / Trailering JD 2320 #6  
Ya, don't forget to buy some real nice QUALITY heavy nylon tie down straps. I prefer them, as they allow the machine to wiggle and don't slam on it like chain binders do.

trailer will need tie-down locations in the correct areas too.
I added tie downs to my Featherlite car hauler, just where the tractor needs them.

I would tend to think that if your tractor is "getting slammed on" by chains & binders, then you haven't properly secured the load. Nothing wrong with using straps if it's done properly just as there is nothing wrong with chains if done properly. However, I have never seen a chain get cut or fray.

Pretty obvious that I prefer chains, but like many things, it is a preference. There are pros & cons to both methods... just have to decide what works for you and the situation.

I must say that I almost never see a "non-professional" hauling a load such as a tractor that is anywhere near properly secured.
 
   / Trailering JD 2320 #7  
I know I am resurecting a really old thread. Give me credit as the new guy for reading back!
I prefer chains in the rear and straps in the front. Ther reason being that you can control how fast you take off but you may have to stop fast (with brakes or by hitting something) A tight chain in the rear makes me feel safer knowing that my load in not going to "run over me" and the straps in the front have some give in them to help insure that the rear chains stay tight. That's how I roll!
 
   / Trailering JD 2320 #8  
Well to continue the thread just a little further as I know nothing about trailer specs.
I have three questions concerning this particular Big Tex 45SS trailer.



1. Would this trailer be sufficient to haul my JD2520 compact tractor.
2. Do you think I could pull it with my 2005 Ford Sport Trac 4x4 or must I upgrade to a Ford F150 for example?
3. It looks like the trailer weighs 1400 lbs. and the GWVR is 4490 so I could haul 3090 lbs. max on the trailer?
 

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   / Trailering JD 2320 #9  
I would be comfortable towing my 2320 on that trailer. The key for me is that is does have brakes. As far as towing it with your sporttrac you are just going to have to run the numbers. Look up your specific vehicles towing capacity (engine, trans, rear end ratio, 2wd or 4wd all affect towing capacity so you have to look up your vehicle. Then you have to weigh your load. Hit the CAT scales at a truck stop or local dump or borrow pit (where they haul dirt) Anyone who gives you an answer without all of these facts is just guessing. Then you also have to consider how much and how far you tow and under what conditions. (flat rural towing you can get away with a lot but towing in downtown San Francisco you better have overkill on brakeing ability)
I just bought a trailer today for my 2320. I was going to buy pretty much that same trailer but no brakes because I tow rarly, I tow rural, and it's flat Florida and I tow with a dually and it can stop it. I ended up buying a 10K rated trailer with brakes on both axles because it was available used but nice for the same price.
 
   / Trailering JD 2320 #10  
The trailer looks to be adequate for your load. I don't know about the towing capabilities of your vehicle, however. One note, however. If your vehicle is close to the total weight restrictions for the given load - get the optional brake package for the trailer.

Especially if you'll be towing in high traffic locations or in areas with hills, curves, etc. The extra margin of stopping the load - safely - is worth every penny for those brakes!

AKfish
 
 
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