3720 with Curtis Snowplow

   / 3720 with Curtis Snowplow #1  

NYBOB

Silver Member
Joined
Feb 4, 2003
Messages
205
Location
Maine NY(Binghamton area)
Tractor
2007 JD 3720
I have a 3720 with a 300CX loader with a 6 1/2 foot Curtis snowplow connected by skid steer QA. I have a gravel driveway and at times the plow catches and rolls under. I have tried playing with the skid shoes but never seem to get it right. I try using the float of the loader and that helps but does not stop it all the time. Yesterday I noticed the springs were loose. How tight should they be? I love the plow except for this issue. Not being an experienced plow person, makes it more challenging.

Any advice would be appreciated.

Thanks
 
   / 3720 with Curtis Snowplow #2  
The "roll forward" is designed to protect from something breaking. Additional pair of springs will help, but you have to weigh the risk that something will break with that extra load.

Some have added a different edge to the blade, such as a hard plastic tube (pipe) so the blade cannot dig in and bite.

You may look at the angle the blade is with the ground. A pic from the side could help us make some recommendations. If the pitch is off, and the FEL arms not low enough, then you may be pushing the blade into the ground rather than along the ground.

Pics please.
 
   / 3720 with Curtis Snowplow
  • Thread Starter
#3  
The "roll forward" is designed to protect from something breaking. Additional pair of springs will help, but you have to weigh the risk that something will break with that extra load.

Some have added a different edge to the blade, such as a hard plastic tube (pipe) so the blade cannot dig in and bite.

You may look at the angle the blade is with the ground. A pic from the side could help us make some recommendations. If the pitch is off, and the FEL arms not low enough, then you may be pushing the blade into the ground rather than along the ground.

Pics please.

Thanks...I will get pictures ASAP. I will get two sets, one with the shoes all the way down as I have it now, versus the normal position I have them in. The pipe idea is an interesting one.
 
   / 3720 with Curtis Snowplow #4  
I have a 3720 with a 300CX loader with a 6 1/2 foot Curtis snowplow connected by skid steer QA. I have a gravel driveway and at times the plow catches and rolls under. I have tried playing with the skid shoes but never seem to get it right. I try using the float of the loader and that helps but does not stop it all the time. Yesterday I noticed the springs were loose. How tight should they be? I love the plow except for this issue. Not being an experienced plow person, makes it more challenging.

Any advice would be appreciated.

Thanks

How many springs does it have?

Typically you should be able to stick a card between the wraps of the springs. You do NOT want them to tight.
 
   / 3720 with Curtis Snowplow #5  
How many springs does it have?

Typically you should be able to stick a card between the wraps of the springs. You do NOT want them to tight.
I would also check the attack angle, especially it the blade in mounted on the loader arms. Per beenthere's statement pushing the blade into the ground I would assume to be a pretty common problem with loader mounted blades.
I will also add, especially with JD tractors where the loader arms are so short.
 
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   / 3720 with Curtis Snowplow #6  
I would also check the attack angle, especially it the blade in mounted on the loader arms. Per beenthere's statement pushing the blade into the ground I would assume to be a pretty common problem with loaded mounted blades.
I will also add, especially with JD tractors where the loader arms are so short.

It is just the nature of the Curtis beast. It has an agressive attack angle which is great in many applications but not so great on gravel.
 
   / 3720 with Curtis Snowplow
  • Thread Starter
#8  
Here are the pictures requested.....I hope they show what you need to see.
 

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   / 3720 with Curtis Snowplow #9  
Bob,
you have a lot of control from the seat of how aggressive
the blade is.
depending on how low your shoes are, you should be able to control
the angle of the blade with the curl function of your loader.
use the shoes as a pivot point, and by using the curl up or
down you can push that cutting edge down closer to or
into the dirt. (theoretically)
a soft base, not frozen, will wreak havoc no matter what you
do. we had warm days and inches of rain this past weekend before
our 2' of snow, so all the snow that fell in the early part of the storm
landed on warm wet ground and made it quite challenging for everybody
to move. it was basically slush at the ground with 2' of snow on top!
i would imagine you want the springs somewhat tight, so they need a bit
of pressure before the blade trips. but you really want the edge gliding along
just above the gravel so it doesn't, a tricky feat that will come with experience.

many blades have a lock feature that allows you to make the blade
rigid, like for dirt work, i can't remember off hand if the curtis has that
or not. you can look and see if there is a pin or holes for a pin that would
do that. keep in mind with it rigid, it's gonna bite, and bite hard if you do
end up into the gravel.

keep us posted on your progress, lots of good info here at TBN!

:D
 
   / 3720 with Curtis Snowplow
  • Thread Starter
#10  
The "roll forward" is designed to protect from something breaking. Additional pair of springs will help, but you have to weigh the risk that something will break with that extra load.

Some have added a different edge to the blade, such as a hard plastic tube (pipe) so the blade cannot dig in and bite.

You may look at the angle the blade is with the ground. A pic from the side could help us make some recommendations. If the pitch is off, and the FEL arms not low enough, then you may be pushing the blade into the ground rather than along the ground.

Pics please.

Are there any pictures available or instructions on how to mount a tube on the blade edge? I would like to see if that would work also.

Thanks
 
 
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